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happy60mins

@happy60mins

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Vacheron Constantin
Traditionnelle 270th Anni Edition
 When a maison kicks off 2025 with one of their most iconic model (222) in a coveted material (steel), you’d think it’s gonna be hard to top that. Fast forward a few months in W&W2025, Vacheron launched the horological equivalent of an inter-galactic supernova-inducing missile: The Solaria, a 41 complication masterpiece of a wristwatch. Talk about shooting for the stars.   2025 isn’t just any year for Vacheron after all. It’s their 270th anniversary. In a year of greatest hits, the only downside is over-satiation. Which is why this limited edition Traditionnelle ref.82172 is a much welcomed ‘palate cleanser’ amidst a slew of banging releases.

It doesn’t chime the time, nor indicate the position of your favourite star via a rattrapante and celestial vault display. What this rose gold Traditionnelle does very well, is slipping under the radar and my shirt cuff #NWA. Thank you, VCSG @iris_vcion @gael_porte for this piece 🧧🧧 More details in the next post. One last thing - strap. It’s actually a rubber strap, with a very fine, fabric-like texture available only for this year.   TLDR: Doing better doesn’t (only) mean breaking records, but refining existing gems. Bravo, Vacheron. by @happy60mins

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a year ago

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Ref 82172 CEP

When you ask those who really know, simplicity is difficult. After all, one cannot hide behind the bells and whistles.
So while having one of best sushi meal of my life, I asked the Itamae (sushi master) which is more important, rice or fish. He said rice 🍚  Vacheron’s Traditionnelle is like Rice; looks simple, taste simple. Compared to something like a skeletonised perpetual calendar, this ref. 82172 is just a watch with 3 hands. Yet, like the plain white carb, it is also a foundation for greater things.  
Don’t believe me? Just look at the latest release of retrograde Tourbillon ref. 6010T. Same case design, albeit larger at 41mm case vs the 38mm here. Despite being the ‘entry’ level watch of Vacheron’s catalog, every detail of the Traditionnelle is pored, no - obsessed over by someone like @the.d.max in the manufacture.   To me, focusing on something simple means you care. Wearing this Traditionnelle ref. 82172, I certainly feel like I’m being cared for. If you’re curious to know more about this TLC, you can find them at happy60mins.com/ or click link in bio.   TLDR: Rice is Nice
p.s: @waitlisted ❤️🤓 by @happy60mins

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3 years ago

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Self-winding Openwork ref. 43178

With less than one week to Watches & Wonders 2024, I’m sure you’re wondering what new watches would be released. Me? I wish Vacheron will make a skeletonised time-only Overseas 4520/SQ. While we’re in the midst of dreaming, make that in Titanium, please. Hey, at least I didn’t ask for ref. 2000V.   Daydreaming aside, here’s an actual openwork dial for your viewing pleasure - my Traditionnelle ref. 43178. I didn’t wind it up fully so the mainspring is more ‘slack’ and exposed.

As with the standard Traditionnelle ref. 82172, case diameter is 38mm. But unlike the usual manual wound Cal. 4400, this ref. 43178 is powered by a self-winding movement. Yes, it’s the ultra-thin Cal.1120.   This will also be the theme of my next article - Skeletonisation. Stay tuned! by @happy60mins

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3 years ago

Audemars Piguet Calibre 7122

As usual in Part III, here’s a movement shot of the Neo Frame - Calibre 7122. This is essentially the same movement as the modern ‘Jumbo’ Royal Oak/ref. 16202 - Cal.7121, with jumping hour mechanism. The watch nerd in me wants to nitpick about not having a shaped movement. Truth is, I’m not fussed about having a shaped movement/rectangular movement in this case. The symmetry of two golden bridges supporting the balance wheel and barrel is more than enough beauty for my eyes. Perhaps I’m not so geeky after all 🤓 by @happy60mins

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a month ago

Audemars Piguet Neo Frame

In a secret ploy to ensure proper succession of my watches, I’ve been inculcating horological love in my offsprings. Step one, read the time. Who knew reading numbers off two hands is harder than getting them to shower. My ploy is not going too well. So imagine my surprise when they rattled off “the time is 1051” with just one glance on this Neo Frame. Damn you, iGod.
 ‘Digital’ display of time isn’t new and neither is jumping hour. IWC did it first in 1885 with Pallweber’s pocket watch. Then AP (1921) and Cartier (1928) with wristwatches. The style of yore is encased entirely in metal, revealing only hour and minutes via two little windows or guichets. Yes, it’s also where Cartier’s Tank à Guichet got its namesake suffix.   Calling jump hour a ‘complication’, is a little complicated. After all, it only tells time. To make the ‘hour’ jump however, requires a touch of magic. Watch engineers would scoff and say it’s just an interplay of snail cam and hooked lever arm with a twelve spoked wheel. But isn’t that what magic is all about; hiding the inner workings from plain sight. Don’t get me wrong though, I would still love a skeletonised Neo Frame.

