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John Long

@johnloellong

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John Long, @johnloellong Camp 4 Yosemite Valley photo Earl Bates @earlbatesojai

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We need to talk about stone master and climbing legend @johnloellong opening up about his steroid use post climbing career. In outdoor magazine he opens up about his experience saying "But I’ll tell you one thing for sure, interesting, and that is, there’s a reason why those things are illegal. I discovered why, and it isn’t because they don’t work. I mean, you get strong as a freakin’ black bear on those things in no time. It is absolutely crazy how strong you get on those. And that was just doing a fairly moderate dose, nothing over the top, and I quit after one cycle."

Should Rock Climbers Be Worried About Doping? https://share.google/vUGHsvfpqfAiykR03

I've spoken to over a dozen coaches about trt, testosterone and climbing and all of them didn't seem to understand the research they read. Regarding trt and an increase in Achilles injuries, it primarily happens over the first year and it seems to be because folks are just getting more active now that they're feeling better. You can see that study here: https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10638827/

But what about the increase in trigger finger you say? Yeah, it's two times as likely As Natural athletes but we know that these are overuse injuries. It's not surprising at all that folks with more energy are in the gym or on the wall longer. Also, the increase in tendon injuries is an increase of about 50 per 10,000 which should not cause alarm to anyone paying attention. You can see that Source here as well: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38703145/

Obviously not everyone should be on test. The fear mongering around it though needs to be corrected. Stay safe out there!

#rockclimbing #climbing #steroids #trt #stonemasters

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Most people look for inspiration.
Few look for truth.
@johnloellong writes about what actually happens —
When judgement fails, when ego wins,
And when experience is the only teacher left.
These aren’t just climbing stories.
They’re lessons in consequence.

Which will you start with?
#diangelopublications #booksthatmatter #climbing #yosemite #stonemasters #goldenage

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Look who we ran into at the climbing gym today! It was a high gravity day for me after not being in the gym for a while (voice over conference, migraine headaches, etc) but it was great to see Alex again. I also thought it was fun to get the pic of me with two #climbing legends.

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The Hangover 13a ✅

The hangover was first freed in 1978 by John Long. It stood as one of the earliest if not the first 5.13’s in the US. According to Long and other information out there, it had not seen a second ascent in 48 years! A route lost to time. I feel honored to potentially have the second ascent of such a historic route. Incredible to see what John Long and Stonemasters did back then, and where we are now.

📷: @camkruse (Pics taken on the lower out).
⚫️: Pic 4 is John Long on the route in 1977.

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WOW!!!! My post yesterday launched one hell of a back end conversation… It was so much fun receiving these texts, laughing, being so grateful that I was worthy of this conversation. Huge thanks to @_linacolina_ @pictures_of_fidelman Mari Gingery and Guy Keese

I’m not sure if we’re the tail end of Old School or the beginning of new school, but we’re definitely in a very different place than any other Guide service in Joshua Tree… Much love!
#joshuatree #stonemaster #stonemasters #joshuatreenationalpark #tradisrad

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I love my voice over booth but was indoors too much this week and needed to get out more than usual. So, we opted for climbing outdoors today. Climbing gyms can’t be beat for convenience but luckily we do have some outdoor options not far from us. We went from sun to fog as we drove but the cool air felt nice after this week’s heat wave. We were surprised to see a motorhome/vendor and a coffee vendor’s tent with a gas generator set up near the rock. A few climbers were also there when we first arrived but one of them asked my opinion about Point Dume and I let her know I thought it’d be much better for their soon to be group of 6 and they left. We quickly got our rope up and got some crack climbing practice in while doing our best to ignore the gas generator which was kept on the whole time (it’s been a long time since we’ve climbed there so I’m not sure if that vendor is a regular there). All told though it was still a good time climbing, being at the ocean, and seeing brown pelicans gliding by as we climbed. I’ve always appreciated California’s outdoor options and love that others were out enjoying the ocean as well. Spending time just relaxing on the beach further south in our way home was the icing on the cake.
#socalclimbing #getoutside #climber

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💸Try your Luck on the Angel Dyno 😇

Forget blackjack, find your Vegas win here where Precision meets history. ✨
V7 Angel Dyno at Kraft Boulders, Nevada.

More delicate than it looks, a subtle launch that keeps every millimeter in check. Many have tried their luck here in Vegas, following in the footsteps of legends like John Long (FA) and Lynn Hill, who pioneered the shorty crimp beta for shorty mortals like me. 😎🧗‍♂️

#KraftBoulders #V7 #BoulderingLife #ClimbersOfInstagram #RockClimbing

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📚✨ Thank you to our readers for making these titles 2025 best sellers.

Your support turns stories into movements—and we’re just getting started.

👉 Head to dapbooks.shop to explore our top 2025 best sellers and discover our full catalog of epic reads.
Which one are you adding to your shelf next?

#DAPBooks #BestSellers #ReadersOfInstagram #BookCommunity #SupportIndieAuthors EpicReads BookLove 2025Reads

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🎥 A Message from a Legend

We’re honored to share this special message from John Long, reflecting on what it was like to work with Fallon Rowe on her powerful memoir, Pay No Mind.

Raw, fearless, and impossible to put down, Pay No Mind is more than a climbing story—it’s an unflinching account of survival, resilience, and reclaiming your life when everything falls apart. Fallon’s voice is urgent, honest, and unforgettable, and John Long’s perspective on her work speaks volumes about the impact of this book.

This is an epic read that stays with you long after the final page—and it’s well worth the investment.

📘 Available now at dapbooks.shop
👉 Link in bio
✨ Our gift to you this holiday season— take 25% off Pay No Mind and all other titles in our catalog now through December 25th with code HOLIDAY25 at checkout!

#PayNoMind #FallonRowe #JohnLong #ClimbingMemoir #AdventureReads #SurvivorStories #PowerfulMemoir #DAPBooks #IndiePublishing

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🎁 Day 9 of 12: Holiday Giveaways Continue! 🏔️🔥
Today we’re heading straight into the great outdoors with the legend himself—John Long. A master storyteller, pioneering climber, and iconic voice in adventure literature, Long’s work has inspired generations to push higher, explore deeper, and embrace the wild.

For a limited time, ALL John Long titles are 50% off — whether you want to dive into a single book or go all-in with the epic box set.

✨ And one lucky winner will receive the entire John Long box set for FREE!

Enter via the link in our bio—but don’t miss snagging this incredible holiday deal if your name isn’t drawn.
Perfect for climbers, adventurers, memoir lovers, and anyone who feels most alive under an open sky.
More giveaways ahead as we close in on the final days! 🌟

#12DaysofDAPGiveaways #JohnLong #AdventureReads #ClimbingLegends #OutdoorBooks #EpicBoxSet #HolidayDeals #BookGiveaway #DAPBooks

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This weekend was the best! I hardly know where to begin…I was invited to be the keynote speaker at the Climb Smart Festival in Joshua Tree, and it was also my birthday! What a special way to celebrate, getting to reflect and share about my life in climbing and my love for Joshua Tree! And it was so wonderful to spend time with @johnloellong , @kenjiharo , and @joshuatreefriends , who have always been such role models to me and so supportive of my career! Getting to speak in front of them was truly special. And then my besties @vanessarheanne and Aidan came out to climb and we had a fantastic day where everybody sent! @lane.alexander_ and I also finally put a rope up on the mega JTree project to start feeling it out! It was a weekend of more amazing memories in this beautiful desert! On the last slide are the closing comments from my presentation, where I shared stories from my time in Joshua Tree and how it shaped me so much as both a climber and a person! ❤️

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