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Tou @tou_london at @theglobese1

After the untimely closure of my favourite burger haunt slightly over a year ago, I’ve been on the search for a worthy successor. A diminutive pork slider would seem an unlikely candidate, but there’s something magical about how Tou’s iberico slider comes together. A soft pliable milk bun, onions, rich juicy patty, some fiery pickled jalapenos, ‘burger cheese’ and fruity mayo make for one hell of a snack. Even though there is an outrageous amount of depth in this small package, I do wish there was a double patty option, perhaps they saw it as an addition to their famous sando rather than a hero item of it’s own. It’s a great way to use offcuts and trimmings, delivering a

There aren’t that many pork patties out there, so I think I can safely crown this king of the pork patties, it beats out a lot of beef burgers too, and if it were a bit bigger it would seriously challenge for the title of best London burger. I used to be one of those stubborn purists that believed a ‘burger; must be a beef patty, now I’m not so sure.

The skin on chilli fries keep the heat going and I was starting to sniffle by the end of it, not a meal set for those who can’t handle a bit of spice. I suppose their glasses of pet nat would help you wash them down. Shio koji sesame pickled veg gave me korean banchan flashbacks and a great foil for the richness of their pork.

1. Iberico Slider, Fries
2. Korokke, pickles

#food #londonfood #restaurant #burger taken in Borough Market by @smokingfork

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2 years ago

Evernight @evernight_ldn

A year later after their opening, Evernight continues to be a consistent delight. A classy yet comfortably casual affair, with creative small plates. Here are some dishes from my "anniversary visit".

1. Hatsumoto & Shiso I'm glad they continue to do these offaly skewers, there aren't many places that even dare try.

2. Cornish Mackerel, Tomatoes & Sweetcorn Tenkasu My top pick of the evening. Mackarel has become one of, if not my favourite fish. Here it is with a deep glazed crust served atop grated tomato that puts the best pan con tomate to shame. Fried sweetcorn kernel tempura provide bursts of pure joy that really make the dish. Fusion food is often a dirty word, this is a shining example of where it creates something magical. The attention to layers, both flavours and textures in their plates are a joy to behold.

3. Plymouth Seabass, Pea Tendrils & Green Almonds An incredibly vibrant dish. Often sashimi is dressed up to the point of being lost, here all the components are appropriately supportive with the slight exception of the dashi jelly, which was a little overtuned with sweetness, if the dish is taken in isolation. Combined with the much more savoury mackerel dish, they work well together! I'm not sure why, but this felt like a farewell to the summer.

4. Lobster, Cuttlefish & Ikura Rice Donabe Served with a small flask of lobster broth, this is an incredibly flavourful (and luxurious) rice bowl! Don’t forget to scrape the bottom for that crusted crispy layer of rice.

#food #londonfood #restaurant taken in Embassy Gardens by @smokingfork

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3 years ago

@meatopiauk an annual celebration of smoke fire and (mostly) meat! This year was their 10th anniversary, and whilst I wasn’t there for all 10, it has become one of those yearly things I look forward to at the end of summer and just before the colder months settle in.

There’s always quite the variety on offer, though this year rice seemed to be the trending side, making a change from the usual flatbread accompaniment. From crisped soccarat style trays to pork stock and fat cooked rice with curry.

I was always of the opinion that salt beef sandwiches were the king of all sandwiches. I’ve been shown the light. (2) is probably the best sandwich I’ll have this year and next (unless they bring it back for 2024!)

Being surrounded by all that wood smoke just has to make everything taste better as you’re queuing up for your next bite while finishing the one in your hands.

I remember going to my first meatopia and being overjoyed at such an accessible bbq festival in the middle of my own city. Sure, it may not be a traditional brisket fayre, but why eat 20 briskets when you can enjoy such a huge variety of techniques and flavours!

#londonfood #livefirecooking by @smokingfork

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3 years ago

@theseathesea_

I am both really pleased but bitterly disappointed by their new expanded offering. It’s like there are 2 restaurants here, with two totally different experiences.

I’ve always associated TSTS with excellent seafood. There was not a lot of space in their former site up the road, but they made so much out of so little. There weren’t that many hot dishes on the menu there but every one of them was always cooked to perfection, showcasing the amazing produce they have. They still have amazing produce but both times I’ve visited, the hot dishes have not maintained that standard. It’s definitely not bad but it falls back into the nameless pack where fish is overcooked, which is so so disappointing from a place I would use to always trust to nail it. The only saving grace is that they’re starting with something so good, it merely falls back down to average afterwards.

