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PONHCRA

@ponhcra

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A living journal of artisanal discoveries, celebrating the quiet voices of hidden creators.
📍Based in Paris
[email protected]
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@richardalexandercooke founded in 2022 which, like the most ambitious among them, is committed to using only natural materials and processes. The dyes can be made from rust, black tea, or even mulberries harvested from the creator’s garden only during certain periods of the year. The waxing process used in his creations relies on natural beeswax, passed through a hot press. It softens quickly and has antibacterial properties that prevent the garment from retaining odors. This approach requires an enormous amount of time, with some pieces taking up to 40 hours to complete. The Hour 33 collection, in particular, is entirely hand-sewn and conceived as an extremely refined product. At his workshop even elements that appear raw are carefully finished: seams are reinforced, French seams are double-stitched, raw hems are protected with finishing tape, and some pieces are entirely hand-sewn using steel thread. Construction also becomes an aesthetic element. Seams are moved directly into the pattern to make them more visible, while some garments feature a double row of buttons, allowing them to be worn inside out. Geometry plays an important role in the design. Pieces are often cut according to triangular shapes, particularly from the hem upwards. The triangle is considered a particularly strong shape, capable of maintaining its structure without collapsing. The number three also becomes a kind of guiding thread: perfection, strength, and constant growth. The inspirations come from very different worlds. Music plays an important role, with the machines in the workshop sounding in syncopation with the sound of vinyl records. The relationship with natural materials and organic processes is notably connected to regular stays in Vermont, surrounded by vast forested landscapes. The colors and rust treatments are also strongly inspired by sculptors such as Richard Serra and Michael Heizer. Ultimately, the idea is to consider the garment as a sculpture for the body: not simply to make a garment, but to sculpt a shape, a material, and a patina directly around the body. Written by @LeFo_0 and pictures by @valentinrizzo Thanks to @richardalexandercooke for the interview taken in Paris, France by @ponhcra
11
2 months ago
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Since 2012, from his atelier in Germany, @leonemanuelblanck has been shaping a universe in which clothing goes beyond its primary function to become an extension of the human body. Wearing Blanck is wearing a sculpture. Leon Emanuel Blanck presented his first collection in Paris in January 2013, alone, in a small showroom in Le Marais. Prior to that, he trained in the fur industry during his studies, regularly traveling between Heidelberg and Frankfurt to work alongside Greek furriers. There, he learned how the machines operate, discovered materials in depth, and acquired a rigorous, disciplined approach to craftsmanship. His creative process is based on a constant exchange between material, form, movement, and imagination. At the center of this research lies a concept he calls “Anfractuous Distortion”, a dark and anti-conformist approach built in three dimensions, where the garment is conceived in direct connection with the human body. The form is first shaped directly on the body, then translated into a pattern. Leon Emanuel Blanck first opened his studio in Heidelberg, then in Berlin, where each piece is still entirely handmade by skilled artisans today. Some garments require up to seventy hours of work. Blanck has a certain obsession with materials. Carbon and glass fiber, military-grade tear-resistant polyurethane fabrics, Kevlar knitwear, metallic weaves, each material is selected for its technical properties as much as for its ability to create tension, reflections, and volume. Everything is carefully considered to create a true second skin. His inspiration is drawn primarily from nature, reinterpreted through a science-fiction aesthetic and a post-apocalyptic vision. All patterns are drawn and developed by hand by Blanck. Each draped sculpture is cut into individual sections, ensuring that every piece is unique. Today, his collections are available in a selection of niche boutiques worldwide, including hide[m] in Munich, BoutiqueW in Tokyo, and H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles. His work is also part of the permanent exhibition at the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Hamburg. Writen by @tony.mp3 Thanks to @leonemanuelblanck for the pictures. by @ponhcra
6
3 months ago
