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Guided Exposure

@guidedexposure

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•Mountain Guides •Rock, Alpine, Snow
•Climbing, Split/Ski, & Avalanche Education
•Domestic and International: WA | AK | NWY🇳🇴 | JPN🇯🇵 | CAN🇨🇦 | GRN 🇬🇱

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Top Rope Solo Ice Anchor: V Thread Fixed Rope

As with any anchor its only as strong as the medium its built in. Ice is constantly changing and needs thoughtful evaluation and reassessment. But when the ice is in a cool shaded location and is mature, not too fresh, or too rotten, then a V Thread is very strong and reliable.

This V Thread location was on a good ledge or bench with a good stance but exposed behind me. Overhead hazards were primarily rolling rocks from low angle glacier above, and this panel of ice faced north west and was in the shade early in the day. In the afternoon the ice received more sun and subsequent melting.

Since I was fully loading this anchor I opted to place a back up ice screw for peace of mind and redundancy. Then I continued to reevaluate its integrity after each lap down and back up.

Some Key Considerations:
Is the ice string and reliable enough?

Are the screw holes deep enough to be strong?

Will the anchor melt out?

#iceicebaby #vthread #iceclimbing #techtip #glaciology by @guidedexposure

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4 days ago

Spring in the high Arctic, when the sun stretches toward 24 hours and the snow is still holding.

Skin tracks starting from the sea. Arctic fox tracks stitched across the snow. Walrus stacked on the ice like driftwood.

Scope out what Svalbard has to offer. Jere Burrell rode it and wrote it. Link in bio.

#slaypow #splitboarding #backcountry #snowboarding taken in Svalbard, Northernmost Norway by @guidedexposure

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7 days ago

Personal Gear for Rock Climbing: Sport & Trad

This is the gear I keep as a standard personal equipment while rock climbing. From Single Pitch to Multi Pitch sport and traditional climbing. Including alpine and cragging this kit accommodates belaying from above and below, rappelling, cleaning anchors, and rescue scenarios.

Since this video was made the old worn carabiners have been replaced and a Petzl Connect Adjust has found its way onto my harness, although I may not bring this into an alpine climb such as Forbidden or Shuksan where the 120cm sling shown here would be just fine. And 1 item that’s missing is a nut tool for cleaning traditional protection.

Also if you watched the previous video, How to rack up in 75 seconds, my harness already had gear on it. This is what lives on my harness already.

What standard personal gear do you keep on you?

#rockclimbinglife #tistheseason #sendit #sendtember #techtiptuesday by @guidedexposure

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10 days ago

Rack up to ROCK CLIMB IN 75 seconds!

Packing and Racking up to climb has become quite an organized thing over decades of climbing. From the order you pack your bag, to the way gear is packed on slings and your harness, to the way you harness your gear. Creating a system that you can be consistent with is the key to efficiency when time crunches are at hand.

Work and family obligations, weather, enthusiasm all contribute to our limited time at the crag so having a plan to maximize the send leads to happier days.

Follow along with my strategy and see if you can take some of this into your day of climbing.

#sendtember #techtiptuesday #fast #rack #rockclimbing by @guidedexposure

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14 days ago

Back to seasonally appropriate content: Sendtember is in Session

September and October are ideal times of the year for rock climbing through out the Western U.S. from here in Washington State, down to Smith Rock Oregon, the Eastern Sierra and Yosemite in California, and Red Rock Nevada. All of these zones are world famous and we have spent years climbing around them all. If you’re looking to join a scheduled course offering the best price for a climbing experience or a custom climbing adventure Guided Exposure is in Full Send Mode, now through the end of octobver when we start skiing again. Rock On!

