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Tracy Wan

@_tracywan

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writer, scent person, admirer of light.
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✨ Demi-exotic fruit report ✨ Siberian kiwis—also known as hardy kiwis, kiwi berries and, once, Chinese gooseberries. Spotted on the rare occasion in a clamshell at the grocery store, but otherwise it’s the luck of the draw at the farmers market. They don’t last long and ripen unpredictably, which makes them hard to commercialize. A shame; what a treat. Wait until they’re soft, then pop them like candy. Compared to their common cousins they’re touch sweeter and more tropical, ironically, reminiscent of a pineapple or a red berry. You can eat the skin on a fuzzy kiwi, of course, but doing it here yields far more delight, like getting away with a petty crime. by @_tracywan
Over dinner at @bar.eugenie I noted how lucky we were to live and eat in Toronto, our embarrassment of riches. The vectors of influence, the culinary talent, the bounty of southern Ontario. Shaken together it makes for some of the best food there is to be enjoyed, and I think Bar Eugenie is a great meeting point for all of these ideas. More on Substack. 🔗 where it is doomed to be. by @_tracywan
SUMMER’S SENSORY DELIGHTS Shrimp Louie @thefrederickto - what more could you want atop leaves? Snappy shrimp, tangy Thousand-Island-adjacent dressing, lettuce that crunches in your ear, the clemency of a chilled dish on a humid July evening. SUMMER’S SENSORY DELIGHTS Banana tart @rosebudto - graham crumb, custard body, brûlée crust, textures working overtime to honour the simplicity of a household fruit. SUMMER’S SENSORY DELIGHTS Mom’s peaches, rescued from the imminent devastation of hungry squirrels. Lactonic, perfumed, transcendent. Plucked from the branch with no resistance at all, like it was a gift just for me. SUMMER’S SENSORY DELIGHTS Swordfish and corn @affinityfish - The East coast’s prized fish dressed in katsu garb and nugget nostalgia. Corn kakiage, zesty ginger crisps, the high notes of calamansi. Traverse through the dimensions of flavour and find yourself a child again. SUMMER’S SENSORY DELIGHTS Cod @islandoysters - Ontario strawberries resurrected in a sweet and sour sauce, with blistered shishito peppers playing counterpoint. My favourite kind of cooking: take a familiar formula and replace the components with something that tethers you to a place. SUMMER’S SENSORY DELIGHTS Raspberry cream puff @alicemarie.ca - you think you know raspberries until you taste their tartness against the animalic musk of goat cream. If I were younger, this would have sent me down a hedonistic pursuit of pleasure, like Bourdain and his oyster. SUMMER’S SENSORY DELIGHTS Carrots @bar.eugenie - Tiny carrots belting a big song of land and sea: mussels escabeched in white wine, blackcurrants bringing depth and darkness, beautiful briny bites of agretti. If you find your world getting smaller, your prescription is this dish. SUMMER’S SENSORY DELIGHTS Hevsuruli @tiflisi.toronto - A wintery lamb stew lightened by a generous addition of mint, a new-to-me dish with flavours so familiar that I contemplated the possibility of past lives— SUMMER’S SENSORY DELIGHTS Tomato vanilla soft serve @onyxchocolates - the pinnacle of tomato season, topped with black garlic molasses and corn crumble. Let the savory be a sweet treat. Let the fruit be a fruit. SUMME by @_tracywan
At @chezmathilderestaurant in Tadoussac, I found myself thinking a lot about the instinct to preserve and how we protect what we cherish. It reminded me of what the Quebecois are so good at. 🔗 in bio, as always, and thank you @elainedicks for the recommendation 💙 by @_tracywan
a belated letter about a meal that fed me spiritually, and the creative processes on display @antyliatoronto. up on substack 🦐 by @_tracywan
You can’t change the way you were raised, but you can befriend your estranged sibling as an adult and meet them in a city you both love for an Alsatian white from Japan and a sticky toffee pancake by @_tracywan
Out of some misguided allegiance to objectivity, I try not to write about my friends—but I am making an exception to tell you about @ridetowander and the vision she’s bringing to life with the @yandiningroom team. (As you’ll see, it’s really about me.) Up on Substack now. Link where it always lives 🌷 by @_tracywan
Not one to order the same thing twice but the exception is the pez dorado plate (in a white wine + caper butter sauce) at @labellamanagua, every single time, with a glass of cantaloupe orange juice. A perfect meal. Thank you for feeding me for a decade. by @_tracywan
Start warming your bones: - Couscous Royale from the homey @rayahcafe, serving French pastries and Moroccan tajines - Chopped goat roti from @fusionkitchen.danforth, a crescendo of aromatics and heat - Seared cabbage with smoked maitake and sunchoke puree @thewoodowlto, where eating your vegetables is never a concession - Steak with Café de Paris butter and parsnips @bar.eugenie, a wonderful marriage of umami and earth - Grilled pork rice at @comnuocto, as good as a weekday lunch on the east end can get - Laksa @agakagakcanada, radiant spices and layers of shrimp on shrimp by @_tracywan
Scent as story. Tracy Wan’s WHAT WE LEAVE IN OUR WAKE was featured in PW this week - a memoir told through jasmine, cold pizza, honeysuckle, and every memory that made a life. Photo credit: Vai Yu Law Tracy is represented by Amanda Orozco and Noelle Falcis Math. Congratulations, Tracy! by @_tracywan
Deal News - Tracy Wan’s WHAT WE LEAVE IN OUR WAKE! Scent consultant and creator of PerfumeTok’s ‘Invisible Stories’ Tracy Wan’s WHAT WE LEAVE IN OUR WAKE, a memoir in scent that tells the stories of her childhood in China (jasmine, stinky tofu) and coming of age in Mississippi and Quebec City (cold pizza, honeysuckle) in chapters that fuse the science of olfaction with the powerful emotions evoked by smells—capturing their inextricable connection to love, loss, and how we become who we are, to Joy de Menil at Avid Reader Press, by Amanda Orozco and Noelle Falcis Math at Transatlantic Literary Agency (world English) Photo credit: Vai Yu Law Tracy is represented by Amanda Orozco and Noelle Falcis Math. Congratulations, Tracy! by @_tracywan
Wrote about a litany of places I feel immensely lucky to have visited in Marseille: a “restaurant solidaire” that focuses on preventing food insecurity and waste, a shapeshifting wine bar with a roster of fine dining chefs, an audiophile’s dream with impeccable snacks, a classic institution that feels like a living room, and a restaurant set in a staircase that reinvents itself every night. Oh, and France’s last grape juice station. Merci pour votre accueil. 🙏🏻 🔗 in bio / up on Substack by @_tracywan

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