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Dana Rader

@darader_boards

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Moonboard 2024 | Mom 🧑‍🧑‍🧒‍🧒| Doctor of Optometry| climbing ~ 20 years | board life with @steve_rader4| 5’5” ↕️-1 ↔️ |drags and heels

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Say Squeeeze v10/7c+
Benchmark
By Double A @adenjn

Last week I made a goal I really hoped I could meet. To try hard once more before the end of the year. Before my birthday. An early gift to myself perhaps?
Sometimes you know you can physically do something, but accessing the drive is difficult. I’m very fortunate I am able to make the space to climb this thing. I know it’s just board climbing, but the problems are hard and I do it because it’s fun for me. I get to do them because I have the support.
This is a great problem and worth the time. l love the vertical pinches. Going to remember this one. The drive by to j16 is 🤌🏼 So good.

Say Squeeeze, 7C+/V10 , 40° MoonBoard, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by Double A. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder by @darader_boards

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2 years ago

Stargaze v10/7c+
Benchmark
By @steve_rader4

It took me a long time to light this problem up. It’s my husband Steve’s benchmark. We know Stargaze well because it is one of the first v10 benchmarks on the 2024 set. I’m sorry it took me so long to try. I love you and I gave this one my best.
That last move is insane and so fun. It climbs beautifully. ❤️💎

Stargaze, 7C+/V10 benchmark, 40° MoonBoard, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by Steve Rader. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder by @darader_boards

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2 years ago

Slippy pencil v10/7c+
By David
Benchmark

There is something about the name of this problem. It’s silly but also dreadful sounding. It’s a good problem, and a tricky one. No one wants to slip. You’re essentially in a wrestling match against slippery wood holds for 30 something seconds. I knew it would take a lot out of me, so I needed to find balance outside of climbing before jumping into it.

This is not my first, but it is my first v10 benchmark on the board. I thought it might be stargaze, but that’s another story if I ever get to it.

slippy pencil, 7C+/V10 benchmark, 40° MoonBoard, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by David. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder by @darader_boards

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2 years ago

Fire Climb v8/7b+
By Ayaan
Benchmark

Nice techy benchmark with a few different ways to do the beginning. Really enjoyed this one. Very nice.

My perfectionist tendencies made me reupload the reel, knowing it’ll tank it.

Fire Climb, 7B+/V8 benchmark, 40°, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by ayaan. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder

#moonboard2024 by @darader_boards

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6 days ago

Situationship v9/7c
Benchmark
No kickboard
By @hoseok_lee93

It’s taken time to get to this problem. I’ve been testing out my flexor tendon on c10 for months since I injured it. I could pull on the c10 undercling, but not with the intensity required for the move. I’ve been wanting to get on this set since I saw it published. I’m so very happy that I’m healthy enough for it today. One of your best. 👏🏼

situationship, 7C/V9 benchmark, 40°, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by Hoseok Lee. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder

#moonboardbenchmark by @darader_boards

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20 days ago

Bejczmark v9/7c
Benchmark
By @kuba.jodlowski

It’s fun to anticipate beta variations when new benchmarks go live. This one especially, since Steve and I climbed it vastly different. I call this the anti-Steve beta. The intro has a tricky heel hook if you forego campus or toe-in beta. The placement needs to be precise or you risk flaying your fingers. Maybe this beta will help or perhaps sabotage your flash attempt 😜 A fun one.

bejczmark, 7C/V9 benchmark, 40°, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by Jodlak. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder by @darader_boards

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25 days ago

Basically Everest v10/7c+ setter 7c user
Benchmark
By Hubro

The name of this problem matches the vibe of this set. It’s sort of hard but maybe it’s not? The cross back is cool, but I couldn’t do it consistently without pain. This beta is okay though, but the g15 match is still horrendous. I did not escape without some pain from it.
It’s my first harder end benchmark after a pretty bad strain on one of my left flexor tendons. I hope this marks the end of the recovery journey and I’m out of the woods. I never know how well I’ll recover after injuries. There’s always so much mental doubt. Thankfully there are many people here that remind me that it’s not over. Psyched!

