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Jon Kaw PT | Online Climbing & Performance Coach(@baseplus.climbing)'s profile avatar HD Profile

Jon Kaw PT | Online Climbing & Performance Coach

@baseplus.climbing

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🧗 I help V5–8 climbers push past a 6-month+ plateau
👨🏻‍⚕️ Physio/Coach – The injuries are part of it
🏔 Get to crags with confidence | Apply ⬇️
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Heavy = Bad for climbing 🪨 Or so I kept telling myself 🧠 I was frustrated, I tried just doing more, I tried losing weight, and just kept getting hurt. 🏥 The turning point came when I became a physiotherapist and was given better tools to reassess my climbing. I took a step back. I went back to basics. I watched my work load. I simplified my strength training. I gave up on the idea I wasn’t “built for the sport.” And look where that has taken me: - South Africa 🇿🇦 - Switzerland 🇨🇭 - Greece 🇬🇷 (To name a few) Best yet, I was climbing my most confident (and my hardest… I wonder if there’s a correlation 😏) ⚡️ I’ve applied all that I’ve learned; climbing knowledge, S&C, injury prevention and rehab knowledge, etc to all those I’ve worked with, and helped many get “unstuck.” If you’re feeling stuck, overwhelmed by the knowledge library out there, worried about past or future injuries, motivated to get better, then comment “beta” and I’ll send you an on-the-wall and off-the-wall warm up! 💪 #bouldering #climbing by @baseplus.climbing
42
6 months ago
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Losing the joy for climbing? You’re not alone 🧗🏻‍♂️ For ages I blamed being “too heavy” every time climbing “more” stopped working. It was frustrating. It was joy draining. Turns out it wasn’t the weight. It was showing up to the gym with no structure and no intention, just guessing and grinding until the fun slowly drifted away. So I built a system. Structured sessions, periodized weeks, managed load. I wasn’t just climbing more but climbing with intention and it’s not just me. Swipe through to hear David, Chris and Dagmar in their own words. 🤙🏼 If you’re a climber and you’ve been stuck in the plateau loop, this is how you stop the burnout and actually enjoy the process again. Gain confidence to go back to the crags ⛰️ with the system that looks after you for 12 weeks. Want in? Drop me a “REBUILD” in the DMs or hit the link in the bio (I only take on a few clients a month to ensure quality) by @baseplus.climbing
5
3 months ago
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🏋️I always heard I was “too heavy” for climbing. That I’m not built for it. Hate to admit but I was self-conscious at the crag, felt like I didn’t belong to a sport I loved. 🧗‍♀️ So I did what made sense at the time - | just climbed more. More sessions, more volume, more effort... I got hurt. Burnt out. Stuck at the same plateau I was trying to break out of. 🧠 The problem wasn’t my body. It wasn’t my effort. It was that I had no structure. Being a physio changed everything about how I approached it. I knew exactly which muscles of mine were underloaded, which movement patterns were compensating, and how to progressively load the right structures without getting hurt. That’s not something you get from just climbing more. That’s what structure actually looks like. 📈 When I stopped chasing volume and started training intentionally Real progress. I made real asting progress. 📲If you’re stuck at a plateau and unsure what sort of structure you need, drop me a DM and we can jump on a free call using the link in my bio! #bouldering #climbing by @baseplus.climbing
52
6 months ago
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🧠 likes to feel safe, so show it slowly that it is safe, over and over by @baseplus.climbing
10
a day ago
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Not even really about climbing. Took me a bit of back and forth to decide to put this out. So do what you want with it by @baseplus.climbing
19
6 days ago
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If you’re frustrated with your climbing, but just climbing more, maybe it’s time for a season of locking in. by @baseplus.climbing
6
8 days ago
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Feeling stuck despite having a strong weighted pull-up? Well, you might have a speed problem ⚡ You can watch my reel with the clickbait title “Weighted Pull-Ups Don’t Make You Powerful” for spoken detail on this topic. As climbers, we train force very well. I don’t know many V5–7 climbers that regularly incorporates velocity into their supplemental training. This is the speed to actually use the strength you’ve built. This post is about the PULL, so generating to the next hold. The catch (fingers) is coming next 👀 I’ve provided some examples that you could use above. ⚠️ This is nervous-system quality, not conditioning. So you want to be doing it FRESH, after a proper warm-up, and never tired. Short sets with long rests, full recovery. Grinding out slow reps is a no-no for this adaptation, the second the speed drops, you’re done. This is a supplement, not a replacement. We build the capacity (motor unit recruitment and rate coding) to produce the force. Climbing then teaches us to apply that force (intermuscular coordination). Climbing is what makes you a better climber 🧗, this just gives us so much more to work with! None of this has to be complex. I’m not showing you the best exercises, I don’t want to be that kind of social media account. What I want for you all of you is to understand the different qualities; to understand your goal’s needs and training toward it. The results come from consistency, intention and periodisation; not complexity, not fancy exercises, not changing it up week to week. Simple is what keeps you compliant, and what keeps your fatigue in check. ✅ This works best when programmed in the right order. Too much too soon could mean no power gain + tweaky elbows. by @baseplus.climbing
