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MotivMfg

@motivmfg

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Tradition for the future

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Wool’s water resistance comes from its fibre structure: an ultra-thin lipid layer of higher fatty acids, bound via thioester linkages, forms a natural hydrophobic barrier, while hydrophilic structures inside the fibre absorb and transport moisture outward — “repelling without, absorbing within.” Optim technology, developed by Woolmark and Nanshan Group, pre-stretches Merino fibres before spinning and releases tension during wet finishing, causing dramatic yarn contraction and an exceptionally dense fabric. Water resistance comes from structure itself — fibre gaps compressed beyond droplet penetration — not DWR or PFAS. Woolmark cites increased hydrostatic head; the 600mm figure should be verified against Nanshan’s reports. Unlike Gore-Tex’s PTFE membrane (9 billion micropores per square inch, physically isolating water from vapour), Optim lets the fibre grow into its own waterproofing, independent of coating integrity. Natural wool’s waterproofing is grown; synthetic is applied — one accepts change, one resists it.

#motivmfg by @motivmfg

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AW26, Chapter One of the 10th Anniversary Collection. Inspired by the Einstein Tower — where relativity meets architecture, translated into cut and cloth.

#motivmfg by @motivmfg

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MotivMfg AW26

the first chapter of MotivMfg’s 10th Anniversary collection, is inspired by early 20th-century experiments with time — centred on a single building: the Einstein Tower in Potsdam, near Berlin.

Built to test Einstein’s theory of relativity, the Tower collected starlight during eclipses to confirm whether light bends under gravity. Designed by Erich Mendelsohn, it is a masterpiece of German Expressionism — its organic, almost living form a marvel of engineering for its time. With permission from the Berlin State Museums, we have reproduced two of Mendelsohn‘s original sketches as prints for the season. The tower’s interplay of curved and cruciform structures has also shaped the collection’s tailoring. by @motivmfg

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MotivMfg 2026 Trunk Show — San Francisco @abfits & New York @standardandstrange

For MTO/bespoke service, please make an appointment with samuel@motivmfg.com. by @motivmfg

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To celebrate the 10th anniversary of MotivMfg, we are starting the AW26 season from a North American road show.

Sep.5th&6th, at @abfits San Francisco.
Sep.12th&13th, at @standardandstrange New York.

If you’re interested in making a bespoke MotivMfg item, please make an appointment with us: samuel@motivmfg.com

Looking forward to meeting you in person! by @motivmfg

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MotivMfg SS27 Paris showroom schedule:

Dates: June.25th-29th
Address: 3 Rue Léon Jouhaux, 75010

Our international PR agent: @neuefrontier
Our Japanese market agent: @le_berger_tokyo

We look forward to seeing you in Paris! by @motivmfg

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The feather-winged moth and ant images on the Dala Shirt are drawn from Robert Hooke’s Micrographia, published in 1665. The significance of this book lies not only in its being the first record of the microscopic world, but also in how it transformed the very act of ”looking“ — structures once invisible to the naked eye were precisely translated into engravings. The feather-like, divided fibers of the moth‘s wings, the ant’s body annotated with lettered labels — all reveal early science‘s fascination with order and taxonomy. MotivMfg repositions these images within a lightweight shirt system, turning the garment into a wearable specimen sheet, and returning the act of ”looking“ back into the everyday. by @motivmfg

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The Donnie Chinese Work Jacket — a collaboration between MotivMfg and Burg & Schild — recalls the era of Chinese workwear once worn by French sailors, dock workers, and even Picasso. The connection is immediate: large front patch pockets, distinctive knot-and-loop closures, a rounded collar, and the classic ”Bleu de Chine“ silhouette. But this is not a reproduction. The jacket went through several iterations, deliberately simplified at one stage to let the fabric speak.

That fabric is a Donegal denim, inspired by Irish Donegal tweed — traditionally woven with colourful flecks from recycled dyed wool. Applying the same idea to denim creates something unique, referencing workwear, tailoring, and heritage craft all at once. The proportions were carefully refined: lower pockets enlarged, body slightly lengthened, while the original closure placement was kept for ease of movement. The name ”Donnie“ references Donnie Yen, known for the Ip Man series — and between the fabric, the workwear roots, and the spirit of the piece, the name simply felt right.

#motivmfg #burgundschild #workwear by @motivmfg

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The warp and weft yarns are arranged tightly, reducing internal gaps within the fabric. High-density weaving yields two direct results: first, the fabric‘s physical structure becomes more stable and resistant to distortion; second, the increased friction between yarns creates a natural micro-wrinkled texture — no post-treatment required. Furthermore, high-density weaving causes light to undergo multiple diffuse reflections across the yarn surfaces, breaking down and softening the luster into a restrained, sustained shimmer.

Together, these qualities achieve: thin yet not transparent, light yet not limp — structured, and breathing. by @motivmfg

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In Novosibirsk stands a modest statue of a mouse knitting a double helix of DNA—the Monument to the Laboratory Mouse. It does not celebrate or dramatize, but quietly acknowledges the millions of lives lost to expand human knowledge. This image anchors the genetic research narrative of Motiv’s SS25 ACGT theme. Motiv invited Inner Mongolian artist DursGui—drawing on his expertise in socialist symbolism and visual narrative—to translate the sculpture into a graphic. He retained the mouse knitting DNA while stripping away sentiment, transforming it into a restrained graphic language for garments. The pattern no longer refers to a specific statue, but becomes a silent acknowledgment of sacrifice, labor, and the encoding of life.

P2Monument to the laboratory mouse
P3-7 DursGui‘s artwork

#motivmfg by @motivmfg

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Doupioni silk is a specialty raw silk reeled from a cocoon formed by two silkworms together — known as a ”double cocoon.“ Its defining characteristic lies in the coarse yarn diameter and the irregular, natural slubs or bamboo-like textures scattered across its surface. These distinctive textures are not flaws, but rather the natural outcome of two silkworms spinning in a confined space, their filaments intertwining and unable to form a uniform thread.
Traditional reeling processes once regarded such silk as inferior, as the filaments cannot be drawn continuously, resulting in uneven thickness and frequent slubs. Yet it is precisely this ”irregularity“ that became the foundation of an alternative weaving language.
The textile industry of the 1980s explored this material in depth. Craftspeople discovered that by using high-quality long-filament silk as the warp — providing stable tension and a luxurious luster — and doupioni silk as the weft — retaining its natural thickness variations — the resulting fabric achieves the textured handfeel of worsted-spun materials alongside the opulent sheen of silk.
The introduction of stripes and fine twills serves as a ”calibration“ of this irregularity. The precise orientation of the warp engages in a dialogue with the natural fluctuations of the weft: a rational framework restrains the material’s randomness without erasing it. The final fabric, from a distance, presents an orderly geometric pattern, while up close reveals a rich granular texture.
This is the refinement of doupioni silk: not using craft to conceal the material‘s nature, but using craft to allow that nature to find its proper place.

p1-3 Reference
Handbook of the collection illustrative of the wild silks of India
London,Printed by G.E. Eyre and W. Spottiswoode, for H.M. Stationery Off.,1881. by @motivmfg

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