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@max.foucaut explores the lives of workers, engineers, farmers, and architects from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Beyond their daytime labour, his creations also explore nightlife: evenings spent in cafés, jazz clubs, intimate dinners, and the captivating atmosphere of opera houses. This waistcoat, entirely crafted and dyed in London, perfectly embodies his universe. Featuring four patch pockets on the front with dedicated tool compartments, it has a lightweight, single-layer construction that combines modern comfort with old-world charm. The fabric used for this waistcoat comes from his collection of vintage fabrics, making every piece entirely unique due to variations in the weave or embroidery, all originating from the same period. For this waistcoat, a French cotton fabric from the 1800s takes centre stage. It is crafted and then dyed by a London-based artisan specialising in botanical dyes. The medium grey shade is achieved through a two-week dyeing process, creating rich tonal variations and a natural gradient. These shades are carefully selected while embracing the irregularities inherent to artisanal dyeing, such as colour variations and darker areas. The fastenings of this waistcoat are crafted with the same level of care. The buttonholes are sewn by hand by a small London workshop dedicated exclusively to this craft, while the corozo buttons come from one of the last British manufacturers preserving traditional techniques. For Max, clothing is not a fixed object. It is designed to be worn, transformed, and lived in serving as a link between history, material, and use. Would you wear it ? Written by @baptiste_bgo Thanks to @max.foucaut for the interview and for the invitation. Photo by @valentinrizzo. Follow @ponhcra for more artisanal content. #avantgarde #avantgardefashion #maxfoucaut taken in Paris, France by @ponhcra
15
3 months ago
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@idioidas was born from the desire to strike a balance between aesthetics, #craftsmanship, and functionality. His ambition is to bring together three qualities that rarely coexist: art, craftsmanship, and wearability. Rather than creating an object that is purely conceptual or purely functional, he aims to offer a piece that genuinely contributes something new to the existing landscape. The project was developed alongside Paul, a shoemaker who worked with Maurizio Altieri, whom Leo met during his studies in Milan. Together, they develop every model, with Leo creating the prototype for the left shoe and Paul for the right. For Leo, shoemaking is a remarkable field for technical experimentation. His creations demonstrate this through one-piece patterns, comparable to origami, that eliminate visible seams and represent an exceptional feat of craftsmanship. Every design decision serves a precise purpose. The reverse construction follows the natural anatomy of the foot, while the rounded toe box and the natural upward curve of the sole reduce leather creasing and improve the walking motion. Leather taken from the front section of the horse is selected for its softness, and a memory foam insole completes the pursuit of ultimate comfort. The production process involves nearly ten highly specialized #artisans. A father-and-son workshop acts as the conductor of the project, overseeing the assembly, while each individual stage is entrusted to the finest specialist in their respective field, ensuring an exceptional level of precision and expertise. Beyond the object itself, #Idas is a deeply personal project. For Leo, the shoe is a medium through which he expresses his ideas, his values, and his vision of fashion as a language. Each pair is designed to age alongside its wearer, reflect their values, and tell their story over time. Looking ahead, Leo envisions Idioidas becoming far more than a brand. Within the next decade, his goal is to establish an institution dedicated to promoting these values and supporting emerging talents who share the same vision. Written by @LeFo_0 and pictures by @valentinrizzo Thanks to @idioidas for the interview Would you wear them ? taken in Paris, France by @ponhcra
11
3 months ago
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Through her meticulously sculpted jewelry, @ttang.nyc tells stories in which memories, materials, and the passage of time take shape. The brand rethinks contemporary accessories, aiming to offer pieces designed to become true heirlooms. When it comes to the crafted objects, the approach is deeply authentic: prioritizing a handcrafted aesthetic, all designs are carved or fabricated entirely by hand in their Brooklyn studio. Each piece of jewelry is conceived as a trace of memory, transforming personal recollections, everyday objects, and traditional craftsmanship into timeless creations. One design was inspired by the memory of a family sofa upholstered in a loosely woven linen fabric whose folds would naturally form whenever someone sat on it. Recreating this effect in metal required sculpting the piece in wax before an exceptionally complex casting process, due to the intricate negative spaces between each strand. Another ring recalls the lane dividers found in swimming pools, a tribute to the