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On July 3, we set out on an expedition to climb Alpamayo — one of the most beautiful mountains in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca.
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By July 7, we reached high camp. We had planned to take the Ferrari Route, but a hazard forced us to pivot to the French Direct — a steep, technical line that hadn’t been climbed in recent seasons due to unstable conditions. Our guides climbed the French Direct in advance to assess it. After determining it was safe, they set anchors, and cut a path to the summit ridge.
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Late on July 8, we left camp and climbed through the night.
Six hours. Nine pitches. Two tools.
At 5:57am on July 9, we reached the knife-edge summit ridge.
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An unforgettable journey to the top of Alpamayo (19,551 feet) — and an unreal experience to stand on that peak.
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Huge thanks to our fearless guides @robrtomorales @nicolas_navarrete.ec @micherquito @alpenglowexpeditions for making it possible — and to an incredible crew who always believed we were better than “50/60” 💪😉
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@csamsmithmd @marcf08 @nhberes89 @_thomasgoebel

#Alpamayo #FrenchDirect #CordilleraBlanca #AlpineClimbing #PeruMountains #blackdiamond #mammut #petzl taken in Alpamayo 5947m by @howieliao
15
a year ago
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Severe weather prevented the summit attempt on our original Aconcagua expedition and made us return to Mendoza.  The day before our flights home, the weather forecast suggested a short window conducive for a summit attempt.  I cancelled my flight home and hauled my gear back to Aconcagua to attempt an audacious 4-day summit plan.  At 12:52pm January 4th, we reached the top of Aconcagua (22,841 feet / 6,962 meters), the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere.  An amazing journey and I’m grateful to have shared it with incredible members of the team @emilyrliao @kaelyn.jenny @run_bold_bill.  I’m thankful for our guides @solitude66 @amd_guide for providing leadership (and extra WAG bags :)). Special appreciation to @alpenglowexpeditions @aconcaguavision for organizing the expeditions.  Lastly, @emilyrliao thank you for your support and always believing in me. taken in Aconcagua Summit 6,962m by @howieliao
11
4 years ago
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Significant snow fall prevented our summit bid on Chimborazo. The view was spectacular though!  #ecuador #chimborazo taken in Chimborazo by @howieliao
4
4 years ago
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The Spaghetti Traverse — a week above 3,500m, five huts, Switzerland into Italy and back into Switzerland. 🇨🇭🇮🇹

Alpine starts, roped travel across heavily crevassed glaciers, climbing ice walls, and one ridge on Castor we crossed on our knees because the gusts wouldn’t let us walk it.

Two of us on a rope for a week and still speaking 😘. Love you babe! @emilyrliao 

Thanks Sigi for your patience and never making it look hard. @mountain_tracks #spaghettitraverse #zermatt #grenzglacier #matterhorn taken in Monte Rosa Massif by @howieliao
5
2 months ago
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The Lumineers at O2 Arena in London, May 24, 2025 #thelumineers #thelumineers2025 taken in O2 Arena London by @howieliao
0
a year ago
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We experienced something extraordinary at 16,000 feet on the ascent of Volcan Irruputuncu, an active volcano straddling Chile and Bolivia - an up-close encounter with not one, but four Andean condors. With wingspans that average 9-10 feet, these birds are among the largest flying animals on Earth, and with only 6,700 adults left, seeing them was amazingly lucky. 

The day culminated with summiting Volcan Irruputuncu at 16,939 feet (5,163 meters) and descending to the edge of its bright yellow crater and suffocating from the sulfur fumes. 

#exploratravel #andeancondor #bolivia #volcanirruputuncu by @howieliao
4
2 years ago
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The scenery on the Aconcagua expedition was breathtaking.  Thanks @alpenglowexpeditions, @solitude66, @amd_guide, @aconcaguavision for the leadership on the mountain.  Even though poor weather conditions prevented this summit attempt, loved the company of the climbers on the team.  @emilyrliao @run_bold_bill @kaelyn.jenny taken in Aconcagua by @howieliao
2
4 years ago
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Naomi made a new friend! taken in The Butterfly Farm Aruba by @howieliao
1
4 years ago
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Despite the constant snowfall we summited Cotopaxi! (19,347 feet / 5,897 meters) #cotopaxi #ecuador by @howieliao
7
4 years ago
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Getting caffeinated and warmed up! #cayambe #ecuador taken in Cayambe by @howieliao
3
4 years ago
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View of Cayambe from Rucu Pichincha.  Hope to summit Cayambe in a couple of days!
#cayambe #rucupichincha #ecuador taken in Rucu Pichincha by @howieliao
4
5 years ago
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View from Domino Park tonight #911 #neverforget taken in Domino Park by @howieliao
0
5 years ago
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