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Khoa (like koala)

@smolkhoa

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@kai_picz 164 cm | 62kg | +8 cm
indoor bould. max v10
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2026 09 27 what the frick man
v10 baby, might be soft, but a 10 is a 10 lol
another blue pinchy mf, but this time in the darkroom + overhang.
a lot of tension micro beta stuff, no cutting loose this time unless necessary.

v8 is soft, if you can manage the bicycle, but if you do it the paddly dyno way, yeah its prob v9 lol.

huge thx to @gevityfit and @juliendescheneauxphysio for helping out with managing my injuries.
tenosynovitis of the major L A2 90% gone, much more comfortable on smaller holds.
much better recovery/movement thanks to a structured program (means I wont wreck myself each session)

slow progression on edge lifts:
1. wrist warmup in flexion + extension + supination + pronation
2. finger extensor movement with resistance bands
3. tendon glides
4. 20mm or unlevel edge finger curls w/ 25lbs, 12 controlled reps
5. 3 to 4 reps of 60 lbs yielding isometrics on 20mm, 10-15s holds followed by 3mins of rest
i do these before EVERY session, might be a lot of volume yes, but I used to do A LOT more.
ever since i added these 5 things, fingers are much more consistent.

beware, dont slack on sleep (I do, rip) + hydration + volume/intensity management. by @smolkhoa

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18 days ago

20260303: oh hell yeah, injured pinky, don't matter. 3rd V10 in the bag.
🔵V10: Fat pinches, 3 finger crimps, good feet, a fuck load of tension and power. Absolutely my style ofc lol. Amazing very low-key v10. Feeling absolutely ecstatic. I officially topped it twice! My phone bugged the first time, so had to redo it ;).

@the_resilient_climber t'avais raison, c'est vraiment mon style hihi. Merci @mervannlb pour m'avoir encouragé de le project!

@lecrux.escalade 's staff, also very supportive. Merci Nick pour le dap up.
#boulderingmtl #lecruxlaval #v10climb #v10boulder
PS, It looks easy, only because I really learnt the beta, executed well even if I cut loose'd, and beta was optimized for my morpho :) taken in Le Crux - Centre d'escalade by @smolkhoa

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7 months ago

20251207 - holy cow. 2nd one!!
🟡V10: absolutely my style, had to be sent. disgusting tight transition for the first movement. generous pinches for me, super boxy position on blocked crimps, reachy final jug.

incredible! the board climbing + finger training + optimal volume management are paying off :)
merci @ba._.khang and nick for supporting the send.

#boulderingmtl #boulderinggym #lecruxlaval #escaladebloc #v10climb by @smolkhoa

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10 months ago

2026 10 09 : late night mlx sess
v8, kinda compy style?, was somehow easier to campus lol. holds are nicer than on video trust.

went a bit ham today, first 30 mins was just low-mod intensity, then 30 mins of this 8 and half of a 10, then 30 mins campus sess in dark room and mini workout.

week 1 of power phase. Feeling good, excited to try hard stuff, but gotta remain careful and respect my total weekly volume + sleep. Doing a lot of tempo work + isometrics off the wall in hopes of developing more motor recruitment. (Slow bicep curls and db chest flies absolutely buuurnnn)

For the future weeks, and for 2027, I really wanna push my flexibility! My hamstring were always stiff as buns, my hips are averagely flexible but they are strong. Wanna further develop this to increase mobility and reach! taken in Bloc Shop by @smolkhoa

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7 days ago

2026 10 07, post comp - new phase
here's the v7 I campus'd in front of @onepinchman241 . sorry sorry, was just trying to test my shoulders and wrists.

bloctoberfest 2026 was cool. Top 60 Overall, top 10 in my category (men's recreational)

got up to 30/42, didn't touch 32/42 cuz it was a kilter climb at like 50 degrees. wanted to protect my finger(s). I dropped # 33 and 34, was missing 1 move. # 35 was too hesitant to crimp.

Moving on to the Power phase after taking 2 days off. Hopping on the Kilter and Spray wall. Hopefully I can tolerate the volume/intensity increase. by @smolkhoa

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9 days ago

Bloctoberfest 2026
🥇@babette._.roy on W3 ⚡.

