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Samuel Weir

@sam__weir

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Permanent Midnight Low 8C+ (V16) . Amazing power resistance test piece from @clem_lechap . Anti style maxing on the home turf ! A real benchmark for the grade I think compared to all the “8C+” I have tried or done over the years. Power climbing on terrible feet leads straight into the Fionnay classic permanent midnight! This thing put up a fight! I think I sent the 8C+ intro bloc 13 times slowly building resistance in the 8A+ each try over the last 4 weeks! 😂. But! It was for the greater good!!! because the solitary low project which once seemed impossible in my brain all the sudden seems doable! I’m confident I can fall on the last move in that one coming from the bottom 😯😅. So something futuristic to dive into next year with the crew! Really happy to have wrapped this up just in time for round 2 in Ticino with the crew 📈😀🔥🔥 all fire from @sebastienmaflin

#bouldering

Mom!

Bubby! Lisy! Big T was at home 🏠 taken in Fionnay, Valais, Switzerland by @sam__weir

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4 days ago

Brain Rot 8C (V15) - nice crimper boulder from last summer up in Magic Wood! Took a while to figure out the bike move (3 days) sportiva speedster left , Scarpa drago right from Seb did the trick! The first and only time I did it I managed to execute. Quite rare 🤣Took me longer than all the crimper 8Cs from last year by a few sessions but again it’s one move and we were there in July so hard to grade 😃. Thanks @sebastienmaflin for the fire viddy!! As summer comes to an end I’m looking forward to the winter season. Fingers are feeling good and the colder temps are brining back that sensation of lightness and liveliness that I only get in the winter weather. In my final prep getting ready for round 2 in Ticino and hoping to finish up business in fionnay after too many falls in the end of permanent due to my lack of endurance 😅 but it’s a good trainer and not going anywhere so slow and steady for the big rigs! #bouldering taken in Magic wood, Switzerland by @sam__weir

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21 days ago

The World’s Strongest Weekend Warrior.

Watch or listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, YouTube or your favourite podcast place 🎧

In this episode Eliot chats to Sam Weir and American climber now living in Chamonix, France. Sam is a dark horse of the bouldering world, you’ve probably never heard of him but he has climbed multiple 8C+/V16 boulders. Eliot and Sam chat about his process and approach while projecting as well as his approach to training. Unlike many world class boulderers you see these days Sam has a full time job as so fits in all his climbing and training around this. We feel this is something many of you will be interested in as you too also likely work regularly and have to fit your climbing in around this. This is a very interesting and varied conversation. taken in Brione Verzasca by @sam__weir

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2 months ago

Solitary Daze 8C- Fionnay, CH. FA by my boy big daddy @clem_lechap. Although not the highest grade it might be the boulder I’m most proud of. All big holds, super technical, and demands an amount of flexibility that I was miles from having when I first started trying a few years ago... I found a way around that with a toe hook method but it was just too hard from the start… I thought it could work and probably would have but I knew in the back of my head I just needed to get the right skills. Over the last two years I have been stretching and doing weighted mobility a few times a week. It works…. Sitting in a chair all day made me stiff over the years and incorporating this changed the game! And my overall health! In early march I got a first session back with @sebastienmaflin and to my surprise the heel hook felt amazing. It culminated in falling on the last move three times🤯🤯🤯. Came back again with it dry and topable and everything came together. Amazing boulder and so happy to see the stretching is paying off. Later in the day I managed to finish up another nemisis pied de biche 8B/+ (props to @samuelometz on this one cause what he did was hard 8C or 8C+ )🤯 this one was cool because I just barely had the reach and would try a few times each season! This year came back with some slightly stronger digits and to my surprise again , I could do the crux using just back three which gave me the needed reach!! For me it honestly felt harder than big nose and foundations but still not sure how personal grades work or don’t. Or how things should be. In any case ,,,Super happy to see these small improvements and ready to reset after a long winter in Ticino and sharpen the tools for October. Getting older but man climbing is so good. Super grateful to be out and about . Thanks Clém and Sam for these fire ass blocs. #climbing #bouldering . Thanks @sebastienmaflin for these photos 😃📈📈📈 taken in Fionnay, Valais, Switzerland by @sam__weir