designer’s years as a swimmer, while the Vera Ring draws its pattern from a 1970s and 1980s tablecloth that always covered the family dining table. And lastly, a jewel takes its inspiration from the samara, the winged seed that spins through the air like a helicopter, and was designed to be gently rotated between the fingers as a tactile, stress relieving object. At the same time, Tang also explores the traces of time through his Vestigia Temporis collection, a tribute to antiques and objects imbued with history. Among its pieces is a design inspired by the largest coin ever circulated in 1797, once worn by couples as a symbol of their union. Another series draws from the structure of Hong Kong’s traditional bamboo scaffolding, celebrating an ancestral craft that is now gradually disappearing. Through these familiar forms, the jewels become true “Proust madeleines”, awakening childhood memories and long forgotten sensations. Thanks to @ttang.nyc for the invitation to the showroom and the interview. Written by @lefo_0 and @tony.mp3 Follow @ponhcra for more artisanal content. #avantgarde #avantgardefashion taken in Paris, France by @ponhcra
14
3 months ago
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Since its creation in 2012, @atentativeatelier has developed a neo-romantic vision of clothing. Each piece is conceived as a way to explore fine craftsmanship and innovative shapes. The project focuses on poetic elegance through deconstruction, traditional know-how, and a unisex identity. ​Today, we focus on a singular piece they have crafted: the Marcus blazer. ​This garment is made from dormant Japanese cotton, also known as deadstock to purists. It is dip-dyed and hand-washed, ensuring a unique texture while enhancing the expressive softness of the fabric. Its surface offers a natural color gradient, creating imperfections that make each jacket absolutely unique. ​Its distinctiveness lies in its peaked lapel collar, which can be worn popped up or folded down depending on the desired look. The buttoned chest pocket and welt pockets at the hips structure the garment while maintaining its fluidity. In this way, the silhouette reveals two facets, balancing classic rigor with a relaxed feel. ​The interior of the jacket is embellished with contrasting red heart embroidery, adding an intimate and personal touch to this timeless design. ​While the garment may initially seem rooted in utilitarian workwear, it is actually rich in meaning. It pays direct homage to painters’ jackets, reinvented by artisans across China, notably last generation of Shanghai Artisans ​"Through handcrafted imperfection seen as a new beauty, we seek to redefine traditional methods. Our project is a temporary adventure born of uncertainty, a journey of self-discovery where the mind prevails over the body." ​Historically, the studio has forged deep ties between the heritage of Hong Kong and the traditions of Italy and London, and this creation is intended to be a reflection of these sartorial connections and exchanges. ​Would you wear them? ​Written by @tony.mp3 ​Information/photo found on the official A Tentative Atelier website. ​Follow @ponhcra for more artisanal content. ​#avantgarde #avantgardefashion by @ponhcra
7
4 months ago
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After working with Rick Owens and Carpe Diem, Simone Cecchetto founded @augusta1923 , named after his grandmother. Simplicity and fundamentals define his approach, with each piece reflecting a commitment to exceptional craftsmanship reinterpreted through an anatomical vision of fashion. Devoting his life to his craft, the Rome-based leather artisan and maker begins his days at 6 a.m. and works until night. to ensure the quality of every product bearing his name. Every pair passes through at least one stage of production in his workshop. Excellence is found in every detail: heels built from successive layers of leather, carefully constructed inner and outer soles, hand-finished stitching, and even a semi-mechanical Goodyear welt construction. One aspect, however, is particularly characteristic of his work: when purchasing leather, he buys it with the hair still attached. If the hide is not perfect, the final product cannot be either. The material itself forms the foundation of everything that follows. Once the hides have been selected and the lasts developed, the treatment process begins. Cecchetto tans the leather himself and experiments with different oils to create new finishes. The manufacturing techniques themselves become sources of inspiration and innovation. Augusta continues to evolve, with a field of research that seems limitless. Echoing his studies in art history, the work Simone presents reveals a fascination with leather and animal skin as expressive mediums. It is a way of exploring both the human body and the idea of performance. Curved shoulders, initially unsettling soles, deconstructed anatomy
