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Ethan Morf

@ethanmorf

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A week ago, I finished my longest and hardest project to date, Spirit of the West ~5.14a 🌀🦅

As I sit at my computer, mulling over the experience on the route and how I have changed as a person while working on it, I’m wary of adding another cliché, predictable story of struggle to the sea of Instagram climbing achievement captions. So I’ll focus more on the mindset change than the struggle itself. Because, yes, it’s a given that a hard route for you is going to be hard. And my commentary on my mindset in climbing has become a bit of a theme in my last few posts.

It’s mid-September, and I’ve just punted from one of the last hard moves of SOTW. As per usual, I fly towards the earth while yelling some curse word I would not want my parents to hear. This time, maybe it’s a little louder, because the next day the heavens unleash biblical rain, closing the season for at least the next few weeks. My time was up. My good friends, who had come out that day, console me at the base.

I drive home towards the Okanagan, windshield wipers moving as fast as possible. I dwell on the feeling of not doing it. It feels bad. But why? Why do I care so much about this climb, enough for it to follow me after I’ve left the crag? I spent the winter cultivating good experiences: climbing in Skaha, walling in Yosemite, and new-routing in Cochamó. Soon, I was back home in Skaha, and my mind drifted back to SOTW. It was time to get fit.

I decided to try a similar-style route in Skaha to get ready. I started working on it and, pretty quickly, was getting close to doing it, falling on the last few moves. But as I kept falling just before the anchor, I became more irritable with every close try. At the same time, some recurring finger injuries started flaring back up. But I just couldn’t let it go.

continued in the comments ⬇️

@edelrid_sport
@deadpointclimbingco
@arcteryx
@arizona_mountaineering_gear

📸 @dillon.film and @patvalade !! ❤️❤️💥🌞 taken in Sḵwxwú7mesh by @ethanmorf

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a month ago

CON TODO EL MUNDO — A First Ascent Story
FILM OUT NOW ON YOUTUBE — LINK IN BIO

Last winter, @arlo_kast, @rach_bal, @toastedmellon, @jessicaanaruk, Tim and I went to Cochamó, Chile, with the vague goal of putting up a new route. We showed up with a hand drill, a couple hooks, and absolutely no idea what we were getting ourselves into.

We spent a month learning to aid climb with limited supplies — hand-drilling, scrubbing, and a bit of rock climbing. Our efforts eventually became Con Todo El Mundo, a 10-pitch 5.13.
This film is the story of that adventure, told through our eyes.

I had a specific vision for this film. I’m endlessly inspired by Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll’s videos, and I wanted to make something raw, unpolished, and authentic that told the story and passed the psyche on to the viewer. After a spring and summer of on-and-off editing, I’m stoked to finally share it with y’all.

The film is presented by the @thedirtbagfund, whose grant helped make this trip possible. @cedarwright was also incredibly supportive throughout the filmmaking process and gave me the freedom to run with my creative vision. Thank you, Cedar.

Massive thanks to my day one.
@edelrid_sport — Thank you for believing in my vision and supporting me and The Dirtbag Fund. You treat your athletes like family. Love y’all.

Also big thanks to @deadpointclimbingco — The OGs.
@arcteryx — for the the gear and bringing us together to tell the story at the Academy.
@arizona_mountaineering_gear — Bungee Club for Life!
@kodiakcakes — for the tasty pancake breakfasts.

This trip reminded me what I want to seek out in climbing, and the attitude I want to bring to every adventure. It wouldn’t have been the same with a different team.

Big Love, cheers to future adventures, and enjoy the film! taken in Valle Cochamo by @ethanmorf

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a month ago

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a year ago

Got the chance to spend a day out at Paradise with my dear friend Ethan Morf. It was special to see a little glimpse into his process with this one. What once was a test piece for him physically became an experience of letting go, coming to terms with his motivation and why he showed up, time and time again.

Something I have come to realize too with projecting, when you are getting close but it isn’t falling into place, is how special it is to get to show up and try one more time. Something that sending, in a way, takes away. In Ethan’s own words: “I felt lucky to get another chance to try hard on such an incredible piece of stone.” And later, “I had finally realized that I wasn’t there to send. I was there to enjoy rock climbing.”

Ultimately, when he was least chasing the outcome he found himself at the chains. Reflecting on it afterwards, he said, “the process had been 99% of the fun. I just hadn’t realized it.”

Anyone who knows Ethan knows he is no one to spray, and while this huge accomplishment is worth celebrating, the grace with which he climbs and shows up for the people around him is what inspires me.

Huge should out to the folks at @oatequipment for making some dope ass gear Ethan and I have been fortunate enough to test out on rock! Go check them out!

