Posted On: July 21st 2026, 01:58 am
'Hoppatee'
My first send on the mainwall in the leadhall
@nationalclimbingcenter :]
About this route: It's such a cool route. Really comp style with relatively good holds. For me it was all about dialing in the moves to safe as much energy as possible. 1st go: footslip just before the headwall. 2nd go: Too pumped, 2 moves short of the top. 3rd go: sendtime! Bcs it are all moves which require a lot of movement on pretty good holds, I feel like it's by far the easiest route on this wall. Certainly, when comparing it to the very physical, endless overhanging, no rest routes next to this one. Ngl, I'm liking so many routes in this hall.
Quite happy with my progress on lead, for example my fastening my pacing, being more confident (on my first go) and ofc the (power) endurance. A nice milestone so far is noticing ur able to do a route as warmup, which you had to project (do with 3 blocks) 2 months ago (sorry if I'm flexing too much, just quite happy about it 🙃)
It's 'funny' that I'm often only falling bcs of fatigue/pump (which sounds logic ofc), however there aren't that many moves I'm unable to do bcs they're too hard. Besides, what I've noticed on the 'comp' routes is that they're really power endurance demanding, compared to the old school pumpy routes. As in, I'm not really falling bcs of the pump, but due to just being too tired to make the next physical move work; Weirdly, resulting in not being too pumped when back on the ground. Nevertheless, I'm really enjoying them. Will keep doing exposure therapy on lead, hope it keeps working :]
Sidenote: I've really been thinking about what suitable bouldergrades could be for crux parts of certain level routes. However, I'm just not getting any closer to an conclusion, any thoughts? 😅
Thanks for belaying 🧗♀️
@helyjuno and recording 🎥
@anniek.achterberg @allezbouldering