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These look like something out of the Lorax.

Forty-year-old Chardonnay in Knights Valley, in a block called West Block. At some point Knights Bridge stopped trellising it and started training every vine by hand into a head — a ring of canopy pulled up and over the fruit, notched into the top of a stake. 

From the row they read as little trees. Truffula, basically.

It isn’t for looks. The canopy shades its own fruit, which matters because nothing here gets irrigated. The block is dry-farmed, so the vines go looking for water instead of waiting for it. Yields dropped when they made the switch. That was the trade, and they took it.

Swipe through and watch it narrow. Sonoma, then Knights Valley — 36,000 acres with only about 2,000 planted, two wineries in the whole appellation. Then the estate. Then one block out of seventeen. Everything in that bottle comes from that one shape on the map.

They’ve been working this single plot for years now, adjusting it season by season, and what’s coming out of it at this point is genuinely special Chardonnay. Nobody had to farm it this way. They did it anyway.

Little trees on a hillside, making something nobody else is making.
29
Time well spent.
10
European summers just hit different
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