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Neil Gresham

@neil.gresham

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Britain’s pioneering performance coach has offered training plans since 1994 and climbed E11, 8c+ & WI 9. With La Sportiva, Petzl, Osprey & LCC.

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SIMPLIFY YOUR TRAINING AND GET THE MOST FROM A SPORT TRIP this autumn!

Are you rushing to prepare for a trip and drowning in the possibilities? Here’s my top planning tip to strip things back to the essentials. The approach boils down to the length of the training period; as follows:

1. QUICK HIT CAMPAIGN Eg. 2 – 5 weeks
Simply create a 3 or 4 day sequence and repeat it. Eg.

Day 1: Bouldering, board and/or strength exercises
Day 2: Endurance (routes, circuits or boulder intervals)
Day 3: Rest & supportive conditioning
Repeat >>
For best results, prioritise the angle or style of climbing that you’re aiming for (eg, steep with big holds or lower-angle on smaller holds)

2. LONGER CAMPAIGN Eg. 6 – 10 weeks
Simply ‘phase’ the training. Eg.

Phase 1: Base - 2 weeks
Phase 2: Strength – 2 weeks
Phase 3: Endurance – 2 weeks
Phase 4: Skills & tapering – 1 week

Create emphasis towards the theme of each phase but don’t train this exclusively and use rotating sequences within the phases.

That’s it. Go to it, or better still get me to sort if for you and apply for a personalised plan at neilgreshamtraining.com

📸 @kieranjduncan
1. Atlantis 8b, 2. Aurora 8a, Kalymnos

@lasportivauk @lasportivagram @ospreyeurope @petzl_official @kendalwall_lcc #climbingtraining #climbing_is_my_passion by @neil.gresham

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16 hours ago

my good friend Neil Gresham on Occams Razor 7C+.

I’ve spent much of my life photographing people doing things that most of us would consider impossible — climbers, mountaineers, people pushing themselves into wild places.

So photographing Neil Gresham’s journey for the film 'Back to the Deep' has been particularly special.

I’ve known Neil and photographed his journey for the last 2 years, but this is about something more than climbing. It’s about getting older and still having that burning desire to perform, to improve and to find out what you are capable of.

Deep-water soloing is a wonderful combination of movement, commitment, fear, confidence and, of course, the consequences of getting it wrong!

What I love about Neil’s story is that it isn’t about pretending that getting older doesn’t change things. It does. It’s about adapting, accepting the challenges and continuing to push the boundaries of what you thought you could do.

Perhaps that’s something I recognise myself. I’m getting older too, but I’m certainly not ready to stop exploring and seeing what’s around the next corner.

Sometimes the challenge isn’t being as good as you once were. It’s discovering just how good you can still be.

And as ever, for me, it’s all about the light.

#BackToTheDeep #NeilGresham #DeepWaterSoloing #DWS #Climbing #RockClimbing #ClimbingPhotography #AdventurePhotography #ClimbingLife #OutdoorPhotography #Pembrokeshire #Wales #WelshClimbing #NeverStopExploring #NeverStopClimbing #GettingOlder #KeepPushing #AdventureNeverStops #LearningToSee #ItsAllAboutTheLight by @neil.gresham

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3 days ago

I promise we’re shooting a climbing film! 🌊🤿 🧗‍♂️ #strugglefest 🎥 @email_today taken in Pembroke, Pembrokeshire by @neil.gresham

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3 days ago

No DWS filming for us today 😳

#returntothedeepfilm

📸 @i_am_wardog
@aslan_steel @email_today @ospreyeurope @mikeindeepwater @lasportivauk @lasportivagram

#deepwatersolo #climbing_is_my_passion by @neil.gresham

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5 days ago

I’ve devoted the last 3 years to the R&D of my new edge-lifting system and supporting methodology. It’s been a voyage of discovery which has paid me back as I now have so many more tools as a coach and my fingers have got stronger! The finishing touches are being made and I can’t wait to share my findings with you.

#greshgrip #edgelifting
#climbingtraining #climbing_is_my_passion
@kendalwall_lcc by @neil.gresham

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13 days ago

I’m excited to share news that @caileanharker has pushed UK DWS standards a notch further with his ascent of a stunning new line, Athlos 8b+. The route creates a dramatic lefthand finish to Olympiad, meaning that you have to do the majority of the hard climbing on that route and then tackle a tricky new boulder sequence, which takes you out towards the flying arête. The new moves look incredible and the position is out there.

I watched Cailean make some valiant attempts at the line a few weeks ago. It was clear that he had it in the tank and as always with Pembroke DWS, it was just a matter of finding the right day.

Cailean has certainly put time into Pembroke DWS over the years and his experience has clearly paid off here. It’s been a delight to share in his success, as well as @shaunacoxsey ‘s . For me, this has lessened the blow of not being able to repeat Olympiad myself this year, but that’s another story! : )

Well done again to Cailean. I wonder if he’ll be venturing onto some of the other lines which we discussed next year.

