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Alex Luger

@luger_alex

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Professional climber - Psychotherapist
🇦🇹 Austria
@arcteryx @dmm_climbing @lasportivagram @beal.official @evileye.eyewear @climbskinspain @hilti

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Sportclimbing at home. @dmm_climbing taken in Vorarlberg by @luger_alex

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20 days ago

Yesterday was a special day as I went with @piojutz to my first ascent project in the Rätikon to inspect some of the higher pitches. Without big expectations I started to climb the first couple of pitches in the sun and everything worked surprisingly well. With every pitch I managed to send the inner tension was building up……. And instincts started to kick in.
First free ascent of Aionos 8a.
Thanks Pio and all my friends for the support and time spent on this climb
My personal end of the trilogy with #thegift and #seventhdirection taken in Rätikon by @luger_alex

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2 months ago

Working on a first ascent is one of my favorite things in climbing…. @arcteryx @arcteryxdach by @luger_alex

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3 months ago

Spicy day out with @jacopolarcher Still knowing how to play the mixed game. by @luger_alex

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9 months ago

Aionos – Rätikon
350 meters. 7 pitches. Unknown terrain.
Ground-up, raw, and unfiltered — Alex Luger (@luger_alex ) climbs every first ascent from the bottom, never knowing what lies ahead. No pulling on gear, no shortcuts, no compromises.

The line emerges meter by meter, a space for adventure and self-discovery. For Alex, free climbing in unknown terrain is less about grades — and more about clarity, quality, and experiences that endure.

Aionos, first ascent 2024 · 7 pitches (350m) · Drusenfluh East Wall, Rätikon
@arcteryx @arcteryxdach
⸻

TEAM
Production: @bluegrass.mov
Director: @sebi.ganahl
DOP: @noahinsam
Camera on rope: @sebi.ganahl
Drone: @jonathan_kainzner (@tyrolaerials) & @noahinsam by @luger_alex

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a year ago

Ground-up, roh und ungefiltert – Alex Luger (@luger_alex) macht Erstbegehungen grundsätzlich von unten, ohne zu wissen, was kommt. Diese Unbekannte schafft Raum für Abenteuer. Technische Hilfsmittel nutzt er ausschließlich zur Absicherung. Kein Hakenziehen, keine Kompromisse. Die Linie entsteht während des Kletterns. Meter für Meter. Immer begleitet von der Frage: „Wie wird es dort oben sein?“

Freiklettern in unbekanntem Gelände ist für Alex eine Form der Auseinandersetzung mit sich selbst. Es ist eine Selbsterfahrung, ein innerer Prozess, der über die sichtbare sportliche Leistung hinaus geht.

Dabei geht es ihm nicht primär um den Schwierigkeitsgrad, sondern um klare Linien, Qualität und Erlebnisse, die bleiben. Ganz nach dem Motto: Lieber weniger – dafür intensiv und beständig.

Routeninformationen: „Aionos“, 7 Seillängen (350m), Erstbegehung 2024, Schwierigkeitsgrad noch offen, Drusenfluh Ostwand, Rätikon.

📷 / 📹 @sebi.ganahl @noahinsam @jonathan_kainzner taken in Rätikon by @luger_alex

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a year ago

@arcteryxacademy @laraneumeier @paolomarazzi @achillemauri.eu @stroh.light
First days opening taken in Chamonix, France by @luger_alex

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a year ago

Der Name “Alex Luger” steht für extrem schwierige alpine Erstbegehungen vor allem in Vorarlberg und im Rätikon: Alle von unten, alle ohne Zuhilfenahme von technischen Mitteln zur Fortbewegung. Zu seinen Meisterstücken zählen wohl die Routen »7th Direction« und »The Gift« im Rätikon. Alex ist aber nicht nur ein extrem kopfstarker Kletterer mit klarer Ethik, sondern noch dazu angehender Psychotherapeut – er kann also seine Beweggründe, seinen Umgang mit Angst und seine wilden Anfangsjahre sehr gut in Worte fassen. Eine Kombi, über die ich mich immer besonders freue! Ich wünsche Euch gute Unterhaltung!
🎧 ulligunde.com/episode115 und überall, wo es Podcasts gibt.

@luger_alex @arcteryx @lacruxmagazin @kletterszene #7thdirection #thegift #psychogramm #bürserplatte #klettern #erstbegehung #rätikon #alpinklettern #kletterpodcast by @luger_alex

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2 years ago

#firstascent #steep #ground up #project by @luger_alex

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2 years ago

First ascent in the making….. not visible from this perspective but I am climbing on solid rock trough this desert of madness….. by @luger_alex

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2 years ago

Since 2018, Alex Luger (@luger_alex) has been developing ‘Seventh Direction’ from the ground up—a UIAA 11- (5.14b), 7-pitch, 220-metre route in Drusenfluh Ostwand, Lindauer Hütte, Rätikon.

If successful, it will be Alex’s hardest climb to date.

Arc’teryx Presents: Seventh Direction. Now playing via our YouTube channel. Link in bio.

🎥: @raydemski / @jasmine_ellis_projects
📸: @raydemski / @thomas_schermer

#arcteryx taken in Rätikon by @luger_alex

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2 years ago

Join Alex Luger (@luger_alex) for an insightful keynote talk on his journey as a climber, exploring life’s peaks from an existential perspective. He will emphasize that mental resilience is not about eliminating challenges or hardships from our lives. Instead, it’s about cultivating the inner strength and flexibility to navigate life’s storms with grace and courage.

For him, climbing has always been something more—a mirror reflecting the grandeur and fragility of existence. Each ascent, each pitch, is not just a step towards a summit, but a step towards self-discovery, towards grappling with the ultimate questions of purpose, meaning, and mortality.

📍 Maison des Artistes
⏰ 14:00-15:00

Visit the link in bio to learn more.

#arcteryxacademy taken in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc by @luger_alex

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2 years ago