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Olivia Tong 童心

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Posted On: July 1st 2024, 07:58 pm
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Dressing in the 1850s included many steps. In this video you see a young Widow preparing for the day by dressing in full mourning. For the first year and a day a widow would dress in all black and when leaving the house she would wear a heavy veil that covered her tear stained face. When the first year and a day was over she would be able to transition into half mourning for three to sixth months. In this stage you would see muted colors added to the wardrobe including grey, a white collar, or mauve. The veil would shorten and gold and jet jewelry was permissible The third and final stage of mourning had no time restraints. Half-quarter mourning allowed the color black to be removed completely (if the wearer felt it was necessary). Lavender and different shades of purple were permissible and embroidery was finally allowed. Many widows never transitioned out of the color black as demonstrated by Queen Victoria who remained in mourning for her husband from 1861 until her death in 1901. As with life the stages of mourning was meant to symbolize the heavy weight of grief and the transition of how grief could become manageable over time. By contrast men mourning their wives were expected to wear a black armband and black hat and for 3-6 months (there are conflicting reports some sources say 12 months). For more information on this fascinating subject please read Mourning Dress – A Costume and Social History, London: George Allen and Unwin (1983) by Lou Taylor.  
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