Big shout out to @deadpointclimbingco for their bomb ass chalk

🧗🏼‍♂️: Ethan Morf - Spirit of the West (5.14a)

Shot on Mamiya rb67 and Nikon F5 + Illford HP5plus400 + Ektacolor400pro

📍 Sḵwx̱wú7mesh Úxwumixw unceded ancestral homelands stone and waters by @ethanmorf

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18 hours ago

Some photos, and part of the video @evanwongphoto produced for the @arcteryxacademy Squamish Exposed! 🌀💥💧

Fun to look back and think of the hectic summer, and the day I got to spend with Evan shooting. I was sick as a dog, but stoked to be out shooting with a very talented individual, and getting to climb with the homies at the same time 🫂💕💥🌞

The theme was ‘Flow’ and I think he did a really good job capuring that! The amount of work he put in was insane, and in a extremely short time! He got third so it seemed that others appreciated the work as well :)
You can find the full film on @arcteryx YouTube!

Thanks for the day, Evan and friends 💌💕🦅 taken in Sḵwxwú7mesh by @ethanmorf

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13 days ago

CON TODO EL MUNDO PREMIERE 🦅

Join us on September 12th, for the premiere of our film ‘Con Todo El Mundo’! It is a film produced by Me, @rach_bal, @arlo_kast, @toastedmellon @jessicaanaruk and Tim Greenwood in collaboration and support from the @thedirtbagfund . It depicts our trip to Cochamó last winter, where we established our new route dubbed ‘Con Todo El Mundo’, (10p 5.13, 420m).

The location is downstairs at the @squamishathleticclub_, doors at 7pm, and show starts at 8pm! It is *Admission by Donation*. Funds going towards the @vrs_squamish.

There will be raffle prizes from @edelrid_sport, @deadpointclimbingco and @squamishathleticclub_ !
And there will be plenty of popcorn. So pull up if your around!

Hope to see you there ❤️❤️💕🦅🌀 taken in Squamish Athletic Club by @ethanmorf

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a month ago

This Week I am Hanging with @ethanmorf .

Ethan is a Canadian climber who spent some time in Australia last year. He climbed in the Blue Mountains, Arapiles Dyuritte and the Grampians along his journey.
He is also part responsible for the now iconic video “Sneaky Snake”, an homage to Aus climbing films. The film follows the elusive German Oliver Schmidt and his 2nd ascent of a @leecossey route Sneaky Snake (33) on Taipan.

Full episode available Monday 🎙️
Anywhere you get your podcasts ❤️‍🔥
-
#climbingtrip #squamish #taipan #elcap #cochemo by @ethanmorf

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2 months ago

All Along the Watch Tower, Onsight, In-a-Day.
Camp to camp in 23hrs and 54min. 🌀🫠
(24+p, ~5.12-, 3000ft, ED2?)

My cup is feeling full after an amazing few weeks in the Bugaboos. We spent the whole time in East Creek, and climbed many things, but the highlight for me was definitely All Along the Watchtower.

It’s a climb I have dreamed of for a long time. I read @natgbailey blog about doing it a few years ago and knew I had to come try. It’s a beautiful read that I highly recommend.

I climbed it as a party of 3 with @rach_bal and @toastedmellon . Calum and I have been scheming and dreaming about it for quite some time, but could never figure out what style we wanted to climb it in. IAD? One night? We didn’t know if we were capable of either. The route is pretty real, at least it seemed that way to us. Committing, long, and containing all the other alpine climbing bonuses I am not familiar with. Seracs, glaciers, convoluted ridge climbing, and a not-so-straightforward descent.

We decided to go for it with a single bivy on the summit ridge. But light, only one sleeping bag for the 3 of us. We started at 3:15am, dark, cold, and scared of what was to come. We got to the base around 6, and climbed the first 10–12 pitches very slowly, as they were quite route-findy and kind of chossy.

Once in the corners, we were on our feet a bit more. No more climbing with bags, and we could do huge pitches in the corners. Rachel blasted us off and did a couple 60-ish metre pitches in the corners to set us up well. It was my turn to lead the final bit of corners, through the crux, and to the summit ridge.

The sun warmed my back. I felt like I could photosynthesize and use the sun for energy. It felt like flying up the corner. I got to the belay before the crux traverse and saw my friends @noahbeek15 and @instasam.q on it. Noah said it seemed wet, and I felt a wave of relief come over me.

Continued in the comments ⬇️ taken in Bugaboo Provincial Park by @ethanmorf

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2 months ago

Meet @thedirtbagfund grantee @ethanmorf who first came on our radar when he became the youngest person to free climb the Freerider in a day! Ethan used the 2k grant to FA rage in Cochamo Patagonia with an all time crew! HERE IS ETHAN’s REPORT!!!

Getting gripped, scrubbing, hammering bolts, and a bit of free-climbing characterized our month-long odyssey at La Paloma in Cochamó, Chile.

As a team of seven, @rach_bal @arlo_kast @toastedmellon @jessicaanaruk Tim Greenwood, Jon Holt and myself, Ethan Morf. We were able to successfully establish a new line dubbed “Con Todo El Mundo”. 5.13, 10 pitches, 420 meters.

Wide-eyed and unprepared. We went ground up into the unknown. Learning how to aid climb, equipped with 2 beaks, a hand-drill, and a massive amount of stoke.

It was a life-changing experience for all of us, and our first times establishing a route!

We were helped out by the dirtbag fund. We wisely spent our cash on a ludicrous amount of mayonnaise, wine, and then some bolts. Thanks DBF!