 Simone seeks to remind us of our relationship to the earth and to balance itself. The wearer is encouraged to reconsider their connection to the world through an almost animalistic perspective, as evidenced by certain sole constructions. Rather than focusing on image or conventional notions of beauty, he invites us to question established standards and reflect on our posture, our mood, and the way we move through space. Written by @LeFo_0 and pictures by @valentinrizzo Thanks to a1923 for the interview #artisanal #a1923 #avantgardefashion taken in Paris, France by @ponhcra
10
4 months ago
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Since its creation, @isamukatayamabacklash has been developing a visceral and experimental vision of clothing. Each piece is conceived as an exploration of the limits of craftsmanship and material. The project focuses on Japanese identity through a profound respect for leather, the olfactory memory of the creator’s childhood, and a constant quest for innovation. The leather used is left in its purest and most natural state. Far from being concealed, the scratches and marks from the animal’s life are integrated into the design, guaranteeing the absolute uniqueness of the piece while enhancing the expressive texture of the skin. Crafted without chemical color fixatives to avoid altering its authentic feel, the surface naturally patinas over time, movement, and wear. Its distinctive characteristic lies in its wavy appearance, an organic effect achieved through a complex garment-dyeing technique (piece-dyed). The jacket is first assembled in a larger size, then dyed and tumbled in large drums. Under the effect of the treatment, the leather shrinks, forcing the zippers and seams to undulate. In this way, the garment reveals a living silhouette, literally sculpted by the process of its creation. While this material approach challenges traditional codes, it is also rich in meaning. It pays homage to meticulous craftsmanship while infusing it with a contemporary and rebellious soul. « Craftsmanship represents about 70% of my work. It relies on the experience of the people we collaborate with. Leather is a truly unique and profound material. » Nicknamed the « leather magician, » Isamu Katayama points out that while « Made in Japan » is a guarantee of reliability and precision, his vision belongs to a broader cultural sphere. Historically inspired by motorcycle and rock culture, his work dialogues with European scenes, from Paris to Milan. These creations aim to reflect constant exchanges between Japanese rigor and a global attitude, appealing to iconic figures in music and sports worldwide. Do you wear them? Written by @tony.mp3 and @baptiste_bgo Cover by @lobscur_paris Follow @ponhcra for more artisanal content. #avantgarde #avantgardefashion #backlash by @ponhcra
23
5 months ago
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Since its creation, @tchur1917 has developed an artisanal vision of clothing. Each piece is designed as a way to explore culture and history. The project focuses on Russian identity through Christianity, myth, and visual memory. Today, we are focusing on two hats he has crafted. The first is made from 1 mm thick vegetable-tanned mountain goat leather. It is dyed and treated using high-quality materials, ensuring its durability while enhancing the expressive texture of the leather. Its surface is naturally patinated through exposure to sunlight and water. Its distinctive feature lies in its left side, which can be raised and fastened with a carbonized wooden button. The wide brim provides effective protection from the sun while partially concealing the face. In this way, your face reveals these two facets. The lining is made of black cotton fabric and is complemented by a genuine leather bow for added comfort. While this first hat carries no particular symbolism, the second is rich in meaning. It pays tribute to Russian peasant headdresses from the late 19th century. “Through the Polichinelle print, I aim to introduce a sense of carnival into the piece. Mankind is homo ludens, we are inherently drawn to play, and our culture is shaped by it.” Punchinello, an emblematic figure of French tradition, serves here as a reminder that Russia belongs to a broader European cultural sphere. Historically, Russian culture was profoundly influenced by French and German traditions, and this creation is intended to reflect those connections and exchanges. Each piece is handmade and assembled using artisanal methods, without industrial production with great attention to detail. Would you wear them ? Written by @lefo_0 Thanks to @tchur1917 for the pictures and information. Follow @ponhcra for more artisanal content. #avantgarde #avantgardefashion #tchur1917 taken in Paris, France by @ponhcra
7
5 months ago