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6 months ago

Superman - Crag X, A great limestone boulder opened by Jerry Moffat in the late 80s at 8A+. This one is really cool because the crux move quite hard! Harder than the moves on most classic 8B+ and 8Cs I have done and tried. I more often see just the linking of similar difficulty moves in a row that culminate in a higher overall grade. Cool to see that the level was there 30 some years ago already. Although broken since the FA and done with other méthodes and sick shoes today(forgot my drones 😢 but found a cool toe method), this one really was mind blowing and had me smiling to get to climb on another historic boulder. Keen to dive into some more limestone crimping here and elsewhere soon! Seems to fit my style quite well. What a treat to visit the UK. I always put it off coming from PA knowing all too well the fickle weather. But man! Got lucky and had 2 perfect days! Blown away by the country,vibes, and community. Felt at home 😀I will surely be back soon. Huge thanks to @bwowphoto and @everettchris8 for putting me up and a nice first tour of some of the local spots. #boulering by @sam__weir

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6 months ago

The Lions Share 8C (V15) - Brione,CH. In the middle of a little tune up for Ticino with the team in a few weeks so it’s a good time to look back and get motivated for the next round 😃 Great moves, lots of body tension, and a big slap that guards access to the easy top out. Can’t wait to get back out there once the temps warm up a bit more!! #bouldering @bnnt_lcs vibes & viddy 🙏😀 by @sam__weir

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9 months ago

Tagada- Chironico,CH. 2nd ascent of this stout little power tech bloc from @clem_lechap on a frosty -3 day . Amazing moves on slick rock. Unexpected double dry fires is the name of the game on this one 😂. Felt a notch up from the 8Cs I’ve done so I suspect this one is in that range as well. Curious to see what others say in the future. taken in Chironico, Switzerland by @sam__weir

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10 months ago

From Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C (V15) Chironico, CH. A historical boulder opened by @dave_graham_ in 2005. Nice flowy climbing leads to a tech mantle. Really futuristic for its time when compared to others of this era and has stood its ground as a benchmark! 🙏 . #bouldering #🪲blatepower🪲 Big ups to 9ERZ for that flow and good vibes. 😇 and Daniel for his beta cause I suck at heel hooks😂 taken in Chironico, Switzerland by @sam__weir

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a year ago

Poison the Well - Brione, CH. A straight up masterpiece put up by my friend @giuliano_cameroni quite a few years ago. Quite mythical. A line which pushed me harder than any other by a long shot!! After a wild ride things finally came together. Shape, mindset, vibes, temps all lined up to allow execution. I tried this line for the first time in spring of 2024 and went full project mode in the fall of last year. It was a big stretch goal and the crux is by far the hardest single move I have done on a boulder. The crux revolves around this crazy bump which if I was any shorter would not have been possible. After a saga of about 7 sessions I managed to do the crux one time. By itself. Right before I abandoned it as a project from being so morpho. From there the dream was sparked. I said if I ever do it from the bottom I’ll do it for sure😅 nope. Things on the first round culminated in march managing to stick the crux but fell readjusting… summer rolled in and I switched mindsets. I focused on trying antistyle so I delved into @clem_lechap hard lines in fionnay all summer to no avail. But this mixed with our little crew at Blate got things set up for the fall season . Right away this fall things went well. After a few sessions of dialing it up again I managed to stick the crux 3 times from the bottom falling due to not sticking the crux hold perfectly. The progress was real!! After 12 more falls on the last section it all came together. Insane. Could not believe it. By far the hardest boulder I have done and the best. Can’t recommend this one enough! Things seem to be just getting started and really grateful to be blazing around and having a good time. Time to chill a bit. Work on the van. Train back up and delve into the next mission with the crew! 📈Huge thanks to Amandine for letting me do my thing day in day out 😘🙏 also Lucas, Pierre, Clem, and Nina for the good times, progression, and fun! #bouldering #climbing #🪲BlatePower🪲 taken in Brione Verzasca by @sam__weir