📍@lecrux.escalade
⚒️@monoly___ @doooooviiiiid @guibrabant
(Idk who exactly set this tbh)

sorry for the camera moving, was trynna see if Hugo Dorval could top M3. by @smolkhoa

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9 days ago

2026 09 29 not bad not bad
little v8, literally just copied @newsha_001 's beta lol. Nothing crazy.

tenosynovitis flared up a bit so really chill session, focused on my workout instead.

A bit late but taper + mini reload pre lecrux comp.
ok bye by @smolkhoa

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16 days ago

story of how I lost my @osmo_global DJI Osmo Action 5 Pro on my first hike in Banff...

Headed to sunshine village, 10AM Aug 30th, after renting our bear spray. Turns out it was cold and snowy so I bought myself a fleece and off we went to Standish chairlift to start our hike at the Standish viewpoint.

Wanted to take B rolls of the chairlift... And ig my fingers (covered by gloves) fumbled with the quick release head on my tripod and off it went.

My little action Cam continued recording for 3 hrs, and it wasn't found until sept 10th!

Huge thanks to @sunshinevillage for finding it (they sweep the chairlifts every day before fully closing down). You guys were dope! by @smolkhoa

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a month ago

2026 09 15, mlx :)
camera comes back tmrw yay.
finally regaining confidence! v8 within reach.
fingers feel better, huge thx to @juliendescheneauxphysio and @gevityfit !

simple 8, thankfully not too crimpy.
trying to dial in !

should I do bloctober fest (@lecrux.escalade )and get rekt by my old home gym?

Training: reintroduced
1. Edge lifts: 4 lifts 2x/week, 10-15s @ 20mm with 55lbs on my non try hard days
2. Wrist curls, extensions, pronation, supination, 1 set of 5-7 reps with 22.5 lbs.
3. 2 sets of rpe 8 scapula pull-ups
4. Hamstring activation via single leg hip thrust hold (helps a lot for me) by @smolkhoa

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a month ago

2026 08 28 beginning of strength phase
woah a v8 from chab! i've been on and off this for a bit, never fully committed. a lot of footwork involved here and pressing with your calves/toes. really satisfied with my stability on this !

i say beginning of strength phase, but im going on vacation in literally a day lol. gonna hike around the banff area. so mini climbing deload.
Im up to 63 smthg kgs now, used to sit around 60-61 pre july.
hopefully its mostly muscle weight im packing since i reintroduced strength training lol.
ill probably lose some weight due to the hikes, but hopefully ill maintain my strength.

fingers: saw @juliendescheneauxphysio a few weeks ago. he suspects a tenosynovitis on my left middle a2. so ive been doing a lot of finger glides, finger extensor reinforcement, modified abrahangs / no hangs (i prefer low intensity longer duration for now) while putting a lot of emphasis on flexing my pinky and index. I love the chisel grip a bit too much which could be a reason why i bias my middle and ring finger oops! by @smolkhoa

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2 months ago

2026 08 25 capacity training...
literally just spamming sub maximal stuff while keeping tension and paying extreme importance to technique and feet sensitivity.

I can do v5-7s with minimal rests with ease, even if sleep is bad. Just went through a deload week, ultra short sessions as mentioned in the previous reels + had 4 days completely off.

After spamming this, I did Dips, Rows, IYTs, and some bodyweight hip thrusts / glute bridges.

alr goodnight by @smolkhoa

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2 months ago

2026 08 21 Japanese Climbing Socks! (socks vs socks but 🇯🇵 lol)

Huge thanks to @gambasockgang . Been following them before they even announced pre-orders. Thanks for reaching out and sending me a pair even though shipping probably cost y'all a lot!
NOT SPONSORED, just grateful :D

Everyone judges me, but been wearing socks since early 2026. Seriously, the thin ones (ballet, Amazon, Uniqlo)... Give them a try. Way more hygienic, shoes smell less, if you have la sportiva shoes they won't dye your feet anymore, sometimes it might help prevent your heel from slipping, it will help prevent excessive sweat in the shoe.

Wasn't a believer until I tried v8-9 lecrux slabs with and without socks and barely felt any difference! by @smolkhoa

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2 months ago