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Mutation of the Guard: Understanding UXA

There is a slew of smaller brands active in the early 2000s that remain under appreciated in the modern era. Unfortunate in some respects, particularly given the current appetite for conspicuous 2K aesthetics, but perhaps era-appropriate that they continue to be gatekept. UXA, a New York streetwear label with heavy connections to the city’s venerated skate scene, completely meets this criteria. Founded circa 1999 by Peter Huynh, Jeff Pang and Peter Bici, the formula for success was seemingly in place: bona fide underground clout, Supreme-affiliation and elite international stockists (think Colette, Slam Jam etc.) A minimalistic graphic protocol picked up where the legendary CREAM skateboards (also masterminded by Huynh and Pang along with Rick Ibaseta) had left off, while adding a fresh comic book-informed symbolism to rival that of w)taps.

At its mid-aughts peak, UXA was producing multi-category apparel collections as well as collaborative footwear projects with the likes of Nike, DC and DVS. Scale, however, proved elusive “We did do our own thing, but it was never a money maker for us” Pang revealed in 2020. “Sometimes it was sustainable and sometimes we’d need to fund it out of our own pockets to keep it going.” The brand has resurfaced sporadically since a gradual cease in wholesale operations, with Huynh seemingly now solely at the helm. But even the latest output (primarily consisting of 1/1 custom crossgrain fleece and field jackets) echoes the broader UXA legacy through its classic graphics and guerrilla production methods. Whatever form its next iteration takes, the conditions for a UXA return arguably feel more conducive than ever.
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