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Tom Jagiello

@other_dsc

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Coffee, machining

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New old tool post, anyone ever seen anything similar? Google doesn't offer much in terms of manufacturer info, I think the company is long gone (Rihs Bern). by @other_dsc

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6 months ago

Here's a quick Mitutoyo magnifier holder for a dti mag base. This is x25 and really tricky to hand hold as the image is inverted and field of focus is absolutely tiny. by @other_dsc

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a year ago

Seeing this I feel like spending extra money to buy premium coffee was definitely worth it...🤮 This is a lid from a Sage (Breville) Precision Brewer. Nice machine but I always had a beef with the carafe lid, as it's plastic welded shut and there's no way to clean it. I did soak it often in various Cafizza-like mixtures but recently stumbled upon a reddit post which described how even soaking doesn't work so obviously I was curious. I did poke at the seams with all sorts but only managed to mangle the edges and break bits of plastic, so out came the Proxxon with a thin grinding disc and omfg I could smell the shite inside whilst cutting...

Anyway, clean your coffee brewers people and if it's uncleanable due to shit design, break it and clean anyway. Unless you want subtle notes of two year old batch popping on the back of your tongue. Now on to cleaning this and adding bolts to put back together and / or 3d printing a replacement.

Also, shame on @sageappliancesuk and @brevilleuk for such a bad design. Apparently the only suggested "fix" for this, is to buy a new carafe...🤦 by @other_dsc

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2 years ago

Here's some 3d printed bubble level mounts for a Makita DHP486, they clip on into the recesses for the hand mount / support and allow easier straight drilling into a wall or down into a flat surface. I cleaned up the matting surfaces with a super sharp ali endmill to make sure the levels sit flat and the whole thing is fairly accurate.

If anyone wants the STLs / Solidwork parts, drop me a line and I can send those over. Used some generic cheap bubble levels from Amazon by @other_dsc

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2 years ago

Quick drill post stop for "precise" depth drilling. M5 bolt acts like an adjustable stop and the bumper on the centre piece is held on by an M4 (it's actually fairly rigid). Quick and easy to take off if I need to go back to stock. by @other_dsc

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3 years ago

DIY'd expanding "mandrel" and it works! Used it to hold some punch heads for buffing (hence the covered bed), it's pretty much a sliding fit in the bores so you don't even need to gronk on that tiny M4 to make it hold. Only took an hour to make 😂 the saying holds true of course, the biggest part of the job is making the tool / work holding. by @other_dsc

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3 years ago

Hats off to the beautiful people at @haybcoffee for the wonderful coffee and the absolutely outstanding drawing of a unicorn 🤩🥳 whoever the artist is, thank you so so much for fulfilling our odd request 👌🥹 now, time to tuck in to the bags... by @other_dsc

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3 years ago

Another "how the fuck do you remove this" posts. Any ideas? The lock nut holds a shot bearing through which a half plastic half metal shaft goes on which a gear is pushed on. So far I've tried whacking the locknut with a pin punch to turn it and as you can see I've rounded off the corners on the cutouts nicely, but no movement :/ also tried whacking the shaft from the gear on the other side. Again, nothing apart from damage to the top of the shaft. Tried heating up the gear and whacking the shaft again, same story.

It seems like the locknut has loctite on it, but I can't heat it up due to the plastic shafty coupler sticking out. On the gear end I can't really whack the shaft straight as it sits inside the housing (unless I drill a hole in the housing on the opposite side).

The locknut is 19mm od, 16mm id, cutouts are 3mm wide and 2mm deep. Thinking of making a tool to fit that, but I only have hand tools :/ by @other_dsc

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3 years ago

Now again, I'm sure everyone knows this / does this, but still it might be useful to someone out there. If you want to hold something on a 123 block, but the "built in" bolt size is too big to go through whatever you want to hold, then cut off a piece of round stock smaller than the internal block holes, drill and tap straight through and you have a pin with a thread which you can place inside the block and bolt on to. by @other_dsc

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3 years ago

Before I completely wreck this plastic fan, anyone has any ideas on how to remove it? The circlip is pushed into a recess in the plastic body, so there's no way to expand the circlip to take it off. The plastic body is too flimsy to stick a puller on it and there's no way to grab the circlip to free up even one of the "ears" to allow it to expand. It's a fairly neat way to secure the two parts from wiggling apart, but it seems like it was only meant to be forced into place and not disassembled (at least not without cutting something apart). by @other_dsc

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4 years ago

I'm making a new ali plate to mount my Taig lathe, so had to use this little Chinese Kinto bench drilling machine to "turn" some anti-vibration washers from some funky cork like material I had stashed away ages ago. I wanted a fairly specific dia to match M6 penny washers (OCD much?), so I clamped the carriage from the Taig to the table to allow for more accurate cuts. Overall I'm pretty happy with the end result, I just hope this cork like material isn't toxic as I ended up with half of my desk covered in fine powder 🫤 by @other_dsc

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4 years ago

Some milling on the Taig lathe, interesting from a work holding and indicating perspective. Used some gauge blocks to offset the part from the carriage, indicated a parallel leaned against two gauge pins, then indicated the part's edges vs chuck to find centre. 5mm endmill to mill a flat, followed by a sot drill and 2.5mm drillbit, deburred with some Cratex rotary bits. Happy how it turned out, never done this before and boy the Taig has no stiffness 😂 by @other_dsc

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4 years ago