What’s really interesting is that all the minimally cooked and smaller snacks are better than ever. It isn’t just undressed slabs of sashimi, the accompaniments are creative and elevate the already incredible seafood. I particular like that they have a small shot of consomme to open the meal with.

The “Potato Ice cream and Smoked Eel” dessert was life changing. It didn’t taste particularly savoury or fishy, I’d describe it as a smokey vanilla-like ice cream. The drizzle of pine syrup probably keeps it all held together as a sweet. It was good enough to melt my extreme frustrations away and I’d happily revisit just for starters and dessert.

1. Gurnard, smoked herring roe
2. Lobster, tomatoes
3. Prawns, apricot, white currant
4. Smoked chalkstream torut, jersey royals
5. Langoustine & Crab Consomme; Aged Seabream, white asparagus; Fried seaweed dumpling & lobster
6. Fried seaweed dumpling & lobster
7. Ilse of sky scallop, flowering currant
8. Grilled dory, maitake
9. Potato ice cream, smoked eel

#food #restaurant #londonfood taken in Pavilion Road by @smokingfork

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19 hours ago

@mochi_house_london

From the team behind Hannah (now Donabe) and Kokin, they’ve been incubating in a room opposite in county hall and dedicated it to handcrafted Japanese mochi, a kind of expansion of their mochi desserts that they serve at Donabe.

I previously gushed about how incredible their strawberry mochi was, the addition of sakura mochi and warabi mochi make for a really strong offering. The salt pickled leaf wrapping the rice of the sakura mochi perfectly balance out the red bean filling. I didn’t expect to like this as much as I did, it’s really my kinda style.

Warabi mochi is still my favourite kind, and the sweetness level here is perfect for me. Kamakura was too sweet for my liking, that I had to take the matcha version for the extra bitterness. Here it’s much more neutral that I can enjoy it with a light drizzle kuromitsu. The barely-set, delicate wobble and earthy notes, is everything.

If you order a matcha tea (just water, no milk), it comes at proper strength, a really intense, concentration that is hard to find around London. It’s the perfect chaser for a plate of dessert. They do also offer some less traditional desserts like matcha parfait and tiramisu, not for me, but these are probably great crowd pleasers.

Their popup ends at the end of September, but I think there’s good news and they’ll be in Soho come October. I hope they manage to keep the tranquil, spacious vibe, but that might be tough in the centre of London.

#food #london #cafe #wagashi by @smokingfork

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3 days ago

@manteca_london

I normally think of manteca as a kind of pasta place, with some very nice starters and that’s what I tend to go for there. They however, do have some fire-cooked cuts of meat and fish and more often than not there will be various cuts of heritage beef, from the classics to the more exotic.

They’re ‘designed for sharing’ ranging from 350-600g. I call that a ‘proper steak for one’. This time’s was 350g denver cut, but on all occasions, they have always been cooked to this consistent level of rosy and tender. The melon starter was to pass the time, as it’s done the proper way, slowly and carefully to give the chewy tissues the proper time to be to broken down a little. A quick flash in the pan could leave you with a similar rosiness but a much more troublesome mouthful.

There’s a small handful of other places for good but snacking sized steaks. There are some great places to really go for the 1kg+ steaks when you’re looking to treat yourself. Manteca has lowkey become my go-to for the happy middle ground without me even realising.

Denver steak
Sun sweet melon, prosciutto taken in manteca restaurant by @smokingfork

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10 days ago

Another year another @meatopiauk , the event that rounds the summer for me before heading into the colder seasons. There’s been a crop of similar fire and bbq events that also happen throughout the year. For me, none come close to Meatopia. The food, the vibes, the venue and facilities are just better. Here are a selection of my favourites this year across Friday and Sunday, in no particular order. A sign of the times can be felt, with a lot of portion sizes shrinking.

1. Karel Calek, @blacklockchops - 55-day aged roasted sirloin

On Sunday, what’s better than a classic roast beef and yorkshire and some of their famous gravy.

2. Ana Ortiz, @anaortiz_chef - Chicken Confit in Sobrasada, Aji Pickled Salad

Ana and family are a staple at Meatopia. I always enjoy her work and this year is no exception. This was the largest portion and I went back for seconds. The sides and sauce look vibrant but do not overstep, they stay as a refreshing accompaniment.

3,4. Budgie Montoya, Kowloon Cafe - Chicken wing filled with lap cheong sausage, prawn and pork

Stuffed chicken wings are my favourite kind of sausage, and my second favourite way to enjoy wings.

5. Geravich Mesaengnilverakul, @choenrestaurant - Massaman curry, grilled lamb rump, wood-smoked coconut rice.

Having been attacked by other stands’ curries, I requested only a small bit here. I probably could have handled a bit more, that little I had was gentle and creamy. The lamb itself was perfect and the smoked grapes added a fun twist to things. I really seriously thought about going back for another portion.

