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As a route developer, it’s hard not to be critical when you travel somewhere and see weird bolting situations. This was an easily accessible 5.3 route off the first pullout of the scenic drive loop. Someone added a new anchor (thank you!), but then left the old anchor about three or 4 feet above it. It’s an easy approach and could be fixed in less than an hour by somebody with a wrench and a hammer. When you get to the second pitch there’s no bolts at all! However, the lower section of this wall is practically grid bolted. I do like some fresh bolts that are thoughtfully placed but don’t understand why the old bolts wouldn’t get removed. Any thoughts? #climbing #routedevelopment #redrocks by @johnny2splat
6
21 hours ago
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Some fun on Group Therapy at Red Rocks. Funny that each of us thought we got the best pitches. Ever had that experience climbing? Guess they are all fun. #likeaboss #climbing #redrocks by @johnny2splat
2
a day ago
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Slinging chicken heads and having fun climbing at Red Rocks this weekend. #climbing #redrocks #chickendance by @johnny2splat
1
a day ago
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Have you rapped with a tag line/pull cord? Some think it’s dangerous but it can be done safely. This doubles your rap length without doubling go the weight of the rope. But it is not without its challenges. You must rig it correctly and you may have trouble pulling the skinny 6mil cord attached to a full size rope. My experience is that you are a lot more likely to get the 6mil snagged on something in the process. Let me know your thoughts. #climbing #sedona #aidclimbing by @johnny2splat
5
10 days ago
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This is a 511 minus free Climb, but actually makes a great practice aid Climb because it’s over hanging in a little awkward in spots. And takes gear pretty well.#climbing #aidclimbing #sedona taken in Sedona, Arizona by @johnny2splat
3
23 days ago
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I’ve been climbing for 40
Years and never thought about knot migration. I read Andy Kirkpatricks excellent essay on the issue and wanted to better understand it. We used the skinny rope (5.5 mm) and a standard climbing rope. This is what happened. I would suggest you put the fat side through and ‘biner block it. We did tie a knot in the end of the skinny rope and it slipped through my rap device! #climbing #sedona by @johnny2splat
59
23 days ago
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Nice to have some of these young guys help me out with that development. However, I realized that Rocks definitely fall on the Belayer so maybe I should get back on the sharper end? #climbing #sedona #routedevelopment What good is a helmet if you never use it right? by @johnny2splat
2
a month ago
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Funny how it doesn’t look spooky from my angle while I’m filming Jason. It’s definitely spooky though. Well, I think traverses are spooky. I bolted the traverse on lead from stance in my approach shoes so I guess it can’t be that hard. But definitely keeps you paying attention.#climbing #sedona #routedevelopment by @johnny2splat
0
a month ago
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#climbing #sedona #firstascentclimbing taken in Sedona, Arizona by @johnny2splat
3
a month ago
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#climbing #beer #hiking #sedona by @johnny2splat
2
a month ago
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Finally finished another route in West Sedona. We’re calling it Bromanceasaurus. I think I started this one over a year ago and had a fixed line on it for, let’s just say “a while“. Today’s task was to finish replacing the temporary bolts with permanent bolts and patching any holes where I went a little bit off route and then changed my mind. Am I the only one that hates Traverses? I keep thinking I’ll get used to them one day. I don’t know why they spook me out so much. Let me know if you guys have figured out the secret sauce to doing Traverses. This one is actually a relatively chill bolted, traverse, but the exposure will keep you paying attention. Also, pitch 1 is probably 10 minus. Pitch two is probably mid 10. (it includes the traverse which is easy) and pitch three is probably 11 minus off-width. I’ll get it posted on mountain project soon. It’s around the corner from T – Rex..#climbing #climbingtaiwan taken in Sedona, Arizona by @johnny2splat
2
a month ago
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Adding more ram’s horns to my anchor set ups in Sedona. If you’re a route developer, you can find these things on the HowNot2 website. If you don’t know how to use these, EvanWisheropp has a good YouTube video.#evanwisheropp #climbing #quads #sedona by @johnny2splat
2
2 months ago
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