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Maureen Fan

@morefan

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Researching family. Berkeley.

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Would never have made it through 16K-step days without protein-heavy Japanese breakfasts: yuba tofu, grilled herring/mackerel/salmon, savory steamed egg custard with crab, sixteen-grain rice, vegetable tempura, reduced-salt miso soup, part of a sophisticated “asagohan” at the Onsen Ryokan Yuen Shinjuku (under $20);

The Nezu Museum and its gardens; Herzog & de Meuron’s Prada Aoyama; Soba dipping noodles (not ramen) in an amazing Kirishima black pork and ginger sauce at FUMOTOYA at the back of the Keio Plaza Hotel, 1,630¥ / $10.25; the “Kagayaki 527” shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Kanazawa (in 2.5 hrs);

Kanazawa’s Samurai district includes the former Nomura Residence, home to a wealthy samurai family who served Kanazawa’s ruling Maeda family for 11 generations, from the 16th c. until the end of the Edo period in 1868; Edo-period Gold lacquerware by Shunsho Yamamoto in an exhibit of century-old local family-owned businesses;

Grilled fish lunch at Mizuho Higashiyama, an elegant refuge in the Higashi Chaya district with sides of sushi, miso soup, salad, vegetables, pickled vegetables, lotus root & vermicelli, and dessert, $18 for two;

Kenrouken Garden: cleaning stones of the Tatsumi Waterway, a 1632 irrigation channel that brought Saigawa River water to Kanazawa Castle, a hydraulic engineering project to help with fire prevention;

Shiguretei Tea House: Hanaikada, sort of like marzipan, made with White Kidney beans, Sugar, Mochi rice, White Aduki beans, Agar, and Trehalose; Furoshiki cloths from Muta Muta in Kanazawa’s Omicho market. They date from the Nara Period (710-794) but took off in the 14th century as a useful way to wrap clothes;

At Oden Kaiseki Kanazawa Kagami, under Chef Higashi’s watchful eye, we were treated to a dozen courses of oden 🍢 fusion, served on locally famous Kutani pottery or lacquerware. Our favorites: thinly sliced grouper with Noto salt and pink siso flower blossoms; lotus root dumpling; grilled yellowtail wrapped in hoba (magnolia leaf); tofu skin roll (fried oden); Japanese white radish sherbet with orange pickled in plum wine. With @donnakato by @morefan

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5 months ago

In the land of “good design.” From organized Shinkansen queueing and Edo-era privacy screens to ordering soba and onigiri liners that keep nori crisp. Both of us remembering Robert Fan Jr.’s ever-present professional assessment. 😏 (Leandro Erlich’s 2004 The Swimming Pool, 2004 at Kanazawa’s 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art Gallery. Gallery Shingendo in Ginza.) With @donnakato by @morefan

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5 months ago

Thur April 16, 2026. Shinjuku Gyoen has 68 varieties of cherry blossoms, some still in bloom last week. taken in Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden 新宿御苑 by @morefan

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6 months ago

Sat Jan 17, 2026: Golden Smog - Until You Came Along. #wilcoskybluesky Jeff Tweedy (Wilco), Kraig Johnson (Run Westy Run), Dan Murphy (Soul Asylum) sending a call out to Minneapolis, Gary Louris (The Jayhawks), Marc Perlman (The Jayhawks), Greg Wieczorek a.k.a. G-Wiz (The Autumn Defense) on drums, Spencer and Sammy Tweedy on backing vocals. Latergram. Please visit this fundraiser: https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-kraig-and-vic-kick-cancers-butt by @morefan

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8 months ago

Sat Jan 17, 2026 (Sun) midnight set at #wilcoskybluesky. Katie Crutchfield aka Waxahatchee, twin sister Allison Crutchfield, MJ Lenderman on drums, Brad Cook, and ? (apologies). #mustlisten. taken in Hard Rock Hotel Riviera Maya by @morefan

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9 months ago

Jan 18, 2026 #wilcoskybluesky #wilco #impossiblegermany #nelscline Hard Rock Riviera Maya by @morefan

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9 months ago

Sat Jan 17, 2026 Dan Murphy (Soul Asylum) to the people of “Minneapolis, this goes out to them.” With Gary Louris (The Jayhawks), Greg Wieczorek aka G-Wiz (The Autumn Defense), Jeff Tweedy (Wilco), and Kraig Johnson (Run Westy Run). #goldensmog #minneapolis #starman #wilcoskybluesky 2026 #thankyou taken in Hard Rock Hotel Riviera Maya by @morefan

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9 months ago

by @morefan

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a year ago

Re-living Mom’s birthday adventure: she was also curious about how the drivers managed all the hills and craters to find ever-greater lion sightings. #latergram #masaimara #wildebeest are easy prey, our guides said. by @morefan

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2 years ago

And they told us not to wear red! 🤣 They asked why Americans liked khaki so much. #masaimara #kenya #safari by @morefan

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2 years ago

Daniel, one of our guides and drivers in the #masaimara National Park, could chase a gazelle for three hours and catch it, he said, when he was young. He showed us his rubber sandals, when someone asked what shoes he wore. “We call it Firestone,” he said. Here are his tips for surviving in the bush …

“Animal just needs you to know them. If you don’t know them, it’s dangerous but if you don’t know them, no problem.”

Don’t look a lion in the eyes, hold your ground. Stay downwind of an elephant so it can’t smell you (and run downhill from it rather than up, so his ears get in his way). Cheetahs? No problem: “Cheetah don’t need drama.” But the #hippo is another story. taken in Masai Mara National Reserve by @morefan

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2 years ago

Mom’s #NationalGeographic magazine collection—which went back to the 1970s—comes to life. Who are among the most endangered?
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1) Rothschild’s giraffe (fewer than 1,400 in the wild, according to the International Fund for Animal Welfare)
3) Black rhino (only about 583 left in the wild, according to the IFAW)
11) Grevy’s zebra (about 1,956 remaining, 90% of whom live in Kenya’s conservancies, according to biologist David Bygott)
13) African elephants have recovered somewhat but are still vulnerable (2013 Great Elephant Census found 352,271 savanna elephants, a 30% drop in seven years, according to the WWF). Please donate ( list of NGOs courtesy @davidbygott )

#amboselinationalpark #lewawildlifeconservancy #masaimaranationalpark by @morefan

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2 years ago