Not everything needs to be explained - or worse, mansplain - that this AP Neo Frame isn’t a fitness tracker. Whoops (intended). All I had to do was get my kids to pay extra attention on the 59th minute. When the hour frame jumped with a tactile sound and all, this watch received a praise of the highest order “ooh wow, that’s so cool”. I guess my succession plan is on track.   TLDR: Whoops, I did it again. #NWA.
p.s: swipe and wait for the dramatic ‘jump’ by @happy60mins

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a month ago

Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2550 
During my visit to Vacheron’s manufacture last year, I sensed they were doing things differently. They have to. After all, watch collectors today aren’t the same customers of yore. We do not sit around and wait to be told what’s good. We let Claude do that for us. Sad, yet true. At least I can be sure Vacheron isn’t prompting AI to come up with the next big hit or we would have seen ‘Square Overseas in white ceramic, rainbow gem-set, openwork ultra-thin’.

Jokes aside, what AI most certainly would NOT have said is “micro-rotor for extra-thinness, double barrel for extra power reserve”. And that ladies and gents, is this Cal.2550 you see here.

A well-fitted Uniqlo T-shirt and jeans look better than an ill-fitted Armani suit, is the best way I can explain case-to-movement ratio. Cal. 2550 is completely re-designed from the ground up; a modern movement for a modern watch (30.6mm dia). It’s not just a (good) looker. In fact, the best part about Cal. 2550 is what we can’t see - 80 hours of power reserve thanks to a stacked double barrel system. TLDR: It’s bloody brilliant^ - swipe to read the long story.

I have on many occasions belaboured the lovely folks at VC to (re)make their ref. 2000V, a mythical grey dial Overseas ultra-thin released in 2016. For once, I’m happy they didn’t listen to me nor some AI slop.  
I’ll just let the numbers speak: 40mm to 39.5mm 7.5mm to 7.35mm  40 hours to 80 hours of power reserve

They made it better than before because what got them here today, will (may) not get them there. And they do it better because it’s always possible ;) Thank you for letting me be a part of this historically important milestone 🎂

TLDR 2.0: what got us here, will (may) not get us there.

^Just to be clear, stacked barrel for extra power reserve isn’t novel. Other renowned manufactures (Chopard) have done it before. In fact, Vacheron’s own twin-beat runs on something similar. Conventionally with multiple barrels, torque is released in series. Think of it like carrying multiple water bottles on a marathon. You finish one before moving on to another.

Cal.2550’s two barrels run in tandem, and yet have a constant power re by @happy60mins

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2 months ago

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Extra-Plat Ref. 2500V   Holding this 39.5 x 7.35mm watch in hand, I was reminded of a viral video. A scrawny cleaner (actually a pro power lifter) asked gym bros twice his size for lifting tips. Some sniggering and scoffing later, he proceeds to wipe the floor with their ego by lifting whatever weight they were doing, and more. I understand the bewilderment they must have felt. How could something so slender pack so much punch?  
This ref. 2500V is the first Overseas in 30 years to be fully rendered in platinum. Or maybe in Vacheron’s entire 271 years of existence. I think of Platinum like the metal of kings; heftier for sure, but also more lustrous, more enduring shimmer than any other gold. Its natural high density consequently makes it more harder (pun intended) to craft and finish. Some bloke back in manufacture probably shed more than six teardrops mirror-polishing the maltese-inspired ‘blades’ on the bezel.

All jokes, I start to reconcile my aforementioned mental aberration between thinness and heft when I chanced upon this watchmaking phrase: Extra Plat; French for extra-flat/thin. Well played, Vacheron. Well played.   TLDR: Extra Plat =/= Extra Platinum by @happy60mins

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2 months ago

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-thin Ref. 2500V
 Let me start by saying what Vacheron isn’t saying. It’s the 30th anniversary of their Overseas collection, but this ref. 2500V isn’t an anniversary edition of the original ref. 42040. After all, this isn’t history on repeat. This is history in the making.  
If you want faithful homage, look for Vacheron’s Historiques 222. While we’re at it, look at AP’s 16202 and Patek’s latest ref. 5610; both 50th anniversary editions of their respective icons, the Royal Oak (ref. 5402 c.1972) and the Nautilus (ref. 3700 c.1976). Almost identical in form, but with modern technical upgrades. Touché. Now look up Vacheron’s Gen I ref.42040 in salmon (swipe), and you can almost hear MJ’s Billie Jean playing in your head: “but the kid is not my son..”
 Jokes aside, I hope this Overseas self-winding ultra-thin ref. 2500V is the kind of stuff that my offsprings will chase after in future. For now, I will try to make history with VC and be part of this 255 piece limited edition. Thank you Vacheron Constantin for finally relenting to our collective behest and (re)releasing this future icon of a watch. Thank you VCSG team, always.   TLDR: #NWA
p.s: ref. 42040 wristshot courtesy of dapper @valentin_tremaud, champagne not included 🥂 by @happy60mins

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