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Andy James

@andywine2021

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Literature professor and wine writer. Enjoying wine, food and the stories behind the wine. My book on Bandol wine is now in paperback at half price.

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Francesco Clerico Barolo Bussia 2020. Paired with Chinese-style chicken pieces and tofu, salmon and cream cheese on toast, and roasted thyme and garlic potatoes.
Continuing a theme drawn from my last two posts, Francesco Clerico was the first organic producer in Bussia back in the 1990s. Bussia is famous among Barolo lovers as being one of the first crus to appear on wine labels back in the 1960s. The wines are powerful but the tannins are typically fine, leading to earlier drinking windows.
Aging for this wine takes place in French oak for 24-30 months followed by two years in the bottle. Francesco passed away in 2020, the year when these grapes were harvested and his wife and children have entrusted the vineyards to Ceretto. You could call this bottle the end of an era, or perhaps the beginning of another.
Highly floral with violets and roses leading the way, followed by stewed strawberries, raspberries, and cherry stone. There are different styles of Barolo, but in my brief association with this one it seemed to cover a lot of bases. Floral, deeply fruity, with lots of spice underpinning the flavors. Tobacco and tar emerging as time passed, making it seem more like a dad’s Barolo at the end. Open now, in accord with the reputation of the 2020s, but undoubtedly will age beautifully as the acidity is quite high while the tannins are fine and plentiful. A really lovely wine from an organic pioneer.
Of course Radiohead’s High and Dry is the perfect accompaniment for a wine grown at some altitude that has a tannic punch. Don’t you agree? Cheers and happy weekend!

#cerettowinery #bussia #monfortesalba #barolo #riedelwineglass by @andywine2021

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Stefano Lubiana Pinot Noir 2022. A Tasmanian biodynamic wine.
Smoke, cherry stone, raspberry, pomegranate, thyme, and a hint of new leather in the nose, though it is quite full bodied with medium-low acidity. I had prepared marinated chicken pieces cooked and cooled to room temperature, tuna with onion, and scallops with diced vegetables and chervil, along with the obligatory mozzarella tomato slices because we have too much basil in our balcony garden.
By the way, Tasmanian Pinot does go well with raw fish, though the data sample is limited to one dinner. This wine was succulent and lip-smackingly good with a sturdy backbone and suggestions that the alcohol is a notch higher than the 13% ABV on the label. Easy to drink now but surely savoriness will emerge as it ages.
The winery’s story is also interesting. Steve and Monique Lubiana found a site they liked 20 km north of Hobart in 1991 and planted it with Pinot Noir. Other varieties have been planted since. They have been certified biodynamic since 2010 and - though it defies thought - this is still the only biodynamic winery in Tasmania. A testament to how difficult it is to do biodynamic viticulture in cool, wetter regions.
I have had some watery and forgettable quaffing Pinots from Tasmania, and was glad this one lived up to its billing and price tag ($80 Australian). A wine with heart, power, and excellent freshness that can hold its own against the better Pinots around the world.

#stefanolubianawinery #tasmaniawine #pinotnoir #riedelwineglass #australianwine by @andywine2021

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Les Clos Perdus Prioundo 2018. From Corbières, 80% Grenache and 20% Cinsault. Vines over 40 years old in 3 enclosed parcels totaling 1.5 hectares. Destemmed but not crushed, with 20% as whole bunch, they undergo a 3 day soak. After fermentation they rest for about 21 days on the skins, then are racked and left on the lees in stainless steel for 9 months.
Deep ruby with aromas of black cherry, rosemary, and garrigue. Lots of spice in the nose and on the palate, with ginger, cinnamon and a persistent evergreen note even though the wine isn’t aged in oak. Big at 14.5% ABV, but fresh, judiciously weighted, and a sheer pleasure to drink.
The story of Les Clos Perdus is quite interesting. Paul Old was a professional ballet dancer for 20 years, most notably with the Australian Ballet. At 37 he retired from dancing to pursue another passion: wine. After studying to be a winemaker in Australia, he became Intrigued by the potential of old vines in Corbières, which were being pulled out at an alarming rate. He started with 1.5 hectares in 2003, and now has 20 hectares in all. He attributes the freshness and longevity of this wine to the magic of old vines farmed according to biodynamic principles. Extended lees and solids contact also encourage some autolysis. Great to see projects like Paul’s preserving Corbières’ viticultural heritage while making excellent wine.
Wishing everyone a very happy weekend. Hoping you have something nice in your glass. Cheers!

#lesclosperdus #paulold #corbieres #oldvines #biodynamicwine by @andywine2021

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Arnaud Lambert Brézé Midi Saumur 2023. Served with salmon steaks.
Yves Lambert started this domaine in Saumur in 1996 and his son Arnaud joined in 2005. In 2009 the domaine shifted to an organic approach at the same time as acquiring Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc vines in the commune of Brézé. In 2018 they became biodynamic. A brief history of a producer committed to quality.
Initial notes of lemon, grapefruit, and pear with a hint of the creaminess to come once you take a sip. Excellent grip with peach and almond flavors, plus acidity, tension but also a chewy roundness, and a dry, lemony finish. Lovely wine at a very nice price. Drink more Chenin Blanc!

