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Koasaüberschreitung 🏔️
Whenever I look at the skyline of the Wilder Kaiser, one thought keeps coming back to my mind: What would it be like to cross the whole traverse?
From Maukspitze to Zettenkaiser.
The idea of doing it alone and in one push made it even more tempting for me. Many of the sections I had never climbed before, so I knew there would be surprises waiting for me. I knew it would be hard — but I had no idea just how hard it would actually be.
Long hours. Endless scrambling and climbing. Loose rock. Exhaustion. And the constant need to make decisions in terrain where small mistakes can have serious consequences.
The idea that had been stuck in my mind every time I looked at the Kaiser skyline had finally become reality.
#sportgatt #lasportiva #lasportivagram #wilderkaiser #climbing taken in Wilder Kaiser by @gruber_alex
26
a month ago
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An amazing day in the mountain ended with a new route
Mi Carnal 400m, M6 Urus Oeste 5450m, Southface,
First ascent by Alexander Gruber and Iñaki Herrasti

A route with high rock quality (granite), good protection cracks and good belay points in several places. Very fun to climb. The ice on the first pitch was very good, very thin at P2. The beginning of P3 is a technical climb, then gets calmer and the ice/snow improves until the summit.

We recommend a double rack, a set of stoppers, 2 short ice screws and two snow bets.
We didn’t leave anything behind on the route, descending a gully heading east.
P1 is a 30m M4-.
P2 is the Crux M6, very good quality and fun to climb.
P3 begins with a 10m M6, then gets less difficult and continues with a M4.  P4 M2-M4 to the end of the gully and than a easy walk to the summit
  Mi Carnal 400m, M6, Urus Oeste 5450m, cara sur
Primera ascensión de Alexander Gruber e Iñaki Herrasti

Una ruta con muy buena calidad de roca (granito). Buenas fisuras de protección y buenas reuniones en varios puntos. Muy divertida de escalar. El hielo del primer largo era muy bueno, muy fino y quebradizo en L2. El comienzo de L3 se convierte en una escalada técnica, luego se vuelve más tranquila y el hielo/nieve mejora hasta la cima.

Recomendamos un rack doble de levas ,un juego de stoppers, un par de tornillos y dos estacas.
No dejamos nada en la ruta, descendiendo por una canaleta en dirección este.

L1 es un M4 de 30m.
L2 es el Crux M6, de muy buena calidad y divertida de escalar.
L3 comienza con un M6 de 15m, luego se vuelve menos difícil y continúa con un M4. Hicimos L4 simultáneamente hasta la cima; También puedes hacer lanzamientos individuales.  Mucha gracias a todos que ayudaron en equipo y información @hermanospou, @andescampinghuaraz, @andeankingdom, @montandes, @jinettmarjori @micherquito @sport_gatt ❤️ taken in Cordillera Blanca by @gruber_alex
28
a year ago
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Steep days in the Tre Cime. Scoiattoli Edge + Hasse Brandler

I’ve wanted to climb the Hasse Brandler on the Große Zinne for a long time, and I waited quite a while for the right moment to finally go for it.
The dream was to climb it free — without falling and without pulling on pitons. And this time, that dream came true :)

Such amazing climbing on both routes, incredible rock and an unforgettable experience in the Tre Cime. 🤘🏼⛰️
@ronnie_1999  @sport_gatt  @lasportivagram taken in Tre Cime di Lavaredo by @gruber_alex
10
2 months ago
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Back in the Wilder Kaiser for another day of excellent climbing.

Spiel der Narren— without a doubt, one of the best lines on the Predigtstuhl.

Some more photos from other great days in the Wilder Kaiser this season:

Photo 6–7  Totenkirchl Westwand Z
Photo 8  Pumprisse
Photo 9  Clearwater — rope solo
Photo 10  Gral, Predigtstuhl  #sportgat #lasportivagram #climbinglife #wilderkaiser taken in Wilder Kaiser by @gruber_alex
1
2 months ago
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Celebrating the longest day of the year and the power of light 🌕
The light that surrounds us, giving life to nature and all living beings.
Honoring the light that lives within us, our soul, our wisdom, our true essence.🌀
May this fire remind us to shine brightly, embrace gratitude, and carry the warmth of this season in our hearts ❤️‍🔥