💀😂

basically Everest, 7C+/V10 benchmark, 40°, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by Hubro. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder by @darader_boards

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3 months ago

Impossible Roll Over v9/7c user 7b+ setter
Benchmark
By @cgclimbs

I was working a different benchmark today to get my fitness and tryhard back, but was shut down. Something kept calling me to this one 😉 B12 has been an off limits hold for the past 2 months, but the tendon felt good today. Gave this a whirl at the end of the session and put it down quick.
I like this style and I like hooks. Regardless of how hard it felt, I enjoyed the set. Some moves will feel easier on certain days. The energy output and skill set required was appropriate for this grade range, and I’m thankful to be healthy enough to send.

Drop that left foot, sag hard on the right heel and rip.

—————————

This song is for you @destrega5

impossible roll over, 7B+/V8 benchmark, 40°, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by gouldinho7. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder by @darader_boards

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3 months ago

Choking on Fumes v8/7b+
Benchmark
By @joe_walmsley00

Pretty psyched. Had minimal pain climbing today and got on a really good set. I’ve climbed a decent amount of problems on the 2024, and I was pleasantly surprised with this one. Very nice with hard rose move through the middle. Fun start with good options. Overall very good new benchmark 👍🏻👏🏼

My heel beta is harder to get into and maintain, but it helps make the rose easier by sucking you into the wall. Lots of options here though.

Choking On Fumes, 7B+/V8 benchmark, 40°, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by Joe Walmsley. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder by @darader_boards

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3 months ago

I wanted to post the v8/7bs from the last big batch of benchmarks because some of my favorite sets are in here. A collection of mostly old but some newer videos. Im injured and bummed, so I felt like giving some love back to the community. Thank you for providing some amazing sets that have kept me busy in the garage over the years.

1. Cull the Weak 7b (by @matt.maples who is crushing in Rocklands rn) - one my favorites in the grade by far. Smooth intro to the hard gaston and unwind into the 1-2 finish is perfect to me. Beautiful setting.

2. Mirabeau Bas 7b (by @nwedge I love your sets) I’m always happy when I finish them and I can always find the flow if I climb them right.

3. Inside the Flag 7b (by @leo_skinner) - the hold choice for 7b here works so well. Going wide and then coming into a high step lock off feels right. Placement is really good.

4. Let it Flow 7b (by danisssimo) - it reminded me of Steve’s benchmark Pendulum. It’s a great builder set for it. Good consistency good fun. by @darader_boards

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4 months ago

H-Town Smash v8/7b+
Benchmark (no kickboard)
By Dana Rader

There was a massive benchmark drop today, and I’m happy to see this in the batch. I want to credit @unlimited_perform for creating the og sequence called Detroit Smash. Thank you for your beta videos and sets. 🙇🏻‍♀️

This is a variation of the sequence to force a path that stood out for me. The moves are wide and I’m a minus one inch ape index. This puts my wingspan at around 162 cm/5’4”. It may feel far for a few people, but if you’re in this range then give it a go.

For my Houston moonboarders. Also psyched the World Cup is hosted in our city this year!

H-Town Smash, 7B+/V8 , 40° MoonBoard, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by Dana Rader. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder by @darader_boards

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4 months ago

Crazy Move v9/7c
Benchmark
By @pjmoonclimbs

I deleted the original video thinking this wouldn’t get benchmarked. I salvaged this from the story archives from 2 years ago.

I’m currently recovery from a left hand flexor tendon strain, but I’ve managed to climb some with care. It’s nice to see this one benchmarked and to post something at least. Cheers. Have fun ✌🏻

CRAZY MOVE, 7C/V9 , 40° MoonBoard, MoonBoard 2024 setup, set by PJMOONCLIMBS. - @moonclimbing #moonboard #moonclimbing #moonboardchallenge #trainhardclimbharder by @darader_boards

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4 months ago