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Annotated That

@annotatedthat

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Notes on fashion, architecture, photography and people behind it all

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For @commedesgarcons SS/27 Rei Kawakubo has let the royals out on the runway. Each model had spiked golden hair topped with big white crowns. Each silhouette showed Kawakubo’s mastery at constructing exaggerated forms. Some looked slashed with red ruffles coming out which could reference the doom of royals during the French Revolution. Look 10 featured red and gold brocade peaking in between the cut seams which was used it gowns but also furniture of royals. Look 15 was in the shape similar to a violin, the music of which was probably played in many royal palaces. Many designs had golden tassels attached in different places which reminded of curtain tassels. One of the last looks resembled the human torso. Red polka dot fabric was wrapped in white rib cage with spine in the centre. Colour wise, one look was made in full royal blue fabric. On another non royal note, a few pieces reminded the shape of Kawakubo’s big hats from previous Homme Plus collection. The second part of the show saw four looks in denim and instead of crowns models were wearing golden headpieces made out of multiple wigs. Kawakubo managed to showcase a collection themed in royalty without doing gowns or overly decorated pieces instead she interpreted it in her own universe. by @annotatedthat

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14 days ago

@noirkeininomiya felt like an otherworldly magical garden where flowers took over everything. The first two looks came with chandeliers of pearl strings. Models walked with flowers in their mouths which highlighted Ninomiya’s petal rebellion. Lilies were wrapped around models looking like coils. Playing cards were used to create skirts. The cards symbols structures came as a dress and torso piece which wrapped around the model. Colourful clouds came down the runway looking as if the flowers in the model’s mouths were growing out of them. Butterfly wings were flapping on the shoulders of a biker jacket. One model with their arms crossed holding two bouquets was encased in exoskeletal flower structure looking like the ornamental paper in which bouquets of flowers are usually given. The last two looks literally were the over the top bouquets. Rubber wrapped around flowers blooming from the bottom or the top. The collection was dark and could feel a bit eerie with the soundtrack but it definitely was beautiful and full of meticulous craftsmanship. by @annotatedthat

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14 days ago

@junyawatanabe collection titled Funky was split into two parts. The collection felt like a mix of his two previous ones, The Art of Assemblage womenswear where couture looks made of familiar objects associated with his designs paraded the runway and the most recent one the Bling menswear where Watanabe challenged the norm of modern jewellery which got restricted to functional watches, cufflinks, bracelet here and maybe a necklace there. First phase focused on the body as a blueprint and the runway itself became satirical in glamorous and performative way. With Chaka Khan’s “Like Sugar” playing, models walked with an exaggerated attitude - posing, touching their hair, winking and blowing kisses to the audience. The movement direction of @pat_boguslawski combined with @ciara appearing made the audience cheer and scream. Cat suits and heels became the blueprint on which Watanabe played with recognisable objects and clothes. Punk spikes bursted out of breastplate, bra and shorts. Mirror and crystal chains became dresses. Bicycle like frame wrapped the torso. Zippers took over the leather jackets. Tweed jackets had structured pearls fused into them, playing on the Chanel costume. Lights went out and smoke started appearing. Second phase felt like a take on an old style couture runway. To Michael Jackson’s “I just can’t stop loving you” models walked slowly. The corset foundation of a gown was wrapped in tulle and enlarged. Boning got exposed. Skirts doubled. Punk spikes remained. Studded silver gloves reminded heavily of the Michael Jackson’s rhinestone glove. The whole collection and performance was fresh and fun. by @annotatedthat

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14 days ago

Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2027 Womenswear STONE

Similarly to the previous menswear collection which was also titled “Stone” carries three contrasting implications for Owens: an expression of elegant stoicism, a metaphor for transcendent release inspired by the stone thrown aside during Christ’s resurrection, and a personal protest against the all-too-common stone throwing of societal judgment and intolerance. This ethos of defying judgmental condemnation was highlighted by the use of pentagram motifs, which Owens employs not to demonize otherness, but as magic symbols to encourage an open heart.

From shipping strap webbing turned into heavy double-duchesse gowns to 45 hour Millefoglie jackets built from 200 meters of tulle, the collection was a study in contrasts. Owens took the tensegrity structures from his recent menswear show and translated them from leather and latex into sheer tulle.

Anchored by Kojima sulfur-dyed denim, Solofra wax-pressed leathers, and a strong soundtrack by Sissy Misfit, Owens proved once again that true elegance is resilient.

