Barefoot Surf

Most beginner surfers don’t realize how much your head affects whether you catch the wave or not.

- While paddling for a wave, keep your back arched and your head up, almost like there’s a soccer ball tucked between your chin and your board.
- The nose of your surfboard should be slightly above the water (around 2 to 5 cm). This helps reduce drag and keeps your paddling smooth.

This is the moment where many surfers hesitate as the wave approaches and starts to lift your board…

- Stay committed and give a few more strong, deep paddle strokes.

Now here’s where your head comes into play…

- When you feel you’re about to match the wave’s speed, bring your head lower and closer to your board.
- This slight shift helps move your weight forward so your board sticks to the face of the wave and starts gliding down.
- The shift is subtle but powerful. Your head and shoulders carry weight. Use it to match the wave’s lift and avoid sliding off the back.
- Once you feel that you’re gliding on the wave, it’s time to pop up.
- Push your hands under your pectorals, arch your back again, and go for a clean, balanced takeoff.
- In early stages of learning, missing waves often come from poor head positioning.
- Too high or too low at the wrong time and the opportunity’s gone.

This one detail will make the difference between catching or missing the wave.

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