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Soumya Ayer

@soumyayerwrites

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Highlights for me at the Porunai Museum in Tirunelveli were many. Astonishing tin-bronze artefacts, giant burial urns, red and black pottery, ancient swords crafted by blacksmiths, glass and shell bangles, an eleventh century Chinese coin and many more. This region was thriving thousands of years ago. The museum showcases archeological finds along the Porunai river basin including the ancient port of Korkai famous for its pearl divers. It was an afternoon well spent. While the thermometer outside touched 40 degrees, I encountered a past that I never found in the pages of my history books at school. #porunaimuseum by @soumyayerwrites

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2 months ago

Our group had the unique opportunity to climb up the gopuram at the spectacular Azhagiya Nambi Rayar temple at Thirukkurungudi, all five stories of it, up steep steps, using a rope for support. It was worth the effort. The gopuram has been restored and reclaimed from overwhelming bat guano. Delightful wood carvings decorate every floor and the tapering roof at the summit is in the shape of an inverted ship’s hull, a testament to the skill of the wood carvers of the region. With the Western Ghats visible through the gopuram windows, this place evoked a sense of peace and calm. The temple itself is a masterpiece with wondrous carvings and examples of dynamic storytelling expressed in stone. by @soumyayerwrites

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2 months ago

Vettuvan Kovil, the Ellora of the South, masterfully sculpted into a rocky hill, is an 8th century sculptural jewel. We arrived at the base of this granite hill, where female fortune tellers tried to entice us with their cowrie-shell divination aids. Ignoring them, we made our ascent up the granite hill, as the rough winds blew. This region is subject to demon winds and you can hear their strength in the video.

As we walked on the rocky surface, we approached a parapet, where the ground plunged, revealing an astonishing sight - an unfinished monolithic rock cut temple. Like in Ellora, the ancient master builders had cut vertically from the top, working their way downwards, battling the winds, to free a large piece of rock from the surrounding hillside.

The temple features an exquisitely carved octagonal dome, floral flourishes, charming celestials and mythical beings. It’s a mystery why this temple was left unfinished. Did diviners of the past foretell the building’s future?

This site captivated our group @abhakaul3 @matsvb95 @priseshadri @mohankajayashree @seema_mohanka @shernazvaria @anithakomanthakkal @sailoopsiedaisy Thanks to @chakravarthypradeep_dr for taking us to this visual and architectural marvel! by @soumyayerwrites

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3 months ago

A heritage restoration project facilitated by @gramaantaratrust in the village of Muttur in Karnataka. The 400 year old (possibly older) structure was sinking and needed intervention. The structure should be up again in a few months time. Hopefully I can see it on a future visit. by @soumyayerwrites

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3 months ago

Sacred trees seeded sacred spaces, sprouting legends leading to centuries of reverence. These trees were a remarkable sight on the trip to South India. images are as follows:

Photo 1 Tamarind tree – an ancient tree in the Alwarthirunagari Temple, where Nammalwar poet and saint meditated.

2. Banyan tree – at Kalugamalai (Vulture Peak) next to 8th century rock-cut Jain site. The sound of the breeze whispering through its branches is soothing

3.Punnai tree – the wish fulfilling tree within Mylapore’s Kapaleeshwaran Kovil in Chennai. Pictures not permitted.

4.Bamboo tree –Legend has it that the site where the Nellayappar temple stands was a forest of bamboo. There still is a small patch of bamboo as a reminder of this within the temple. Photos not permitted.

5.Ancient Laburnum Tree at the Sthanumalya Temple in Suchindram is still revered. Considered to be ancient.

6.Peepal tree – enclosed within a roadside shrine dedicated to the guardian deity Chudala Madan. Some people consider this tree to be the abode of spirits. Such a diversity of sacred trees! There is always so much to learn on travels. by @soumyayerwrites

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3 months ago

If you are ever in Thiruvananthapuram, you must take a heritage walking tour with @aditirkrish of @storytrails. Aditi took us through the streets within the fort walls of the Padmanabhaswamy complex, enthralling us with stories of the Travancore royal family. Among the highlights was the traditional house that the musician king, Swathi Tirunal, built for his love the dancer Sundaralakshmi from Thanjavur. This was an unconventional marriage, but the king found a clever solution to legitimise it. Aditi equated the sentiment behind the building of this home to that of Shah Jahan’s Taj Mahal. Truly, the story of this Ammaveedu is a moving one.

The Mithranandapuram temple, one of the few temples dedicated to Lord Brahma was fascinating as was the Ananthankavu temple which emphasizes the ancient practice of serpent worship.