#rickowensonline #rickowens by @annotatedthat

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14 days ago

Bryn Taubensee and Patric DiCaprio, the designers of Vaquera made another incredibly fun collections, drawing inspiration from 1920’s and 30’s. It started with 5 spiked hair models in voluminous white looks. Then we got reworked, stylized military “uniforms” take a fitted jacket with a furled collar worn with jodhpurs. After the subverted service uniforms stepped out. Cheeky versions of a chef in a bubble shaped romper and toque and a French maid in a black satin playsuit and organza apron. The girls came out chewing gum with cigarette holders and finger cut gloves. At the end 5 models (the same that opened the show) walked in the same voluminous silhouettes but this time in highlighter neon colors. by @annotatedthat

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17 days ago

When do we feel glamorous? That’s the question that Julian Klausner asked while starting to work on Dries Van Notes SS/27 Women’s collection. The designer said the desire of wanting to look glamorous, done up just for ourselves is charming and we have all probably tried to do a bit of a dress up in front of a mirror whenever we felt like it. When we put on these out of usual looks we discover our new personas, roles.

Thinking about glamour led Klausner to movies. Imagining “films that don’t exist” and translating their pulpy poster onto the garments. Titles like Lacquer and Lace and Vipère were printed across viscose trenches and easy slip dresses. It was a worldwide premiere in full technicolor, “mixed all that with wardrobe favourites”.

Klausner pays a lot of attention to even the smallest details. He took pieces that are associated with glamour like red lips, cinched waist, a dazzling brooch, beads, exotic skins and made them all meet in each look without looking tacky or too much. Even the workwear got glamorized with being made of light organza. Floral dress styled with almost grungy tee. The best were the single driving gloves in bright colors holding the big bags. Animal prints, lurex jacquards, and classic pumps with wooden heels all ground the collection in a slightly offhand, believable reality.

In the end, as the show notes stated, “the familiar apparatus of glamour is left loose enough to be rearranged by the wearer”. This is a collection for the woman who is a movie siren, on and off screen, for real or for fun. by @annotatedthat

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17 days ago

Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2027 by Glenn Martens searched for its grunge and dark romance style. This collection feels more refined than the last and dare to say simplerish. Sharply tailored leather, oversized collars, plastic encased florals, smashed silverware stuck to the bodice of a dress(object trouvé) is unmistakably Margiela but this time it also has grunge and maybe a bit of a gothic feel to it. Especially the makeup once full face of very light fluid even smudged on the hairline and other time full face of almost drag like and colorful. Layering also plays a huge role in this collection with the thick and open weave netting used as both overlays and underpinnings in different looks.

Despite all of the codes and great make up, this collection feels less Margiela than any of the previous collections from Martens. Maybe it had to be this way to be more commercial or maybe Martens spent more time working on his last Diesel collection. by @annotatedthat

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19 days ago

Dior Spring Summer 2027 by Jonathan Anderson changed the fountain in the Tuileries Garden into a foggy lake.

Today’s collection by is dedicated to the late Mathilde Favier. As light as the fog moves in the morning on still waters of a lake as light this collections is. Organza and silk took over almost entire collection making it flowy, light and full of movement, letting the wind work its magic. by @annotatedthat

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20 days ago

Eyes wide open, yet seeing nothing. Ellen Hodakova Larsson delivered a masterclass in fashion as activism. Models walked the runway with their eyes closed, while having realistic eye stickers on their lids which is a haunting critique of our collective selective vision and tendency to ignore the cruelty in the world around us. Turns out the designer is not only deeply connected with horses but with sea life too as she grew up sailing.

Walking on a runway covered in sea salt, the models wore garments that blurred the line between marine tackle and high fashion. Trenches made from fragile looking yet sturdy waxed cloth, deconstructed tailoring fashioned from trousers, and pieces constructed entirely from sails. Chunky knits made from hawser rope contrasting with draped fishing nets that served as a visual metaphor for captivity. Hodakova also used leftover leather scraps to mimic the texture of crocodile skin.

The collection challenges the viewers - us directly to abandon our complacency. As Larsson wrote, “I want to feel more shame, I feel the shame”. by @annotatedthat

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20 days ago

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20 days ago

Bottega Veneta SS/27 was all about “de-robing” the silhouette. Trotter traded heavy, dense layers for open stitch crochet, floral motifs, and fringed skirts that bounced as they walked down the runway. Sharply tailored outerwear got paired with knit Peter Pan hats, proving that fashion can still have a sense of childlike fun.
The classic Intrecciato weave got blown up to look like lightweight raffia. Set to a soundtrack by Florian Hecker and Mark Leckey, and closed by Kendall Jenner. by @annotatedthat

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21 days ago

Maximilian Davis continues to refine his vision for Ferragamo, and the SS/27 collection is a masterclass in modern power dressing.

This season, Davis played heavily with contrast, pairing sharp tailoring with fluid, sheer draping. The color palette was grounded earthy tones broken up by vibrant flashes of yellow, red and blue.

A lot of focus went to semi transparent fabric whether with glossy vinyl or sheer silk. From structured trench coats to sleek pencil skirts, high shine vinyl and supple leathers brought a tough, almost fetishistic edge to the signature Hollywood glamour.

Silhouette wise Davis focused on exposing the waist just like women did in 1940’s, making it the center of many looks. Many looks feature the bellows pockets known from the 1940’s wartime uniforms. by @annotatedthat

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21 days ago