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BURDEN OF DREAMS V17/9A 

Some moments are so surreal that they feel unfinished even after they’ve happened. 

Sent 2 goes after my dab “link.” Had a flight booked for 6AM the next day. Really had to push my headspace to find sufficient presence for the send. 

Right now I am just grateful for the places this sport has brought me and the wonderful people I have met along the way. Content and striving for more. 

📸 @henkkaask 🙏. Big thanks to @yannick_flohe and @hamish_mcarthur for being my boulder buddies. 

@mountainhardwear @evolv_worldwide @tensionclimbing @asanaclimbing @rungne_official by @noahwheels
327
5 months ago
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SHAOLIN V17/9A

~Second Ascent~

Rock climbing is a process of self discovery for me. When trying at my limit, I’m forced to delve into unknown dimensions. To intuit the exact capacity of my body on the wall. To develop a strange and unique ritual that best facilitates blood flow. To master and often manipulate my determination, anticipation, and anxiety. 

Shaolin forced self-mastery more than any boulder prior. Although I could stick the crux move (an accurate v13-level left-hand throw) 75% of the time in iso, climbing a stout v13 sequence into this was a whole other beast entirely. I was forced to learn and utilize my strongest grip position on the crux hold, to understand exactly how much force and pressure I could or should generate through my feet. To calibrate a given go in relation to all other experiences on the boulder. Once this move was eventually done from the start, only after I understood my body enough to enforce pre-session and mid-try confidence did I complete the last thruchy V11/12-level throw and take it to the top. An hour later, invigorated by my experience, I managed to make my way up Trieste Sit V14/15 as well. 

Coming into Shaolin, I sought to prioritize my enjoyment of the process in seeking the final goal of sending. I leave Shaolin with a different goal - although I climb to master the boulder, I do so in order to better understand my self. 

@mountainhardwear @tensionclimbing @scarpana taken in Las Vegas, Nevada by @noahwheels
275
2 years ago
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Return of the Sleepwalker V17/9A

A one-minute dream floating on a lifetime of anxious sweats and all-nighters, a decade of reluctant youth practices that turned to stone obsessions and intense dedication. All of which aloft the good will of those around me. 

@tensionclimbing @scarpana @hitorii.design @beta_labs 

#bouldering #climbing by @noahwheels
280
2 years ago
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Back 2 Back on The Gateway (V15) 

2nd and 3rd ascent after @drewruana
@ethan_bost3 📸 by @noahwheels
121
3 months ago
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Creature from the Black Lagoon V16 

A @dawoods89 classic!

This one turned out to be weirdly in-style. The first day I tried Brace for the Cure, I pulled on the crux sequence of Creature once and linked through it fully. The day I sent Brace, I gave 1 start rip on Creature, resulting in a heartbreaking fall on the moderate-difficulty lip encounter. I returned 3 days later and took it down after an even higher lip fall the try prior. 

As pleasant as a double v16 day would have been, I’m pretty satisfied with my general disposition towards the boulder and my detachment from an arbitrary idea with little lasting gratification. Arguably the coolest movement I’ve ever done in alpine. I will also admit kneebars can be fun 🤫. 

Pics from @francoislebeau 🙏

@mountainhardwear @evolv_worldwide @asanaclimbing @rungne_official by @noahwheels
75
4 months ago
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Brace for the Cure V16 - 2nd Ascent

Great one from @matt_fultz! The climb follows the crux of Jade into a significantly more challenging cross sequence on aggressive crimps. Perhaps the most purely finger intensive climb I have done. 

I have been feeling pretty strong as of late - the climb took two days this year despite having felt out of reach last summer. Psyched to push this form further on some more theoretical projects out here in Colorado. Grateful to be doing so surrounded by such an amazing community of climbers!

Pics from the wonderful @francoislebeau 

@evolv_worldwide @mountainhardwear @asanaclimbing @rungne_official @tensionclimbing by @noahwheels
81
4 months ago
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Big Arms V14/15

First day at Lincoln Lake in a few years! This is a wonderful climb from @drewruana which I had briefly tried years ago to no avail, but which went down today in an enjoyably condensed process of learning and optimizing. Climbing at its most existentially fruitful. 

The climb itself consists of a few nuanced moves on sloped crimpers anchored by a very bad heel-toe-cam, followed by a gnarly throw in a style I am accustomed to. Best of both worlds. 

@evolv_worldwide @tensionclimbing @rungne_official @mountainhardwear @asanaclimbing by @noahwheels
54
5 months ago
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Good Link by @noahwheels
290
5 months ago
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Nuthin’ But Sunshine V13 Flash ⚡️

Great time in the park before I head out to Finland. Been board climbing non-stop recently so it was nice to get outside again. Feeling ready! 

Did the campus move after the flash of course😅

@mountainhardwear @evolv_worldwide @asanaclimbing @rungne_official @tensionclimbing by @noahwheels
42
5 months ago
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BARNDOOR 2000 

A classic southern stone testpiece from this winter. My pick for the best climb in the world (among those I’ve tried). 

This climb + my flash of brass knuckles + Jorogumo FA are in a video on the @wheel.rock patreon now. A slightly different version will go up on our youtube soon! 

P.S. slab is easily crux. Got jump maybe 3rd time getting past the slab. by @noahwheels
91
6 months ago
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Vecchio Leone 8B/V13 Flash

2 months ago I fully ruptured my left ring A2 pulley. I only started climbing on the ring finger 2 weeks ago. Rather than to seriously climb, I came out to Switzerland for a short @mountainhardwear shoot (of whom’s incredible pants I am wearing in this vid). Despite this, I could not contain my psyche and ended up hopping on one of the most legendary boulders of the grade with little expectation. Sufficed to say, my finger may be more prepared than I expected! 

Excited to come back to Switzerland ASAP with a healed pulley to take down some of the climbs I was able to scout! 

@mountainhardwear @evolv_worldwide @asanaclimbing @rungne_official by @noahwheels
108
7 months ago
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Jorogumo V15/8C FA

AKA Orb Weaver SDS. Haycock, Pennsylvania is the crag in which I began climbing outdoors. The stand, Orb Weaver, is one of the first climbs I ever sent outside. My brother and I had known of the sit project - deemed the Venom proj - since this initial encounter. But I always figured the climb was legitimately impossible. The holds are tiny - 10mm at the largest. Worse yet, they are flat. Most of the force register on the crux move comes from a 2mm sized opening you have to jam your skin into. It was only until I returned to the boulder this year, with a reshaped perspective and much stronger fingers, that I realized the boulder might be possible. 

The climb consists of a v8 or 9 intro move into one of the most difficult crimp moves I have ever done - what feels like a sharper, crimpier, left-handed Burden-style move. Maybe 1 move V12/13. The last two pictures in the slide are the left hand you throw to and cut on, and the right hand you throw from. From here, instead of matching into the stand start, the ideal beta is to load all of your weight into the flat 8mm left hand and deadpoint to a decent sloper - a 1 move 11 or 12. 

Unfortunately I am sidelined for the season due to a nasty pulley injury which occurred only a few days after the send - and possibly due to it. Despite a broadly melancholic feeling at the moment, I cannot but look forward to the unknown ways in which I will and must expand the depth of my climbing. 

📸 my mom and photographer @vikkisloviterphoto taken in Haycock Township, Bucks County, Pennsylvania by @noahwheels
112
9 months ago
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