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UIAGM / IFMGA licensed mountain guide, Owner/ Chief guide JHMG, Lead Guide JH Mountain Resort Alpine guides, AMGA instructor and examiner.
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Certified. 

Last week, I passed my @amga1979 Rock Guide Exam in Red Rock, NV. Three years after my first course here, and despite some existential crises leading up to it, the exam played out as my smoothest AMGA program to date. Still, we dealt with demoralizing high temperatures and an improvised rescue of another party injured by rockfall. 

To my knowledge, I’m the only guide openly “they/them,” medically transitioned, whatnot, etc, to be certified in a discipline. The practical aspects of that are basically being out to all my peers, instructors, and clients; being held to a higher standard of professionalism, and facing more risk in traveling or meeting climbing partners. I’m not sure how much such a “first” matters to anyone else. Sometimes, it feels mundane to me. It’s what I signed up for. Other times, it feels meaningful - in moments that often catch me off guard. I’ve also been reflecting on ways that I seem different (or not) from other mountain guides, aside from the way I look. 

A lot of thanks are due, but as a start, shoutout to: 
 • @scarpana and @bookofsamuel for supporting this exam as my SAMI capstone project
 • @valleyshoerepair for the fast, fresh resole
 • everyone who climbed with me in preparation for and during my rock programs
…especially multipitch clients; working with you gave a real foundation for the advice I got to “just guide how you would actually guide it.”
 • everyone who short-roped with me (truly a thrilling activity)
 • and especially @jameswhoclimbsrocks 

See ya later, Vegas. 

Photo by @ladylockoff from a few years ago on Yin and Yang
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