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Andy Salo

@andywsalo

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Join us for a stewardship day at Lone Rock Point this Sunday, July 12th at 9:00am. We’re partnering with @rockpointvt to help maintain this beautiful space, and we would love to have you there!

We will meet at the lower parking lot of the Rock Point Center at 20 Rock Point Road. Please note that this is not the typical parking for climbing at Lone Rock (the upper lot). If you plug the address into Google Maps it will bring you right there!

We’ll provide bagels & coffee at the trailhead in the morning. Please bring your own lunch, water, snacks, sturdy shoes, and appropriate attire, and don’t forget to pack out anything you bring!

Please fill out the form and waiver (in our bio) ahead of time to let us know you’ll be there.

📸 @anna.gutwin

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They said it could never be done #gunks #bouldering #gunksbouldering #whitedot #rosendalebouldering @gunksapps

Cover photo: Junior on the toilet seat problem spotted by the Salos

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Andy Salo didn’t set out to establish the hardest route at the Gunks—he just wanted to see what was possible. In this episode, he breaks down his approach to climbing as a process, not just a chase for an end goal. Instead of picking a climb and forcing it to happen, he lets curiosity guide him, which led him to the Brozone and beyond. If you’ve ever wondered about the mindset behind next-level first ascents, or how a route goes from an idea to reality, this conversation is worth a listen.

Listen wherever you get your podcasts, or at the link in our bio.

#firstascentpod #firstascentpodcast #climbingpodcast #rockclimbing #climbingculture #firstascent #tradisrad #tradclimbing #sportclimbing

Video clips from Black Diamond's, "The Lifer" film directed by Mike Call, concept by Sam Elias on Youtube.
Last video clip of Andy on Death's Head Mask 5.12d X in the Gunks, footage from @headpointhandbook 's Youtube.

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Andy Salo has been climbing long enough to see ethics, styles, and entire crags evolve—but some things never change. In this episode, he shares stories of route development, first ascents, and the sometimes heated debates over bolts, risk, and what makes a climb truly worthwhile. He reflects on the early days of sport climbing, the trial-and-error process of putting up new routes, and the lessons learned along the way. Whether you’re into climbing history, love a good first ascent story, or just want to hear from someone who’s spent a lifetime shaping the cliffs we climb today, this conversation is full of insight, humor, and the kind of perspective that only comes with time on the rock.

Link to this killer episode in bio.

Photo Credit 📸:
1 + 2 - Andy attempting Best Things in Life Are Free, 5.14d R, Photos by Francois LeBeau @francoislebeau
3 - 6 - Andy onsighting Ultra Instinct, 5.13a at Underwood Canyon, Adirondacks, Photos by Jim Lawyer @jimlawyer
7 - Andy onsighting The Witness, 5.12d at the Crime Scene, Adirondacks, Photo by Jim Lawyer @jimlawyer
8 - Photo by Greg Elgin @greg_elgin

#firstascentpod #firstascentpodcast #climbingculture #tradisrad #tradclimbing #sportclimbing

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Andy Salo has been climbing since 1998. The sport’s history has always been something that fascinated him, and he got to delve into it writing both the Gunks Bouldering and Gunks Routes books. Working on these projects with Wolverine blossomed into more of a steady job, and in 2021 he and his wife Whitney relocated to the Western Slope of Colorado. In 2023, his son Western was born, joining him and Whitney at the crag. 1st photograph by @s.ted

Thank you for all your hard work, Andy!

#guidebooks #author #bouldering #rockclimbing

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Andy Salo and Whitney Boland are modern day Gunks legends. @andywsalo has FA’d some of the hardest routes in the area and co-writes the brilliant guidebooks (get them through @wolverinepublishing ). He also LOVES the history - which is easy to see in the guides.

@whitneyboland moved to the area and gained her local status not only through a zip code and crushing rock climbs, but by going deep into the history herself and writing the Flashback series about Gunks legends, which you can find both in Andy’s guidebooks and on the @rockandsnow blog.

In this episode, we discuss the scene and history at The Gunks, what factors contributed to the Gunks being such a powerhouse in the 80’s, the magic of @_linacolina_ and what it’s like to be a short woman in climbing.

Brought to you by @rab.equipment and @tensionclimbing

Everywhere you get pods. 🎧

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In 1983, after years of climbing on Yosemite’s granite cracks with John Long and the Stonemasters, Lynn Hill went on a roadtrip. First to Arizona, then to Colorado and finally Red Rock, outside of Las Vegas. While on the road, she and Long established some of the most classic routes in the country, and Lynn started to glimpse her own power.

After a brief foray into Hollywood stunts, she traveled to the Gunks to climb for a magazine article and photoshoot.

What happened next is history.

Everywhere you get pods. 🎧

Season 2 of Written in Stone is generously supported by @rab.equipment

This episode is brought to you by @tensionclimbing

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For anyone who’s interested in my doc: Time Eraser— A Climber’s Legacy is now online and free to watch! Feel free to share it.

Check it out here:
Vimeo:
http://Vimeo.com/899109922

YouTube: https://youtu.be/-Sv_VVM71fo

You can also click the links in my bio.

Thank you to everyone who helped me to make this project real!

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Are you squeezing in another summer climbing trip, and wondering where to go? Head to our website and check out our latest blog post, “Summer Climbing at the Gunks”. The post is packed with valuable beta from local experts so you can beat the heat, avoid summer’s other climbing perils, and make the most of your trip. Link in bio!

#rockclimbing #climbing #climbon #guidebooks #newpaltz #newyork #newyorkclimbing #thegunks

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A hand full of photos from this past weekend’s #riflerendezspew @rifle_climbers always know how to throw a fun party and never take themselves too seriously. Happy to see the new and familiar faces in the canyon:) 🥳✨🙌

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Spring and fall are the recommended times to climb at the Gunks, but summer can be great. We’ve consulted the experts, @tallereric and @andywsalo, coauthors of Gunks Climbing, for choice tips for climbing at the Gunks in the summertime.

1. There are sometimes closures to protect peregrine nesting on some of the cliffs. To get beta, you could check @gunksclimbers or contact the @mohonkpreserve. Right now some cliffs are closed to climbing. This changes every year depending on the nesting sites.

2. There are some insects, reptiles and plants to watch out for. Namely chiggers, ticks, copperhead snakes and the occasional patch of poison ivy. Andy recommends doing a thorough tick check after climbing but also just stay out of tall grasses. As for chiggers, Eric advises against sitting on ledges while belaying. The copperheads shouldn’t be a huge issue as long as you don’t provoke them (no snake handling, grandma!)

3. What are the coolest climbs? Andy says you should hit spots that face northeast because those will be in shade most of the day. Good choices are Bonnie’s Roof / Ant’s Line area, Double Crack area and Ridiculissima area. You could climb a moderate route to gain the Grand Traverse Ledge, such as Easy V, Andrew or Moonlight. Once on that ledge, do top pitches only. This breezy section is out of the trees and tends to feel less humid.

4. Eric says the Gunks are very accessible - you can use any vehicle, bike or motorcycle and usually find parking. Approaches are mostly flat walking on carriage roads. This easy access makes the Gunks super popular, especially on weekends. If you want to avoid crowds climb farther, harder or “dirty”.

Last, cool down by grabbing a beer in town or hanging at one of the many local swimming holes! #gunksclimbing #rockclimbing

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