34
4 months ago
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Why heavy pull-ups might not be making you more powerful. (They might even be making you slower 🐌) Power = Force × Velocity. Heavy training builds the force side. But the body is specific, it adapts to what you ask of it. Do enough slow, max load reps and you train your nervous system to do one thing well: produce force slowly. Strength and speed of force are different qualities. You can be strong and slow. And most hard climbing moves happen super quickly ⚡ faster than you can physically reach your max force. So your 1RM strength never even shows up. What decides the move is how much force you can produce in that tiny window. If you’re weak, heavy work raises the ceiling on everything. But once you’ve built a real strength base, more weighted pull-ups just reinforces the slow end of the force-time curve and leaves the fast end untouched. Power specific training looks different. Lower load, maximal intent, every rep fired with full speed and aggression through the whole range. You’re teaching the nervous system to fire fast. 💥 The stronger you already are, the more you’ve got to gain from velocity and ballistic work. If you’re V5–7 and still just stacking weight on your pull-ups, this is your missing piece. 🧩 Follow for more examples on specific training for power! by @baseplus.climbing
110
4 months ago
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You hangboard. Your fingers are strong. So why do small holds still spit you off? 🤔 Because maybe you don’t realise that max finger strength and finger speed are two different things. And MAYBE… you’ve never given this any time in your supplemental work. This post is about the CATCH; your fingers sticking the hold in a fraction of a second. (Last post was the pull) Swipe for a few examples to train contact strength 👉 fresh fingers only. This is a neural adaptations and not a metabolic one. Finger RFD is high reward, but also high risk if you tack it on at the wrong time. Structure matters. Comment 💥 and I’ll revamp your climbing week. by @baseplus.climbing
10
4 months ago
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The last paragraph is the most important bit ‼️ Contact strength is how fast your fingers can generate force the moment they touch a hold. 🤜 Not how much force, but how fast. That’s rate of force development (RFD). And it could be your most undertrained quality in your climbing. 📈 Most climbers build finger strength through hangboarding, block pulls, repeaters, etc. They’re usually yielding (holding) isometrics, all maximal effort over a period of time. That trains your force ceiling. It doesn’t train your speed to reach it. When you slap a hold dynamically you have a fraction of a second to generate enough force to stick the move. If that speed was never trained, you may not have enough time to reach the strength it requires. ⏱️ This is where intent becomes everything. Finger RFD training isn’t about slowly grinding a heavy rep. Every single movement has to be performed with explosiveness and maximal intent to be fast. Slow, controlled reps train slow, controlled fingers. Remember, the nervous system adapts to what you actually do. 🧠 Examples of what this looks like: campus boarding, jump catches, dynamic board problems, or overcoming isometric finger curls with as much speed as possible building into a max curl. The common theme is speed of intent on every rep. 💪 If you’ve never trained this before, you don’t need to do a huge amount of volume. 2-3 jump catches for a few sets or 1-3 sets on the campus board. Maybe a handful of dynamic board problems. But it’s important to understand quality matters here. You are done when you lose power or your coordination starts going. Finishing with juice in the tank is the point. This fast contraction disappears quickly under fatigue and so please stop the moment that happens. 🔋 Start easy, move fast, stay fresh. Comment 💥 below and I’ll DM you my favourite way to train finger RFD before I post some later this week. by @baseplus.climbing
26
4 months ago
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There’s too much nuance that goes unsaid on social media and I absolutely try my best to share that nuance in my posts. Let me know if it comes off that way Appreciate my good friend @yanni_zhou for helping me with photos! by @baseplus.climbing
9
13 days ago
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If you’ve been climbing and battling a lot of injuries and you’ve yet to strength train, this could be the start to your journey for a more resilient body. To me, it’s always just made sense. This paper adds to the case for strength training as a way to spend less time out injured. And that’s before getting into how much it helps you come back if you do get hurt. When I stopped strength training (deadlifting specifically) early in my climbing to be a better or more “real” climber, I tore my hamstring twice (obviously can’t say for sure that was why), but since adding hamstring work back in after those injuries, I’ve been okay so far. Lauersen JB, Andersen TE, Andersen LB. Strength training as superior, dose-dependent and safe prevention of acute and overuse sports injuries: a systematic review, qualitative analysis and meta-analysis. Br J Sports Med. 2018;52(24):1557–63. doi:10.1136/bjsports-2018-099078 by @baseplus.climbing
4
12 days ago
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