At the end Aditi received a round of applause from many docents and friends, @abhakaul3 @matsvb95 @priseshadri @sailoopsiedaisy @shernazvaria @mohankajayashree @anithakomanthakkal @seema_mohanka. We marvelled at Aditi’s ability to keep us engaged and entertained with her concise delivery of history and storytelling. by @soumyayerwrites

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3 months ago

Morning spent exploring the works of Raja Ravi Varma and his peers at Sri Chitra Art Gallery with assistant professor, conservation architect, historian and author @sharat_sunder_rajeev who was so generous with his knowledge. Can’t wait to get his fabulous book The Forgotten Atelier. Through archival research, he examines the lives and works of overlooked painters beyond the legacy of Raja Ravi Varma. Inspired by his own family history, Sharat’s research focuses on the contributions of unknown and underrepresented artists and artisans in mainstream narratives. @matsvb95 @abhakaul3 @anithakomanthakkal @seema_mohanka @mohankajayashree @priseshadri @shernazvaria @sailoopsiedaisy some eager owners of signed copies! by @soumyayerwrites

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3 months ago

Exploring the fabulous Padmanabhapuram palace with @abhakaul3 @priseshadri @matsvb95 @sailoopsiedaisy @anithakomanthakkal @seema_mohanka @shernazvaria by @soumyayerwrites

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3 months ago

From ocean to desert all in a day with travelling friends @abhakaul3 @matsvb95 @priseshadri @sailoopsiedaisy @anithakomanthakkal. Sunrise at Punnakayal beach, pit stop at Therikaadu (South Asia’s red sand desert), sunset at kanyakumari (the very tip of the Indian subcontinent). A day that began with the ocean’s soothing chorus that ended in a crescendo!! by @soumyayerwrites

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3 months ago

Salt, that basic staple that keeps us ticking, one we take for granted. And yet at one time there was a diabolical scheme set up to control its flow. Roy Moxham’s book, The Great Hedge of India, has been around for 25 years, but I discovered it only recently at the library. I was astonished by Moxham’s engrossing account of his obsessive quest for this elusive hedge (aka the Customs Line or The Salt Hedge). At its peak in the mid-19th century, this impenetrable vegetal wall built from thorny plants was nearly 2500 miles long and was policed by 14000 men. It stretched from the Indus to the Mahanadi in central India. However, unlike other historic monumental walls, this 12 feet thick and 20 feet high monstrosity disappeared from the landscape and from memories.

Moxham scoured through archives, travelling multiple times to India, to obscure places looking for this hedge, discovering that it had been put up by the British in the 19th century to enforce tax on salt, a dietary staple. Walls seeded in greed, spawn deprivation and misconduct. Moxham’s prickly pursuit led him to uncover the horrors induced by the punitive salt tax, including famines, corruption, destitution and loss of countless lives due to salt starvation. Moxham’s resolve grew as he thought it would be wrong if all signs of this oppression vanished as if it had never happened. Highly recommend this book which throws light on forgotten history. by @soumyayerwrites

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5 months ago

Today was one of those strangely serendipitous days. Met a neighbour for the first time while waiting for a bus. Got chatting and it turned out he was a collector of objects, primarily Chinese. When I told him I volunteer at the museum which inspires my writing, he kindly invited me to his home to look at his collection. I was not disappointed. He had bronzes, a beautiful agate cup, stone sculptures, jade pieces. Here are some pictures of Chinese sculpture dating from as early as the 6th century to the early 20th century, in different medium including lapis lazuli. Came away with a stash of books. Sometimes you don’t have to go very far to find treasure. by @soumyayerwrites

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7 months ago

In December 2017, I travelled to Fort Kochi, Kerala, while working on the setting for my Middle-Grade novel #theGhostofMalabar. Walking along Bazaar Road, I came across this wayside shrine, a focus of great devotion. I was confused by the garlands on the cross and the oil lamps and paused in fascination.

The cross is known to locals as Prandhtan Kurishu, probably a modification of a Portuguese term that was used to describe it. The dates mentioned on the roof of the shrine refer to the year 1550, and also to an oath of 3rd January 1653, marking this as an old and important place for the local Christian community (predating the arrival of the Portuguese), one of the oldest Christian communities in the world.

It is believed that by praying at this shrine, stolen objects can be found again. Today, this shrine is visited by people of all faiths. This holiday season, wishing everyone who is celebrating, a Merry Christmas. by @soumyayerwrites

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10 months ago