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Freedom to roam
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Satu lagi 🇮🇩
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Rip Curl Search redux 🔥🔥 minus the b roll I shot all the surfers in 10 minutes between being in the water and rushing to catch my plane. Not the waves of the day, but you couldn’t look away without something insane going down.
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I should just caption this, “We had a go at a few of these in the front yard today - all time!” and leave it at that. But continue on for the full swing. Swell of the season started the morning with over wash coming into the yard and one friend’s board getting swept away and bashed into a tree. Another snapped a board during a clean up set and then lost the backup to the lagoon on a failed attempt. The next in line caught lickings including a bloody skull getting dragged across the reef (he went right back out). And I got a nice reef and lagoon tour and 6 on the head after my leash ripped off my ankle in a closeout. Later in the day our panga rolled at anchor in front of the house in the huge shore womp, losing the motor and we had to cut the stabilizers free to the river-like current to get it back over. Mother Ocean’s daily give and take. Barrels were had by all. We are still grinning like fools. Basically, “all time day”.
40
Got back on the road again after a few months in Southern CA / North Baja.  The ocean went flat for the last few weeks of July, so was waiting it out until finally a swell popped up on the radar just in time, and so the Baja mission and final van trip lined up, all systems go.  Plan is to sell the van in Cabo and to continue traveling southbound, reaching Argentina (home) by December.  Daunting task to think about posting fotos from the last week in baja, which literally blew my mind.  My first full Baja drive from tip to tip, more to come!  Here’s to getting lost amongst the cacti
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@the_hashlab #vanlife #toro #bajamissions #chasingswell #flowradlife #travelstories #cacti #norespect #livesimply
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