6. Mai van do, @belly_bistro - Wagyu beef in a bistek sauce with toyomasi onions

This ended up being a really nice piece of beef with something very similar to a very classic red wine + shallot sauce but with added acidity and funky saltiness, which really goes along way.

#food #livefirecooking #meatopiauk taken in Meatopia UK by @smokingfork

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20 days ago

@chophouseandtavern

Liverpool Street Chop House & Tavern

1,2 Chop Chop Burger

National burger day brings about all sorts of one-offs and specials. Rather than that, this is one of the regular members of the menu, the ‘Chop Chop’ burger. It’s not one of those ultra thin smash burgers, but its also not the almost-meatball pub style patty, a nice middle ground double patty configuration that maximises caramelisation without sacrificing substance. The burger reminds me of McDonalds (in a good way), a classic, no fuss burger with pickles, lettuce and tomato. The differences would be the strong aged beef aroma and loosely formed patties. I’d say it’s on the small side but satisfying enough. This is a good everyday burger, one you could eat every week and not get tired of it. A special mention goes out for the mushroom ketchup that comes with the fries.

3. Ox Tongue, Pickled Walnuts, Bitter Leaves & Poached Pear

Fruit in a salad is a sure way to get me on board. The pickled walnuts seemed more like candied walnuts to me, both of which pair with the bitter leaves. The tongue pieces were super tender and meaty, like you might expect from a piece of braised beef shoulder rather than a classic tongue you’d get in a sandwich. No complaints, great starter

4. Sticky Toffee Pudding & Vanilla Ice Cream

There’s more toffee date sauce in here than I needed, but there’s no obligation to spoon up all the sauce. Classic British desserts deserve more love and I’m looking forward to when some enterprising chef works out how to make them viral.

#food #restaurant #londonfood #burger #nationalburgerday taken in Liverpool Street by @smokingfork

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a month ago

@_planque_

For repeat visits, consistency is paramount, Planque is consistently excellent. It’s just one of those places I know I’ll be taken good care of. It’s also one of the few places I regularly enjoy a glass or two with my meal, they’ve never missed with their selections.

The lobster rice was back on the menu, so I had to have it. It looks like barely anything, yet it’s more satisfying than most other lobster dishes out there. It’s one of the very rare good executions of foam, both to disperse the lobster stock and as a kind of visual reveal, pulling back the curtain effect as you enjoy the dish.

I don’t think I’ve had this version of their chilled soup before. It’s a savoury chilled melon soup, lightened with some cucumber juice and a hint of scallop. Fruity savoury is a winning combo for me. The blob of crème fraiche I enjoyed as a nugget, mixing it through I think would have been a shame, thickening the otherwise light texture. It’s a little sweet, a little savoury, a little creamy, a little bright and very very refreshing and satisfying. A liquid masterpiece.

Every time I go, it’s usually the choux bun or millefeuille I finish my meal with. I was determined to try something different this time, a peach sorbet and honey mousse doesn’t really sound that exiting, but I’m so glad I tried it. The mousse drapes over chunks of peach, like a soft blanket. It’s laced with herby basil notes really balanced and fragrant. Crunchy white chocolate nuggets are mixed throughout. And then under it all is the sorbet. More towards the stretchy gelato end of the spectrum as opposed to a very icy kind of sorbet. Mix it all together with a piece of peach, ahh bliss.

1. Chilled Melon Soup & Scallop
2,3. Peach sorbet, honey mousse
4. Dexter Beef Rump, Sungold Tomato, Aubergine & Anchovy
5. Lobster Rice
6. Razor Clam & Sea Lettuce Tartelettes

#food #londonfood #restaurant taken in Planque by @smokingfork

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a month ago

Levan @levanlondon

A long time ago, what feels like a lifetime now in the London culinary scene, on a whim I found myself having one of the most fun meals of all time in a place called Salon in Brixton. They closed, their other location was pretty far away and I just never got around to going. Fast forwarding to the present, the Levan team are opening Cassette in Covent garden, next month in September - time to get that trip to Levan in.

Stepping into the restaurant is like entering a completely different world from the lively streets of Peckham. The vibes are seemingly casual but curated, a lot of dark warm woods, traces of the music scene and a strong scent of room perfume or incense. It could appear a little intimidating, but the team make you feel extremely welcome, like you were invited over to their home.

