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Dylan Miller

@dylanmiller639

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Just wanted to give a shout out to Alex Burkhartt (@aburkhartt).

Alex has become a boss of a climber out there. Leading the charge, leading the crux pitches, and leading rappels into the unknown. And he just doesn’t run out of steam.

And all at the same time he keeps a happy, positive attitude. Never jeopardizing safety for success. Never lazy and complacent after a long day.

I’m feel lucky to have friends and climbing partners like that.

Thanks Alex for sharing the experience. I appreciate you.

I also want to give a shout out to Ryan Johnson and Mark Andre. Ryan was a mentor and a climbing idol to me, the things he did in the mountains were, and still are cutting edge to this day. But more than that he’s remembered for his sense of humor, quality friendship, and smile. Miss you bud. ❤️

(On Tuesday March 5th Alex and I climbed the 7th Mendenhall Tower, car to car in 18.5 hrs, this was Alex’s 4th tower in winter, my 3rd, and also completed topping out all seven of the Mendenhall Towers) by @dylanmiller639

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3 years ago

Last weekend (3/26-3/21), Alex Burchart, Seth Clasen, Cameron Jardell, and I made an ascent of a new line on the Main Mendenhall Tower.

I first saw the line in photos as a series of snow slopes connected by ramps and ledges. I joked that it would be one hell of a ski line. But never really thought of it as a winter route until this year.

After going through every photo I had (summer and winter) of the Towers, I thought l, yes I think this will go! Yet the outrageous exposure, the unknown areas of the mountain, and the large traverses made the route seem far fetched. But we had to try, and everyone was psyched to check it out.

The route has never been climbed in summer either, and most of it has gone unexplored until now. Thus giving the whole experience an incredible feeling of discovery, fear of the unknown, and excitement. The greatest unknown, we’re whether the snow conditions would be conducive for climbing. At the base of the route we (Cam and Seth) had to dig our way up. Literally, the leader with a shovel, digging a 5’ deep trench. It took 45 minutes to go 100’. But then the conditions changed for the best. like that we were climbing perfect 70-80 degree neve and ice. Making 500 feet in 30 minutes. The route flip flopped between great snow and ice climbing with sections of deep powder. Eventually we found our selves just below the summit, a 50’ pitch of steep 80+ degree rime and crust was all that stood in our way… putting the 1400’ of exposure in the back of our minds we climbed the pitch and made the summit.

On the decent we found 3 out of 4 of the rappel anchors Keagan, Seth and I used on our recent ascent of the mountain, making for a quick decent.

It’s hard to describe the experience, with all it’s feelings, views, pitches, etc… All I can say is that We are quite proud about this one… this ascent is now a benchmark for me of what the meaning “first ascent” is really all about. The word has become overused in the climbing world… but there’s a difference between a first ascent of a sport climb and a first ascent of a winter route on a mountain. Just saying from personal perspective and experience. by @dylanmiller639

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4 years ago

There’s been a shift in the weather and spring is knocking at the door. It was a good winter, with incredible ski days, ice conditions, and breaks in the weather to visit the mountains.

Here are some of the ice and mountain highlights.

1. Cole Taylor on the first ascent of Spindrifter
2. Cameron Jardel on the first ascent of Judgment Day
3. Seth Clasen on yet another ascent of Norse Pole
4. The Shark Tooth draped in winter glory
5. Sunrise on the first winter ascent of the Shark Tooth
6. Seth climbing into the day
7. Morning light on peak 5800
8. The Terminator and Norse Pole in prime conditions.
9. Seth leading possibly the best pitch of ice in Juneau
10. Summit stoke on the Shark Tooth.

It’s hard to say good by to winter after nonstop pow days, climbing etc.. the momentum gets going and it’s hard slow down.. soon it’ll be time to turn our gaze towards the rock, and I think tee shirts will be a warm welcome ;). Thanks Juneau, thanks to all my friend, and the weather gods for yet another spectacular winter. It’ll be hard to beat this one. But there’s always more. by @dylanmiller639

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4 years ago

Towers in winter! What a good time.. and how lucky we were with conditions. It had been blowing 60+ mph up there for days. When we saw a 24 hour lull in the winds we knew this was our chance..

The last two people that stood on top of the Main Tower in winter were the great Ryan Johnson and Marc Andre. I could feel them up there.. I could picture them standing on that same summit just like we were.. they were up the 5 years ago just a few days our ascent day. I often think about Ryan and how he would be so proud of how far we have come.. and the things Ryan and I would have done together.

I never had the chance to meet Marc, but before Ryan and Marc set out to climb their new line, Ryan said “Marc will need a climbing/ski partner when we’re back”. I wish that came true..

Those two continue to be an inspiration and warm memory. Our ascent was a tribute to Ryan and Marc, for lighting the way, and being visionaries. I would not be the person I am today without people like them, and all my friends, to inspire and guide me along the way. Cheers Ryan, cheers Marc hope your climbing mountains in a place and time… by @dylanmiller639

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4 years ago

Video 1: cool potential bivy on the Affanaseiff. Video 2: summit or Rafael by @dylanmiller639

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4 years ago

Here are some pics and vids from Gabe and I climb up Cerro Chalten. I’ll give a little more context to the ascent: The route we picked is called the Affanaseiff. It’s a 1550 meter (5000’) rock climb, with the hardest climbing going at 6a+ or 5.10b. There were maybe 5-6 rope lengths with 5.10 climbing. So not a very “hard” route over all, lots and lots of 5.6-5.9. So we were able to simul and move fast. The reason we chose the route was due to the conditions of the mountain, kinda cold and snowy, and the length of the weather window, which was really just a 2 day window. We knew we could climb it fast, and stay mostly out of the snow and ice on that side of the mountain. the climb went just as planned, we hiked in Monday, climbed to the top Tuesday (14hrs), slept on the summit, and rapped and hiked home Wednesday. Definitely not a “splitter” climb, but it was classic alpine climbing fun. Lots of continuous movement and great views. by @dylanmiller639

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4 years ago

Good time on Cerro Chalten. Stoked to get this one done. Saved the biggest and best for last. by @dylanmiller639

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4 years ago

Gabe and I got out on our second mission the other day. We climbed De L’s, which completed the Cerro Chalten skyline for Gabe. That’s a pretty proud accomplishment for only being his second time here. As always it was a pleasure to be in the mountains with him and enjoy the views! by @dylanmiller639

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4 years ago

Some more photos from our first trip into the mountains of El Chalten this year. by @dylanmiller639

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4 years ago

Gabe and I got out on or first climb here in El Chalten: Ag. Rafael Juarez via the Anglo-Americana. It was super fun and what a setting! The peaks here are insane. We’re sad to hear about the fatalities of the two coming off of Cerro Chalten. Our hearts go out to their friends and families. Tragic and hard to comprehend when we’re all out here doing the same thing. by @dylanmiller639

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4 years ago

Drone footage of Mt. Sinclair 6/26/22 by @dylanmiller639

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4 years ago

Ice climbing has been so good this season. 🤞 it sticks around. by @dylanmiller639

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5 years ago