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Too Far Gone Assis v11

This might be my favourite climb in Quebec. The rock is perfect, the intro moves are extremely delicate, and the boulder is one of the prettiest I’ve ever seen. I love how over a year this climb has gone from feeling impossible to being done.

On my first session I exceeded my expectations be getting to the mantle only to punt. I then had another session where I regressed and got frustrated. On my third session I did the boulder on my first try, feeling effortless. I looked at my video to see that I had SLIGHTLY dabbed. I know this dab is insignificant, but I wanted to do this boulder without any doubts or questions, so I spent more tries than I wanted to redo it. 

Shoutout to @gabdesmanches for helping me take proper rests and to chill out when trying to get the repeat. And shoutout @casista_7 for the micro beta on the crux pinch, it really helped me unlock the climb. by @slab.lover
14
a day ago
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Thumbderstorm v10 👍

Finally tried this underrated one with @gabdesmanches , and it didn’t disappoint. I really enjoyed the techy and mobility based right heel, that when placed right allows a slow reach over right to a pretty bad slopey crimp. I was also surprised to find the top my crux, as I thought it would be over after getting both hands in crack. Yet another Morin heights banger 😮‍💨 by @slab.lover
13
2 days ago
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Rise v9 ⬆️

Another sick climb from my weekend at the Nooks. Initially I didn’t plan to try this climb, but after seeing it again I couldn’t help myself. This thing is just too tall and the style is just too cool not to pull on. The Nooks, and especially Bolgers lake have an absurd amount of exceptional quality highballs, so anyone with a love for big boulders should definitely make a stop.

After spending a few tries figuring out the bottom sequence, I’m psyched to have executed the “stand” section first try, even while being numb, pumped, and uncertain of beta. 

Thanks to the squad once again and especially @mgauthclimbs for the beta and the spot! It was sick to see him also do the full line right after me! by @slab.lover
3
4 days ago
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Bong Rip v8 😶‍🌫️

I remember watching the boys trying and sending this thing last year, I knew I had to try the next time I was at the Nooks. I made it a bit of a goal of mine to flash the climb, but I messed up my hand placement on my flash go, second try is good enough tho 😁

This is definitely one of the coolest moves I’ve done on rock, a pure gym style jug to jug dyno. 

Shoutout to the big crew for brining pads and psyche. Plus shoutout @cam.dowell  for the FA by @slab.lover
11
5 days ago
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Kpop Assis v11 🪩 

Psyched to do the low to the climb that once had my number. I only tried the bottom section a couple times, and had 0 expectation to keep going after sticking the big move on the stand. It feels like fall is only just starting, but I also feel like it’ll be over in no time 🤙

Regarding the grade, I think the stand is a high end v10, and although the intro section is not very difficult, I think adding moves on overhang add a bit of fatigue and a bit less chalk for the crux. I think these factors justify the higher grade of low end v11. Regardless, this climb is beautiful and worth doing. 

Shoutout @faussefleur for the celebration pastry by @slab.lover
10
13 days ago
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Kpop v10🪨

I say I’m psyched in all my captions, but I’m psyched to the moon and back that I was able to do this one yesterday. I’ve admired this climb for a long time, as I think it’s very aesthetic and has some really fun explosive movement on some perfect slopers on some perfect rock. 

In terms of grade, this one is weird because I went from feeling not close at all to sending within 30 minutes. Until then, this boulder felt like one of the hardest 10s I’ve ever tried, but on the send go it felt effortless, so I guess solid v10 is accurate.

Camera angle is kinda chuffed, cutting off the right side of the boulder but whatever 🤫 by @slab.lover
16
a month ago
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L’arche de Noah v10 🐋

Psyched to get a sloppy send of this one quick after punting several times during my first session. I kept falling on the final left hand move going into the crack, as I kept slipping off the weird smear left foot. I really appreciate the hold variety on this one, especially the starting slopey pinches and the first left hand sloped crimp that I full crimped on 🫪. The rock quality on this one is average Bouleaux quality, meaning it’s some my favourite that I’ve ever touched.

Thanks @askar.tlk for the essential kneepad, and thanks to @theo_stec_ for not asking for your pad back ✌️🫦 by @slab.lover
9
a month ago
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Oruga ~v9 FA 🐛

Psyched to have made a possible first ascent in such a classic laurentides zone, being on the same boulder as Damn Daniel and Atomic Teaser. I had a great time scrubbing and figuring out this climb with @bar.emile . Psyche is high now that the season is really starting 🙂‍↕️ by @slab.lover
6
a month ago
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Left at Last (AKA Tim’s Arete) V10 💠

After doing lots of moderate climbing the past few days, I decided that 5 days on was a good opportunity to try some harder stuff. I was quickly able to piece together a sequence that worked for me, then deciding to stop due to thin skin and overall fatigue. Although being pretty tired, I saw @swanseamo cruise the climb, which inspired me to give it one last attempt. I’m thankful to have done a climb that I think embodies the Squamish style of active heel/toe hooks, compression and precise hand placements.

Shoutout @darren.fang04 @cedric.sabourinn and squad for the spot and psyche 🙏✌️ by @slab.lover
10
2 months ago
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Defender of the Faith v9+📿

After not feeling close on the second last move a couple years ago, I’m psyched to have done it pretty quick this time. Doing the move from the ground took a bit more time, and thankfully I managed to kept it together for the last dunk. Been loving my time in Squamish, this place is the best by @slab.lover
8
2 months ago
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Resurrection v9 🪽

Wow, this one was a bit of a nemesis for me. I’ve tried it each time I’ve come to Squamish, always falling in the middle section, with something always feeling off. At some points, I almost dreaded the idea of trying, out of fear that I’d just get shut down again.

But today, after going back and forth in my mind about whether or not I should pull on, I decided “hey there’s already pads so I guess I’ll try”. And on my first attempt this trip, this happened. 

From a grade perspective, this is not my most difficult achievement, but this was one of the most rewarding moments in my climbing. I can’t wait for more experiences like this. by @slab.lover
10
2 months ago
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Le Territoire v9 

Had a really fun and sweaty day today with 2 legends. Robin showed us this area with lots of cool hard stuff and some taller easier stuff. This climb was really enjoyable, as you traverse across comfy crimps into a tight heel. I didn’t climb this one in my usual style, opting for an aggressive cut, not sure why but it just felt right. I think v9 is a fair grade, though it felt extra difficult with the conditions that we had 🥵 by @slab.lover
2
2 months ago
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