chanel_archives

Seeing the final look on the runway is one thing, but looking at the savoir-faire (French for ‘know-how’) is a whole other way of understanding exactly how the garment has been constructed from inside out. So I’m gonna be looking at 5 different looks from the last couture collection, with a rough step-by-step with the unseen details, and fabric specifications that we miss from a regular runway photo (the photo for this runway look is on slide 5).

First is Look 53, the black jacket and matching pleated skirt. At first glance it looks just like a check motif but it’s actually all done through beading. Specifically, black circular beads reminiscent of black caviar… the caviar referencing actually remind me of Look 43 from the last Spring couture collection, the yellow chiffon shirt/skirt set that had the same black caviar beading.

But this suit is in the same spirit of Look 55, the gold suit which I previously filmed/highlighted, inspired by the magpie and the tale of its attraction to shiny objects, but also “bric-a-brac” which is the term for basically a collection of random trinkets, tchotchkes etc but in this context random jewellery/chains/charms.

Then the skirt, pleated with a mousseline lining, also has trim that has been embellished with gold chains and charms to resemble a belt, and is actually inspired by a reinvention of the classic suit, with punk accents with the bric-a-brac accents, there’s even a XL safety pin if you look closely, but this is done to sell the illusion of a belt and the collar ‘necklace’, kind of like a Trompe-l’œil effect. I had to include this first though, it’s one of my favourites when it comes down to the looks that Matthieu added his own spin to the house codes and classic silhouettes, whilst adding something completely fresh.

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