#summersolstice#sonnwendfeuer by @gruber_alex
9
4 months ago
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Good times, good lines and even better company 
Ski mountaineering on Les Droites in the Mont Blanc massif and a ski traverse through the Ötztal Alps 🎿🏔️
Ready to put the skis in the cellar :) taken in Chamonix Mont-Blanc, France by @gruber_alex
1
5 months ago
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It always feels great to spend time in these stunning mountains. We climbed the Supercouloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul — what a line. taken in Chamonix Mont-Blanc, France by @gruber_alex
4
7 months ago
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Standing in front of this ice wall, and even more the thought of climbing it, felt unreal. A few hours later with pumped forearms and several exhausting meters of climbing behind us it was done!  @ronnie_1999 @sport_gatt by @gruber_alex
1
9 months ago
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December review..
•
Auf der Suche nach Eis (und gfunden) mit der @anna.truntschnig bevors wieder warm worden isch... dann leider an Unfall mit meiner besten Freundin (Guate Besserung @dlenamaria 💪🙏)... Zeigt oam wiederamal, dass nit immer alles super lauft und a mal was schief gehn kann (wär ja scho fast naiv)...
Guate Freunde und gmiatliche Touren haben aufjedenfall gholfen, den Unfall zu verarbeiten🙏
Und obwohl i eigentlich immer gsagt hab, dass i fix nie irgendwo einsteigen werde wo no koa Mensch war, sein ma dann doch mit vielen Hackln und schweren Rucksäcken ins Ungewisse gstartet.. leider dann doch umdrehen müssen. Aber aufjedenfall haben ma a Gaudi ghabt,viel dazua glernt und no mehr motivation zum noamal probieren..
•
#mammutswiss1862 #mammut #scarpaclimb #scarpa #haewear @mammut @scarpa_at @haewear @nemoequipment taken in Dolomiten - Südtirol by @gruber_alex
0
9 months ago
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Already some months have passed since I enjoyed the beauty of Peruvian mountains and this journey. 
Crashing some ice for a good cocktail of pisco sour after the climb of „mi carnal“ with @ikanirasta 🧊🍹 The first picture is on top of urus oeste after a great climbing day in new terrain.  #climbing #perumountains #andes #mixedclimbing #sportgatt #andescamping taken in Cordillera Blanca by @gruber_alex
1
a year ago
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Austria and Chile meet in Chamonix. Gran Capucin, a grandiose climbing  #climbinglife #mountains #alps #chamonix #sportgatt taken in Chamonix Mont-Blanc, France by @gruber_alex
4
a year ago
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After the first adventures we had a relaxing day in the sun, eating a lot and thinking about the mountain in front of us along with the idea of the line we saw previously.  Early in the morning we went directly to it, gave it a try and it turned out to be successful. „El suspiro del quenual“ was born.  Urus Oeste || 
El suspiro del quenual

A nice route of mixed climbing.
The first and second pitch in the gully are aboute M4-M5-, the ice is delicade and does not allow protection of ice screws. P3 then follow the gully to the end, in front of the wall, traverses to the right and follow the most logical way . Once you see an offwith to the right on an obvious crack system, you are able to climb the crack sytem P4, M6- about 30m great to climb,
After that pitch you climb about M4 to the summit (IT’S about 140m of climbing).

Decending the route offers diffrent options, we descended in direction of urus oeste until it goes steep up to the urus oeste, there is an obvious gully. We rappeld to come in to it, climbed down a bit and rappeled down the steep sections  Urus Oeste || 
El suspiro del quenual

Una bonita ruta de escalada mixta.
El primer y segundo largo en la canaleta es M4-M5. El hielo es delicado y no permite la protección de los tornillos de hielo. P3 sigue la canaleta hasta el final, frente a la pared, cruza a la derecha y sigue el camino más lógico para la travesía. Una vez que ves un desvío, ir a la derecha hacia un sistema de fisuras evidente, podrás escalar el sistema de fisuras P4, M6-, de unos 30 m.
Después de ese largo, asciendes por M4 hasta la cima (son unos 140 m de escalada).

El descenso ofrece diferentes opciones. Nosotros descendimos en dirección a Urus Oeste, donde hay una canaleta evidente. Rapelamos de un bloque grande para bajar a la canaleta de nieve/hielo  y rapelamos en las secciones empinadas abandonando un par de estacas.  #andescamping #sportgatt #cordillerablanca #mountaineering #mixedclimbing #climbinglife #mountains taken in Cordillera Blanca by @gruber_alex
8
a year ago
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