#rocktober #sendtember #latesummer #send #letsgo by @guidedexposure

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21 days ago

2026/2027 Early Bird Pricing Ends August 31st

All of our winter trips offer more value:
✅ Full Size All Wheel Drive Vans
✅ Backcountry Terrain Wizardry
✅ Mountain Weather Tea Leaves
✅ Small Groups with AMGA Ski Guides
✅ Culturally Sensitive Ethics

What we don’t offer:
🛑 Sacrifice Pow for Party
🛑 Only Lift Accessed Riding
🛑 Crossing the street with out a green light

#earlybird #backcountryskiing #wizard by @guidedexposure

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a month ago

Glacier Travel is all about Crevasse Avoidance. This is sometimes easy and sometimes difficult. But when a crevasse and snowbridge are obvious go and investigate a little. A quick look at this crevasse showed the existing track was fairly supported underneath. Although trending a little climbers right would have ensured no surprises.

Go take a look, get some info, and modify the existing track to avoid having to arrest a crevasse fall. Minimize your “it’ll be fine” risk management strategy and figure out if the risk you’re managing with matches your ability to perform an intervention.

It’s late season on the glaciers and snow ridges are harder to see since the surface is likely planar and not sagging. A classic clue. Be diligent and enjoy the rest of the late summer alpine season

#alpinism #glacier #travel #skills #paybills by @guidedexposure

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a month ago

We’ve been hearing it, the climate forecast is confident, now what? Just sit back wait and find out?

We are busy investing in the future, arranging logistics, confirming reservations, pinpointing zones, lining out schedules all so we can show up, shred, and make ourselves content knowing we invested in our future happiness.

Have you made that investment yet?

#super #elniño #shred #consultants #backcountryskiing by @guidedexposure

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a month ago

Test your systems! How strong is a V Thread?

During a recent summit of Mount Baker we introduced and reviewed glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills. This allows the team to travel with confidence while front loading info for continued education in everyone’s progression. This late in the summer there is a lot of dry glacier during a summit climb. This means there is no longer seasonal snowpack on the glacier and it has melted down to last years glacier ice. So if a crevasse fall occurs near exposed ice than a standard T Trench or vertical mid clip snow anchor wont cut it for a rescue. So ice screws are mandatory in mid to late summer to create a proper anchor for crevasse rescue.

As part of an ice anchor progression we learn how to place, assess, and trust ice screws, and their much more durable and lasting sibling the V Thread. In this demo we built a v thread, then chipped the ice away until failure. Using a back up Ice Screw for when the moment of truth occurred everyone is surprised by how little ice is left holding a load just before it blows.

Ice is a dynamic medium and changes frequently so testing these systems in different conditions provides us with more experience to lean into future scenarios. Enjoy!

#iceicebaby #glaciers #kulshanprovides #hirelocal #yearroundambiance by @guidedexposure

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a month ago

Documenting my guided climb of Mt Rainier with @guidedexposure !

⚠️ Don’t attempt this without proper training, equipment, and experienced guides like Jere from @guidedexposure ! Mount Rainier is a serious glaciated peak that can be deadly by @guidedexposure

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2 months ago

Come see for yourself, from the summit to the sea

Mount Baker is a scant 45 miles from tidewater sea of the Puget Sound and the Salish Sea. Looking off further the Straight of Juan de Fuca transports pods of Killer Whales out to the Pacific. While the Straight of Georgia funnels cold arctic air in winter , straight into the massive vertical relief of Kulshan.

Shooting up over 10,000 vertical feet the views over the fertile flood plains of the Skagit and Fraser River Deltas that provide abundant local farm grown fruits and vegetables and some of the most diverse salmon species on the west coast. Beyond that the stunning Olympic Peninsula, Mount Olympus, Mt Rainier, and Dakobed (Glacier Peak) rise above the lower ranges.

Of course you must come see for yourself, but until then welcome to our little slice of heaven that we share with our awesome guests.

#kulshanprovides #watermaker #ecosystems #stunningviews by @guidedexposure

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2 months ago

V Thread Rappells are the gold standard in ice descents

During our summer ice season we instill these skills with our guests so they can carry them on into their alpine careers.

Even though the terminus of the glaciers have been melting away and creating dangerous serac collapses there are areas to explore with more certainty.

Not sure what to look for? Just ask

#iceclimbing #seracs #techtip #glacier by @guidedexposure

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2 months ago