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a year ago

The Lions Share 8C (V15) - Brione, CH. A wonderful addition to the kingdom wall by Aidan a few seasons ago. Basic crimping leads to some wild jug climbing all on that perfect swirly gneiss. The zone is cool because it really is reminiscent of Pennsylvania / NE woods and vibe. Nice foliage. Good temps. A bit humid. Feeling at home 😂. I went up to this one a few weeks ago to check vecchio sit and this with the crew with little expectations after a rough day on other boulders. I got a bit more drawn to lions share for this session. Warmed up well touched the holds a bit and to my surprise I flashed into the 8A stand .wild. It could have been my first 8C flash had I done things a little better...next time! But not sure too many are left for me in this style. 🥹 After that I was toasted and called it a day. Fast forward a few weeks and I came back after a very weird session the day before elsewhere. Lacked concentration, fun, psyche and felt cool to change zones. With a chiller vibe and empty wall I managed to make it count and get this beauty completed. This one was a mind bender because the more specialized I get in my crimp style the less I can even tell on the grades. The 8A big holds moves were the hard ones for me in this boulder actually. Pretty funny how that goes! On another note we have been stacking videos of all the climbs this year and thinking of just putting all in one vid a year for all the climbs that get done. Happy to have completed this one and TURBO sparked the psych and hope to get some of my bigger rigs done and keep on pushing. The older I get the more I love climbing 🔥. Fire still burning bright 🪲 Blate power🪲Thanks Lucas for the genuine support on my projects! viddy and good vibes! #bouldering #climbing taken in Brione Verzasca by @sam__weir

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a year ago

Brain Rot 8C+ (V16) - MagicWood,CH. A perfect 3 move crimp line recently FA’d by @will_bosi . What seemed like a simple crimp strength problem at first glance turned out to be more technical than I expected. The holds are good! But the feet and toe hook are terrible . So bad, I had to message a friend to ask where the toe hook was at because I didn’t believe it existed 🤣The first and last move were ok for me right away but the 2nd (crux) move was a doozy! Such a crazy sensation to find the tension! The evening it went down was weird, I was a couple hours into the session and 2nd day on (which I rarely do) and all hope was lost. On a whim I asked @sebastienmaflin to give me a power spot as I wanted to test a body position idea I had. To my surprise I found the missing link. All the sudden I understood the move for real and it re sparked the belief. Took a good break and a couple minutes later it all clicked and I stuck the crux well and was locked in. Luckily, I managed to focus and keep it together for the end. What a fire little boulder. Totally unexpected send late in the day. Grade wise: it’s a good style for me so I think 8C physically but really hard technically to find the balance/tension point. The crux move is definitely harder than any of the moves on the 8C+ I have done or tried. But it’s only the second so you’re fresh and conditions don’t play a huge role. It is always hard to grade a one mover so I’m curious to see what others think of its global difficulty. Great couple days with the team. Back to the board for the next month until autumn rolls in 🍂 Ticino 🤩 photos by @sebastienmaflin #bouldering taken in Magic wood, Switzerland by @sam__weir

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a year ago

Child of Hell 8C (V15) 3rd go :) Amazing shoulder stability and tension test piece high off the deck up on the San Gottard Pass 🇨🇭Fire weekend with a 🔥 crew. Story: I quickly checked out COH last year after Hazel grace and got to see the holds up close on the rope and check things out but with gnarly winds and -5C we aborted the mission and went home. Fast foreword to 2025, came back checked the upper moves and topout on the rope and with the support of @arnebaele @marine_thevenet_ @alizee_dufraisse I managed to make my way to the top just as the rain soaked the top out. Was a bit scary but it worked out 😱 What a cool moment of execution where the height and attachment to success just faded away. Only made possible by a good support team 🔥 I did not seem to tap into that full invisible mode 🫥 yet but I’m on my way ! Grade wise: honestly no idea. It felt really stable and ok for me. Much like revisiting la force this spring… Consensus seems 8C for the moment and it’s perfectly my style. If it holds, it would be my first 8C in a session and marks a new little milestone for me 🙃 . Back to the grindstone ✊🏻 #bouldering taken in Passo San Gottardo by @sam__weir

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a year ago