A dirtbag fund video is soon to follow 🦅🤩

Applications open 4-20. Go to TheDirtbagFund.com to apply, donate or cop some merch. by @ethanmorf

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6 months ago

Velho Alerce 🌀🌀

When I arrived in Cochamó, my homies had already spent some time getting acquainted with the area. I hadn’t been climbing for a few months because of my foot, but I was eager to keep up with the crew.

On my second day climbing, we tried a route called ‘Velho Alerce’ in the Trinidad Valley—an 8-pitch line stacked with beautiful splitters. It was a tough wake-up back into climbing, but it felt so good to try hard again.

We got close on our first go and decided it was worth resting a day before giving it another push. Heading back up was magical—the weather was perfect and the stoke was high. The stone on this route is impeccable, and it ended up being the perfect way to get back into the multi-pitch redpoint headspace.

These photos were taken a few days later on a photo-mission with Victoria and Calum. It turned out to be one of the coldest stretches of the trip—the moody weather made for an incredible atmosphere, and gave us some proper shiver bivys while waiting for the light, perched on micro ledges with the homies 💕💕

Ended up getting plenty of footage on the rip with the whole crew, so expect a vid on it in the future :)

@edelrid_sport
@arcteryx
@deadpointclimbingco
@arizona_mountaineering_gear taken in Valle Cochamo by @ethanmorf

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7 months ago

CON TODO EL MUNDO, 10p 5.13 Ground Up FIRST ASCENT

This February I linked up with the homies in Cochamó. Throughout the month, we made our way up Pared de la Paz in the La Paloma area. We had two beaks of differing sizes, a hand drill, and endless stoke.

After a month of scrubbing, getting gripped, swinging hammers, and eating ludicrous amounts of mayonnaise, we topped out, freeing our route, now dubbed “Con Todo El Mundo.” It’s 420 meters, 10 pitches, 5.13, with one crux pitch; the rest is mostly 5.11–5.12 climbing.

An absolute once-in-a-lifetime experience with the best crew we could’ve asked for. We started wide-eyed and underprepared, with no aid gear, 50 bolts, and a hand drill. We quickly realized we wouldn’t magically find a perfect splitter up the entire wall. Thankfully, kind folks in La Junta helped us gather just enough gear to squeak by.

Our vision was to climb it ground up, placing minimal bolts on lead, then return to equip it for safe free climbing. The route follows seams, corners, and flakes. With only two beaks, we resorted to “bumping” them — leaving nothing behind until we found a solid piece or were gripped enough to place a bolt for the free ascent.

Once on the summit, we finished scrubbing and bolting to make it fully free-climbable. Weather set us back, and when it finally cleared, we had four days to try it free. We got it done — and it turned out to be really good climbing.

We filmed most of the process and I’ll be putting together a film, along with a deeper write-up soon. We’re incredibly grateful for the experience and hope many more get to enjoy the route.

Thank you, Cochamó.

@edelrid_sport
@arcteryx
@deadpointclimbingco
@arizona_mountaineering_gear
@kodiakcakes taken in Valle Cochamo by @ethanmorf

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7 months ago

Big Sur Pancake Party! (I Fractured My Heel, Whoops)
El Niño Attempt Video Link In Bio 🔗

This fall, I was walking through the orange and yellow leaves of Yosemite. It had been warm on El Cap lately, but I was getting antsy, festering on the ground. My partner, Tim Greenwood, and I had been planning to try El Niño all summer, and it was finally time to give it a rip. By early November, we had pre-hauled and were ready to go.
There was one problem: a major storm was forecast to engulf El Cap for several days, right in the middle of our attempt. We had already pushed our timeline waiting for good conditions, had prior obligations at the end of the month, and this was our only window to be on the wall. We decided to go for it and try to weather the storm, giving ourselves the best chance possible. So, we packed 14 days’ worth of supplies. It felt outrageous—but we were psyched. A few days before starting, we learned that our (soon-to-be close) friends Cedar and Ima would be starting at the same time. I had heard of them many times before and had spent some time with Cedar in Australia earlier in the spring. I looked up to both of them greatly—not just for how strong they were, but for their style. In the @tylerkarow video of them climbing the South African Route in Torres del Paine, they’re cooking in mini cast irons and partying despite heinous weather. I was hoping to get a taste of that energy on El Cap.
We started on the evening of November 9th—our “Day 0”—when I climbed the bottom three crux pitches. The next morning, Tim finished off the lower section, and we moved up to Big Sur that day. On November 11th, I gave the crux pitch a proper attempt. Dubbed La Niña, it’s a rad 13b/c face pitch established by @sonnietrotter in 2018 and the key to the free variation of El Niño.
I started climbing once the shade hit the pitch. I moved through the crux fairly quickly and settled into the no-hands rest above it. I had mistakenly not brought enough slings, so I decided to conserve gear and placed just one nut at the rest. After a bit, I continued upward, fully convinced I was in “victory climbing” mode. — Continues In Comments* taken in Yosemite National Park by @ethanmorf

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9 months ago