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Duh Yi-Shiou

@allenduh88

2.7K

followers

643

following

Curious about science. Powered by climbing
👨‍🎓 Physics PhD at Stanford
🧗‍♂️ First Taiwanese🇹🇼 climber send V14
👇 Goldfish Trombone (V14) documentary

POSTS STORIES REELS TAGGED

Absolute.Tension Field V9
FA @eric_climbing
Set @allenduh88 @eric_climbing

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Two Cities V5
Set and FA @eric_climbing @allenduh88

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In my 20s, the drive was mostly to win a competition.
In my 30s, I’m starting to see training differently.

At 9 PM, with one hour left before the gym closes, I wrap up fabrication, rush over, and try to keep this biweekly update alive.

Most people are heading home when I walk in.

And somehow, after 50 minutes shaking on the floor, I feel relieved.

I’ve been incredibly lucky to spend so much of the past ten years climbing. I’ve had the privilege of training seriously, chasing podiums, and letting climbing occupy a huge part of my life.

But lately, I think I understand another side of training better.
Most of us are running through the hustle and bustle of life. Research, work, relationships, responsibilities, uncertainty. Sometimes exercise is not about becoming the strongest version of yourself.

Sometimes it is simply an oasis.

I stop thinking for a moment, feel my body again.

Last night, I told my housemate that I felt like I was about to break. Nothing about my life had changed after training. The science still needed to be finished. The future is still indescribable.

But somehow, I had enough energy to try again from 90% to 100%.

That might be what training means to me now.
Not only preparing for the next competition, but building a body and a mind that can carry me through a long life.

Back to now, here are this week’s new movements :)

They’re challenging and very fun. Hope you find your own little oasis in them.

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Hi, I’m Yi-Shiou. I started this account to share the core routine I use for climbing, with new exercises every two weeks.

I’ve practiced these routines for more than half a year. What began as extra training has become an indispensable warmup, and one of the most grounding parts of my life.

There is a difference between simple and easy.
Simple means straightforward. Easy means requiring little effort.

Climbing training has become simple because the knowledge is already out there. Most of us know what to do. But doing it consistently is not easy.

The world is full of noise, temptation, and short videos competing for our attention. I felt myself becoming someone I did not want to be.

Last year, I felt trapped in a PhD that seemed to have no end while also going through emotional pain. These exercises did not solve everything, but they gave me something small I could return to.

Again and again, I came back to the floor and finished the movements. That consistency slowly pulled me out of the abyss. My core became stronger and more stable, but more importantly, so did my soul.

Eventually, it helped me earn my first-ever win at a collegiate climbing competition.

Afterward, my coach, Ogawa sensei, told me:
“The most important thing is to keep going. I can show you the direction, but whether you continue depends on you. The talent to continue is something every athlete can build.”

I thought I would perform better at Nationals this year. I didn’t.

But perhaps staying optimistic after disappointment and continuing to work toward something far away matters more than one good result.

A long-term goal is frustrating by nature. It rarely gives immediate feedback. These are bodyweight movements, so there is no number proving I am improving. I repeat them and trust that something is changing.

Graduation, job titles, and income are easy to measure. The quieter milestones are not: becoming more disciplined, rebuilding trust in yourself, and staying on a path even when nobody can see your progress.

I enjoy this quiet time alone, training my core and my soul.
You’re welcome to join me. I’ll share a new routine every two weeks. 💪💪

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Angel Attack V10
Set @allenduh88 @eric_climbing
FA @eric_climbing

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throwback of my cousin & I from 10 years ago — time flies 🥹🙌🏼 @allenduh88

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2026 collegiate nationals! 🥇🥈

I felt different in this comp. It was me and the wall. I came to show what I'm capable of, not caring about my placement but trying to beat the routes. The only competitor I was trying to beat was myself and my execution. I went through each round only focusing on the next task at hand, the next move, the next top. I let the big picture take care of itself and enjoyed feeling out of control of everything except for myself. I come away with many things I'm proud of but also many ideas for improvement. Thank you to everyone who has supported me with belays and being here through my emotions. Without my support system I wouldn't be the same person or climber. @ my mom @roko_climbing @praj_matic @brian.orton.insta @niko_romero_ @sendy74 @carlosguzmanfitness Also special thanks to the new friends I made and for the sick Stanford jersey!! Let's climb together again! @allenduh88 @chenmutao64 thank you to @hitorii.design for supporting me! @gajdaphotography

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We are excited to invite you to spectate tonight at Boulder Bash 9 Onsight Finals!
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The top 12 competitors from our Redpoint Round will battle it out tonight for just 3 podium spots (and cash prizes) in an onsight finals round.
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Let’s hear it for your #boulderbash 9 finalists:
• @elliot.shindo
• @analise_vh
• @garrbo_
• @ariefrnagara
• @_gabrielkang
• @jules_climbs
• @amiguyclimbz
• Nathan Wu
• @allenduh88
• @niko_sennds
• Madeleine Van Hoang
• @baklavva
…
In this exciting format, competitors will have a short preview window and then do their best to send a series of boulders in a time-limited window. Each boulder will test a different skill set, and the most well-rounded climber is likely to come out on top.
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Event is free, $5 for Pizza + Beer + Raffle Ticket, or free with your Boulder Bash 9 Reg! If you want to claim your prize from the BB9 Redpoint Round you must be present at awards tonight!
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#bridgesrockgym #bayareabouldering #bayarearock #elcerrito #eastbay #bayareaclimbing #berkeley #albanyca #richmondca #yoga #bayareayoga #routesetting #worldcupweekly #competitionclimbing #compclimbing

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Yellow 💛 WCW @bridgesrockgym !

Gotta train my sloper game yo. The top could have been so much easier if my wrists were stronger and didn't feel like they would separate/dislocate under enough load. However, my wrists wouldn't get significantly stronger by the time this bloc is stripped today so I just had to get more technical with it.

The inside toehook was a little weird at first but it was key for offsetting the load on my wrists to my body position instead. Even on a low energy sesh, I was finally able to get a proud and controlled send on this last night. Wahoooo! Kneebar dab included. 😝

Shoutout to @allenduh88 @elliot.shindo @joshlevin94 @behrens_boulders @climbthatshit @veronica24532 for the fun seshes and support!! 🙏

08.25.2025

#bouldering #comp #style #sloper #crux #finish

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TANGERINE THROWDOWN 🍊
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The strongest group of Bay Area climbers I've been a part of. This one of a kind garage comp was full of good vibes, cheering people on, and watching everyone crush the creative sets by @joshlevin94. Huge thank you to Josh for putting it all together and inviting us out. Can't wait for the next one! 🙌
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#TangerineThrowdown #InternationalFederationOfSunnyvaleClimbing #garagecomp #sunnyvale #climbing #bouldering #competition

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Blue 🔵 WCW @bridgesrockgym!!

Many seshes to learn the paddle. My left hand desperately latches my body's swing back into the wall on this repeat send. Learning to jump straight up instead of just diagonally to the left helped a lot. The rest of the sequence was awkward and heavy on my hips lol. My readjustments felt so rough and sloppy so I am reminded that I should stretch more. Grateful for the lessons. Proud of the sends before it comes down tomorrow.

06.01.2025

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First (and probs last 🤣) time on a national podium! Fun times at USAC Collegiate Nationals 👾
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#saltlakecityclimbing #gumby #usacclimbing #rockclimbing #climb #calclimbing #berkeley #usac #unparallel #rockclimbing #bayareaclimbing #bruh

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