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There is no spoon
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I’m a gym rat these days. Climbing isn’t life anymore (though I’m still at the gym 4/5 days a week), and I don’t often talk about former adventures, exploits, lives, because my world circumnavigates a larger existence. But when I started climbing, there weren’t many gyms. At 24/25, I moved to the biggest and most famous outdoor gym I could: Yosemite.

In 2008/09, I had the opportunity to work with an illustration agency as a signed illustrator, but that same week I got a call from concessions at YNP to work at the grocery store for minimum wage with free housing. I traded one dream for another. I never regretted it.

Blasting Metallica and Michael Jackson on climbs (Death Magnetic came out that year, and MJ died that summer) I learned how to climb the old-fashioned way: with crusty old hard men, scary whippers, popped pieces, and, yeah, a little aid and a little French free on miles of granite. My ankles still spontaneously give out to this day from rolled ankles on talus during late night descents in the dark. This experience sculpted my life for nearly a decade.

Crippling anxiety was part of the landscape then. That lesson stuck: no matter how scared, perseverance comes from physically pushing through. These days the fear shows up differently, and hardly at all. But the muscle is the same.

1. Waiting our turn on a natural ledge on the prow 
2. First time on Royal Arches, subsequent visits later we’d free solo it
3. Route checking on Free Blast (before iPhones, I’d print topos and laminate them with packing tape)
4. First full trad lead - all five pitches of the 5.9 variation of Nutcracker
5. Another one from first time on Royal Arches. 
6. Laps before work on Generator crack
7. Belaying on the ledge
8. Brad and Ryan on The Prow
9. Sleepy on the ledge at night
10. Sleepy on the ledge morning
11. B and Ryan on the prow
12. B hauling. 
13. Obligatory summit photo
14. After summit in Tuolomne.
15. Entry pitch on the Nose on El Cap, doing summer time free trials up to sickle ledge. 
#dirtbagclimbers #elcap #yosemite #housekeepingcamp
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800+ km. 35 days. One snail.
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