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Sculptural, Organic, Experimental. These are the words that define @yasuyukiishiiasia , a Japanese avant garde brand redefining the boundaries of clothing. Yasuyuki Ishii is a Japanese fashion label founded in Tokyo in 1996, named after its founder and creative director. The brand is renowned for its avant garde creations, favoring leather, natural materials, and a predominantly dark color palette. Before launching his eponymous label, Ishii had already built a strong reputation in fine arts and design. In 1987, after receiving the Yamamoto Kansai Award at Kuwasawa Design School, he had the opportunity to exhibit internationally through a collaboration with Guy Laroche. His pursuit of new forms of creation and expression ultimately led him to establish his own brand in 1996. He once said: “To bring life to immobile objects is to infuse them with movement.” This duality between sculptural impact and delicate craftsmanship can be clearly felt throughout his pieces. Like most Ishii creations, they embody an avant garde, distressed aesthetic inspired, according to Ishii, by the work of Karl Lagerfeld. Among the brand’s signature pieces are its leather combat boots, reflecting the influence of fine arts on Yasuyuki Ishii’s refined craftsmanship. “Design is a whole. Whether it is a chair or a jacket, what matters is the structure and the emotion it conveys.” Would you dare to wear it? Written by @baptiste_bgo Follow ponhcra for more artisanal content. #avantgarde #avantgardefashion #YasuyukiIshii taken in Paris, France by @ponhcra
6
5 months ago
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@c_r_o_m_a_g_n_o_n draws its essence from a multifaceted influence. The brand rethinks traditional crafts and classic shapes from various perspectives, aiming to offer new discoveries and unprecedented sensory experiences. Like a true alchemist of matter, the creator rigorously selects the characteristics of each material based on the final piece, applying unique transformation processes. For clothing, Crömagnon expresses itself exclusively through in-house developed fabrics or by breathing new life into superb vintage textiles. When it comes to crafted objects, the approach is equally authentic: each piece is entirely handmade, the result of a close collaboration with specialized artisans. By inheriting traditional manufacturing structures and methods, the brand ensures the transmission of raw, unadulterated craftsmanship. The deep inspiration behind Crömagnon’s collections lies in the quest for perfect harmony. While the clothing patterns adopt a deliberately simple and minimalist approach, the objective remains unwavering: to offer garments of absolute comfort. This attention to detail extends even to the invisible, with a unique treatment of the seams designed exclusively for the body’s well-being. This project steps away from fleeting fashion trends to focus on what truly matters. All these reflections converge towards a single vision: to create objects with expressions of pure beauty, garments of incredible comfort, capable of subtly and naturally brightening every moment of your daily life. Would you dare to wear them? Follow @ponhcra for more avant garde post. #avantgarde #avantgardefashion #archivefashion by @ponhcra
2
5 months ago
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This jacket by @persoblanco is not made of leather, but from a textile derived from the root network of fungi. Developed from mycelium by @mycoworks and @madewithreishi , Reishi grows slowly, nourished by organic waste, until it forms a dense and supple sheet. Its texture, reminiscent of full grain leather, is achieved through precise control of the mycelium’s growth. Once harvested, the material is stabilized, treated, and dyed in a tannery, allowing for deep, nuanced, almost living finishes. The construction of this jacket draws inspiration from the body of a troglodyte man whose morphology would have adapted to the cave environment. The lining was intentionally omitted to reveal the garment’s underlying structure. The panels were also reversed: what is usually hidden becomes visible. This choice highlights pigmentation variations resembling mold, echoing the world it evokes. My work is deeply connected to the universe of caves, where fungi and mold are ever present. Whether through garments or accessories, Justin seeks to recreate the bodies of a forgotten civilization, frozen within a cave. His process begins with the creation of a mold, followed by a toile prototype. He then reworks the form to achieve a body that feels almost dysmorphic while remaining wearable. The choice of material comes last. “I gravitate toward materials that evoke the passage of time: oxidation, alteration, transformation. Mycelium naturally belongs within this exploration. My goal is to offer a personal vision, an interpretation of what an aven is.” The name “regard cerné” was born from observation, my own. It refers both to a physical description of myself and to a narrative depth. It serves as a gateway into the universe I am building. Text by @lefo_0 and @persoblanco Thanks to @persoblanco for the pictures and for the interview. Follow @ponhcra for more artisanal content. #avantgardefashion #avantgarde #persoblanco Veste en cuir de champignon noire et blanche taken in Paris, France by @ponhcra
19
6 months ago
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