The food is fun, the kind that brings sparkle and joy, just like how I remembered Salon to be. I opted for the pork neck and the baked rice - both from the larger section, they make a really nice set. With how the rice was listed, I was expecting a very tomatoey rice dish, but no it was the dry kind, with dollops of sauce on top (and a whole tomato), think socarrat. The rice was the perfect vessel for absorbing up all the various liquids on the pork dish, I found myself desperately trying to scrape every last grain off the pan. The sum of these two are so much more than their parts. Part of it, I think plays to my preference for a bit of diy, I can mix as much or as little of the various components as I want.

Pork neck is one of those unctuous cuts when done well, the fat and connective tissue lending a hearty richness. The aubergine, yoghurt and chilli blend together so well with the pork, definitely draws inspiration from a little further afield. What impresses me most, is how the team here bring excitement to the dishes while still keeping it classy.

Pork neck, aubergine, yoghurt, chill butter
Baked rice, San Marzano tomato, pistachio, saffron
Beef tartare rosti (my dessert)

#food #restaurant #londonfood taken in Levan by @smokingfork

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a month ago

@restaurant.nora

Nora is one of the string of recent-ish openings in Canary wharf, though I’m a little late to the party as they’ve just announced a rebranding back to it’s roots / parent group as Cafe Beam. There’s no shortage of Turkish restaurants in London, this one brings a very different kind of vibe, perhaps one well suited to the locals.

The grilled bread is excellent, there’s a bit of a thickness and structure, very easy to tear/cut and a touch of char and crisp on top. I’ve had some variation of this in other places, the execution here really stands out. I had several of these to accompany the other dishes, there was another kind on the menu but I wasn’t even the least bit curious, this one was all I wanted. I don’t seem to see it on their new sample menu, I hope it makes it.

Pickled mango and aubergine is not a combo I’ve had with hummus before, I like it, it adds a fruity chutney-like feel to the chickpeas.
This hummus is best described as chickpea cream, so it’s nice to see them doubling down on the juicier charms of this style, with the mango and aubergine.

The ‘squid salad’ was a delightfully fresh mix of herbs and smoky grilled squid. Slices of dehydrated watermelon brought this all together. The watermelon flavour concentrates into a kind of chewy fruity “ham” slice. It’s something I hope I see at Beam in future as well!

The adana captures all the essence of my favourite kebabs, from the garlic sauce to the seasoned rice/bulgur underneath and pepper/chill sauce. It’s very much a standard and familiar mince kebab, done extremely well. Moist, smokey, dense and an explosion of savouriness when all mixed together.

The execution of all the dishes were faultless, I’ve had the same or very similar version in many other places, yet the team at Nora seem to create plates with a kind of precision and balance hidden behind a relaxed ease. Excellent food with a warm and comforting charm. I hope this continues at Beam.

Hummus, pickled mango, aubergine
Grilled bazlama bread
Grilled squid, yuzu, dehydrated watermelon
Adana, confit garlic yoghurt, ajvar, pickled cabbage

#food #restaurant #londonfood taken in Wood Wharf by @smokingfork

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2 months ago

@onsubakery

After being extremely impressed during my first visit for one of their collabs, I managed to make it back to try their regular/originals. In short, I loved it, and I’d be back again to try more of their menu.

They’re accomplished at both the savouries and the sweets, though surprisingly I found the savouries were the ones that were closer to being too intense. In combination, there’s no issue, in fact this allowed me to enjoy them in a delicious cycle.

The chocolate cake is a work of art, it’s decadent yet balanced. Salty, sweet, crunchy, creamy. It has it all. It looks like it would be super rich, but no it was easy to eat and my favourite of the lot. I think I could eat this, anytime no problem, without the savouries. The eclair was a nice refreshing fruity intermission between the mouthfuls of chocolate.

For the savouries, the textures of both the fried bun and baguette were impeccable. The curry bun was a kind of light and fluffy with a delicate crisp outer shell. There’s a kind of spring in here that I was not expecting. As mentioned earlier, the filling is a little intense to have on it’s own. The mini baguette is another textural delight. Super thin and light crust and an even stretchier crumb. Is this really just wheat flour? Eating baguettes or crusty rolls leave me with scratches all over, I had no issue with that here. Mentaiko is generally pretty assertive and there’s exception here.

The only disappointment was the -87 degree ube latte, it really just seemed like a weak milkshake, that one I didn’t understand the hype, the rest is deserved. I don’t exactly have a large sample size, however it does seem from my two tries, turning up before lunch is a good way to avoid queues. It’s pretty tight inside but the food is 100% worth it.

Chocolate pecan & banana cake
Pistachio & strawberry eclair
Wagyu Beef Curry Bun
Mentaiko Baguette
Ube latte

#food #londonfood #bakery #restaurant taken in Soho by @smokingfork

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2 months ago