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Download ![Schluck du Bruder sit ✅
It's been two years since I did the 8Aish crouch start but it somehow felt like unfinished business to not try the full line from a proper sit start. :) Last year however my focus was on other projects but this year I was keen again on visiting Felbertauern again 🙃
Climbing is crazy, so is the human mind. The climb itself took not even 60 seconds, but when you're entering a state of flow, time almost stands still and so many thoughts rush through your mind.
chalk up, grab the start holds, throw the heel up, keep the body position! slap with the right, sticks enough. crossover with left, hit it perfectly. right hand progresses, grab the right part of the hood! wow, the tension is insane, never felt so easy to move the left heel! left hand follows, sort those fingers in, but no thoughts about the perfect position anymore, autopilot is now on...
left heel on the ramp, is the placement good? carefully pull, yes, it sticks! now right hand launches, slopper feels sticky! left hand crosses over, pinch the hell out of it! now the tricky part...
right hand moves fast, hits the slopper, easy! cut loose, who needs proper foot technique anyway, left toe grabs the edge. release the pinch and bring the thumb up, feeling insecure, grasping for confidence, eyes on the price, drop right hand to the edge, stick!
easy moves now, toe, heel, breath, slap, breath, toe, heel, slap. this is it, no hesitation, big move! no cut loose? disappointed. somehow wanted to cut loose. doesn't matter.
point left toe on the ledge. this is it! it's gonna happen! huge movement from the hips, way more than needed, just hit that slopper! two more moves! bump again left, grab that pinch like a vice. sorting feet. final move!!!
fuck, there's no hold. confusion. no matter. i will not let go, they have to cut that pinch out of my cold hands. re-adjust, ahhh there it is! that's it?!? big ledge ahead! oh come on, so many leaves on that ledge, take your time. this will look stupid on video. what to do? waste time to remove the leaves? hmmm, there is an edge ahead, can I reach it? yes, i can!
easy now, move fast! breath! breath!
[1/2] by @mzuser](https://s2.imginn.com/502342177_1936355713865080_4390476763764454676_n.jpg?t51.71878-15/502342177_1936355713865080_4390476763764454676_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_e15_p480x480_tt6&_nc_cat=108&ig_cache_key=MzM5Mzk0MDI0NTQyOTIxODc3NA%3D%3D.3-ccb7-5&ccb=7-5&_nc_sid=58cdad&efg=eyJ2ZW5jb2RlX3RhZyI6IkNMSVBTLnhwaWRzLjU0MC5zZHIudmlkZW9fZGVmYXVsdF9jb3Zlcl9mcmFtZS5DMyJ9&_nc_ohc=y_r1_E2CzKkQ7kNvwGiRP3x&_nc_oc=AdqmclHBbvW_dGCBHSPCdP6PunsUTkGUDcMQRLvpEsyW7PmhlbOZGgcXBlY9DdJpv0vcXtf0s8sJBhwVbJseen1U&_nc_ad=z-m&_nc_cid=0&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-mia3-3.cdninstagram.com&_nc_gid=yeOLKuGYi99YjgT1eCb_bQ&_nc_ss=7a20f&oh=00_AQPvOz1sUG9rjeDnlKf9cg5BbzU622hTg_5tgnoHEw7B1Q&oe=6AD83AF2)
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Download ![A friend once said: „Bleau doesn’t give you what you want. It gives you what you need.”, and again it proved to be right.
This year’s trips were characterized by the lack of expectations, just the prospects of dry rock, good food and leaving the darkness of last year behind.
Truth be told, I initially had a lot of plans, but I did not stick to any of them. But this was the perfect setting for leaving the heaviness of expectations behind and making room for the lightness of living in the moment again.
I still remember my first trip to Font, THE most humbling experience of my (climbing) life.
8 years ago, I scrambled up my first 7A; last week I climbed my 333rd.
And it couldn’t have been a better setting.
Perfect days do exist:
Fontainebleau in late spring smells like green moss and hot pinewood.
Sunlight reflects from greyscale boulders; the forest floor crunches like fresh baguette.
I’d been out five of the previous six days - skin thin, forearms humming like a frayed cable, shoulders gnashing like an old wooden door.
The silence of the forest was only interrupted by the chants of the birds.
My sole companion: Emilie, a French climber I bumped into earlier this week. In the last days we traded beta, shared thoughts and language lessons about dirty pants and climbing terms.
We were alone at “Bossanovabrazil”, but the good vibes and the energy were sparking.
She had already danced up the right arete, I was still fighting with the left.
Biceps aching & left knee sore, I crouched under the starting holds for probably my last attempt.
I felt committed, peaceful, no noises around, just pure focus. One big squeeze on the left sloper, trusting the worn foot smear, rotating the body, placing the heel & committing to the jump.
Slow & controlled moves transitioned into a fast & powerful one. Fingers hit the ledge perfectly, power scream for the win.
Cruise-control activated, now it was time to enjoy the last moves to the victory jug.
Seconds later I was sitting on top, looking across an ocean of green fern and grey stone.
[continued in comments] by @mzuser](https://s2.imginn.com/503279174_18507478051031198_2161528594148087974_n.jpg?t51.75761-15/503279174_18507478051031198_2161528594148087974_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_e15_p480x480_tt6&_nc_cat=104&ig_cache_key=MzY0NTQ0MTQ1NjI5OTMyODQ3MTE4NTA3NDc4MDQ4MDMxMTk4.3-ccb7-5&ccb=7-5&_nc_sid=58cdad&efg=eyJ2ZW5jb2RlX3RhZyI6IkNMSVBTLnhwaWRzLjU0MC5zZHIudmlkZW9fZGVmYXVsdF9jb3Zlcl9mcmFtZS5DMyJ9&_nc_ohc=7Jz_YondPWMQ7kNvwEVp6dp&_nc_oc=AdoJ69CDOL1AuJ9m1oUzOj0uMDcxL2msVjkegUB0Tytxp5X2p_ww-EzyIzk3FJ7nMTSC6b57x1I8ncDtv2I8-qJW&_nc_ad=z-m&_nc_cid=0&_nc_zt=23&_nc_ht=scontent-mia5-1.cdninstagram.com&_nc_gid=yeOLKuGYi99YjgT1eCb_bQ&_nc_ss=7a20f&oh=00_AQPhMpmaNWopfYbsDLGLcKkejzlWvn3kkQPt6HKO48TzRw&oe=6AD86848)
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