@lasportivauk @lasportivagram @aslan_steel @mikeindeepwater #deepwatersoloing #climbing_is_my_passion

. by @neil.gresham

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19 days ago

It was a joy and hugely inspiring to see @shaunacoxsey crush my Pembroke DWS route, Olympiad and make it look like a path! The difference between the good climbers and the really good ones like Shauna, is that they always seem to deliver when the odds are stacked against them; like, for example, when there’s only one good conditions day, it’s their first proper DWS and it’s also the hardest in the country. The really good climbers also seem to be able to have a laugh at the crag then switch to ruthless killer mode to get the job done.

Many have commented that the 8b grade doesn’t do justice to the challenges of Olympiad. It’s tricky for a host of reasons and has sent 8c/9a climbers home empty handed, yet Shauna literally blew it out of the water.

Shauna and I go back a long way. I’ve followed her career since the junior competitions and I also coached her former coach, @leahcraneclimbing . It meant so much to me to be there for her ascent (the FFA) of Olympiad and it’s a day I’ll always remember.

Thanks also to Shauna for being so supportive and encouraging during my attempts to re-climb the route.

Look out for the film on @redbull ‘s channel and I’ll share some more details about our Pembroke quest here soon.

📸 @jessglassberg

#deepwatersolo by @neil.gresham

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21 days ago

Up on Pavey Ark in the Lake District yesterday with man-of-the-moment, @matheson98 . Rob has been nominated for the @teambmc climber of the year 2026 award, not just for his outstanding ascent of the Bells the Bells E7/8 aged 75, but for generally being an ambassador for adventurous climbing and an inspiration to the ‘mature’ brigade.

In climbing we naturally gravitate towards people who share our tastes and philosophies and without realising it at the time, it was Rob’s quest to return to some of his FAs from 50 years ago that inspired my recent battles with my Kalymnos & Pembroke routes. Yesterday Rob was looking to repeat his route, Mother Courage E4 (a notoriously tough and intimidating test-piece) but it was conditions rather than fitness which stopped play. Keep any eye on his page and look out for another ‘Angry Pensioner’ production soon!

#climbing_is_my_passion #tradclimbing

@ospreyeurope @kendalwall_lcc by @neil.gresham

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23 days ago

So many ways you can play it with maintenance training but here’s one of my favourite sequences:

Day 1: Board (or directed exercises)
Day 2: Aerocap (or power-endurance)
Day 3: Gym (opposition muscles)
Day 4: Rest or climb
Repeat >>

The key is to keep the quality up and the volume down in all sessions, especially power-endurance, and if you overcook it then day 4 will need to be a rest day.

Let me know how you play your training when the aim is to get out on rock regularly.

Personalised plans available at neilgreshamtraining.com

@lasportivauk @lasportivagram @petzl_official @ospreyeurope @kendalwall_lcc @hardwoodholds @lx.grips

#climbingtraining #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_videos_of_instagram by @neil.gresham

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a month ago

Field testing my forthcoming edge-lifting system prior to climbing in the Grande Grotte in Kalymnos. Available later this year. So excited. Watch this space.

#edgelifting #climbingtraining climbing_is_my_passion by @neil.gresham

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a month ago

The lights go down and the stark, raw beauty of Hollow Caves Bay fades to black. A dramatic end to yet another dramatic day’s DWS in Pembroke.
#returntothedeepfilm

@ospreyeurope @lasportivauk @lasportivagram @aslan_steel @email_today @alunrichardson.co.uk

#deepwatersolo #climbing_is_my_passion by @neil.gresham

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2 months ago

Huge congratulations to @caileanharker for his scintillating second-go, ‘water-up’ ascent of San Simian 8a / E8 6c in Pembroke (📸 @benjamesnorman ).

This route epitomises everything that’s unique and exciting about Pembrokeshire climbing. The first ascent was made on trad by @charliewoodburn in 2004 and I made the first DWS ascent three years later in 2007 (old gits pictured here!)

Over the years, some repeat ascentionists have interpreted San Sim as a trad challenge and others as a highball DWS (it’s approx 22m at high tide). Clearly in its first guise, the challenge is placing the gear whereas in its second it’s simply the height, considering that the top part is the crux.

In recent years San Simian has been a forcing ground for standards, starting with Bob Hickish’ landmark first ‘water-up’ DWS, leading on to @siebevanhee (pictured) and @jimpopeonarope ‘s trad onsights last year.

I squared up to San Sim again and re-climbed it (after pre-practice) for our forthcoming film, Return to the Deep (📸 @alunrichardson.co.uk ) and it’s fantastic to see Cailean adding to the tally of interest in this monumental route.

@ospreyeurope @lasportivauk @lasportivagram @aslan_steel @email_today

#deepwatersolo #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_photos_of_instagram by @neil.gresham

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2 months ago