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July has been very active all the way around. We’ve had surf every day since March, four hurricanes stacked up, and more to come. I’m celebrating my 63rd birthday next week, when folks my age are looking at retirement packages and assisted living, I feel like I’m just getting started. It’s been a very humbling and blessed journey and I hope to squeeze out 20 more years! 🙏🤙🏾

🎥 @surfline 📸 @ronin_photo by @dollywooddollywood

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100

3 months ago

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When I was 18, I thought I had a bright future ahead of me. But then, my first sniff of cocaine and a drink stopped me in my tracks by the time I was 25. It felt like there was no future at all, and I never thought I’d get on a surfboard again. In just a matter of minutes, weeks, and years, my dreams were stolen.

But the last 20 years have been about rebuilding, rebranding, and focusing on my physical and mental health. Now, as I approach 63 in a couple of months, I’m forever grateful that I still have the mindset of that 18 year old with relatively no aches or pains but a bright future to the finish line. 🏁

I always tell my friends, just stretch every morning, meditate, and surf no matter what and you’ll finish your life strong. Thank you God for second chance!

Master cameraman @casey_figlewicz by @dollywooddollywood

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6 months ago

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$Another Pool party. I find myself at more pool parties than beach parties, but that’s OK by me. I’ve gotta say this was one of the better pools I’ve ever surfed. Of course I’m not including Kellys as that’s a whole different dimension and time. A few things I absolutely loved at the DSRT pool, the set intervals are much faster than the others, the water level seems to be lower, which the wave feels the bottom, and makes a much more powerful wave and pool has zero refraction which is hard to find. Thanks for having me out boys. @dsrtsurf @stamps.surfboards @locky11 @kookint by @dollywooddollywood$

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12 hours ago

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