#domainearnaudlambert #cheninblanc #vindesaumur #loirevalleywine #winepairing by @andywine2021

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14 days ago

Justin Wine Paso Robles Isoceles 2021. 86/7/7 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot. Aged almost 2 years in new oak.
They say that you need a wine with oomph to stand up to new oak. Perhaps we’ve found one. Blackcurrant, roasted plum, licorice, graphite, and plenty of pipe tobacco in this Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wine from California. A seductive perfume that is partly due to this monster of a glass from Riedel. I’ve never had success with it before as wines get lost in it, but not this 15.5% ABV beauty. Absolutely fantastic with great freshness. A spicy initial attack yet savory, which was surprising because of the richness of the fruit. Like a silky Argentine Malbec with a long, smooth mint-inflected aftertaste. One of the wines of the year so far. Fantastic.

#pasorobleswine #justinwine #cabernetsauvignon #cabernetfranc #merlot by @andywine2021

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Kir-Yianni Diaporos Single Block Xinomavro 2019. 87/13 Xinomavro and Syrah, aged 18 months in oak from the Naoussa appellation in Macedonia, Greece.
Aromas of olives, and pine needles in a decidedly medicinal start until cacao, hay, red licorice, and plums join the party. Medium acidity, plentiful but fine tannins, 14% ABV punch, elegance and complexity … a description befitting Barolo and this bottle could pass for one.
I hope the proportion of high-end wines coming out of Greece increases. I welcome quality niche single-vineyard offerings at higher prices. It costs money to produce these beauties, but don’t you love wines that make you dream a little? This one does and is recommended.

#kiryianni #xinomavro #naoussawine #greekwine #barolo by @andywine2021

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20 days ago

Burn Cottage Moonlight Race 2022 from Central Otago, NZ, A Pinot Noir blend of three vineyards. The slightly muddy medium ruby suggests that it is unfiltered. In fact, Burn Cottage is a biodynamic enterprise that has garnered plenty of critical acclaim. This wine is aged 11 months in French oak, only 20% of which is new.
In 2002 Burn Cottage was purchased by the Sauvage family from Chicago. Marquis Sauvage was a wine bar owner in Colorado and he comes from a family of farmers in Kansas. The Sauvages were determined to follow biodynamic principles from the beginning, something unheard of in Central Otago 25 years ago. Burn Cottage is truly a place devoted to biodiversity, with 10 hectares of vineyards and 20 devoted to cattle to supply the manure for biodynamics, along with bees, olive trees, and native species of New Zealand plants, bushes and trees.
And how does the wine taste? Full of life and energy. It opens with tart hibiscus and elegant rose, black cherry, red plum, bramble, and smoke reflecting a deep mineral vein. The region’s generally sunny climate contributes sweet, concentrated aromas and flavors while it preserves a tangy, tart element that I associate with Kiwi Pinot. A wine with that magical lift and balance made in harmony with nature.

#burncottagevineyard #centralotagowine #pinotnoir #newzealandwine #winepairing by @andywine2021

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Srebrna Gora Cuvée Rouge 2023. A casual blend of Regent, Cabernet Cortis and Rondo made in the Krakow area and enjoyed in Warsaw. All varieties that we don’t normally see but in cold areas.
Red currants, raspberries, a little asparagus in a green note verging on mint. Refreshing, quaffable, spritzy: a Polish version of generic Beaujolais. Not bad when sold at half the price I paid …
Fortunately, the food was better. The steak and salmon in a mango sauce were very nice, though we weren’t happy with the waiter’s sleight of hand. We ordered from the menu a Polish wine from a different producer of higher quality. In fact, it was the only red on the menu.
He brought the one we ended up drinking.
First, I pointed out that the name and the label were different and he countered with: they are the same - cuvée rouge. That part was true. Both had the name cuvée rouge affixed to the label. Since there was no other Polish red choice, I decided not to make a scene and accepted the wine while wondering how many other customers have pointed out the difference and been told, ‘you ordered cuvée rouge and here it is. Look! The same.’
This post has turned into a rant of sorts. Apologies. We should always, always, sample the local wines but I do not advocate the ripping off of tourists. Presumably the locals know better … Happy weekend!

#polishwine #visitwarsaw #rarewinevarieties #wineandsteak #winetourism by @andywine2021

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Piwnice Poltorak Pinot Noir 2022. 12% ABV. Served with duck breast.
While staying in Rzeszów, I’ve been keen to try Polish wines. This one is a winner. The winery is located close to the village of Witryłów on the San River in southern Poland, about 60 km south of Rzeszów. 15 years ago 10 hectares of vines were planted atop a hill in a microclimate that benefits from warm southern air masses. Awarded Poland’s best winery by Forbes magazine in 2024, Piwnice Poltorak’s lineup of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and hybrids like Solaris and Regent is also offered on Polish Airlines business class.
Reminiscent of a smoky, savory Marlborough Pinot Noir, the expressive bouquet showed dried rose petals, sour cherry, cranberry, mint, and bacon fat. Lots of umami amid the bright red fruit, medium acidity, surprisingly grippy tannins, and a short finish that will surely lengthen as the vines age. The 2022 was the winery’s 4th Pinot vintage. Perfect with duck breast in beet sauce.
Cheers to wine discoveries!

#piwnicepoltorak #polishwine #rzeszow #pinotnoir #winepairing by @andywine2021

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