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Trollveggen - Winter Ascent of Suser gjennom Harryland ✅ 

Short version: we sent! 🥳🤘 

Long version (continued in comments): 

At 20:39 on March 11th, after 12 consecutive days and (11) nights on the wall, my feet stood on the ground again. Covered in equipment with oversized double boots on, and now unpracticed for nearly two weeks, I felt like a baby giraffe learning to walk. 

This mission, to make a winter ascent of this 600-meter, 18-pitch big wall aid climb on the imposing Troll Wall, used to be only a whispered-about goal of mine. After a winter big wall-style ascent of Store Blåmann (Dec 2021), this seemed like the next logical, albeit big step. The route is outrageously steep, with nearly every pitch overhanging, limited ledges, and next to no free climbing.

The team consisted of @tessgalickismith 
, @anieklith and myself. Two trusted wall partners of mine, and my ideal dream team for the project. Tess was to be the “camp mom”, helping with hauling, fixing, anchor replacement, and general camp chores, leaving Aniek and I to focus on getting the ropes up.

Our climb was carried out in a capsule big wall (bigwall or big wall?) style. Opposite to the modern “light and fast” way, we went extremely slow, and extremely heavy. The climbing alone averaged something about 8 meters per hour. We decided to repeat the camp strategies of the first ascent party,
establishing a basecamp at the bottom of the route, from where we would climb up and leave fixed ropes in place until reaching the top of Pitch 5. There, we made a portaledge camp and committed to the wall. We repeated this strategy to the top of Pitch 10, where we then moved everything to establish our second hanging camp and pulled the ropes. From here we climbed and fixed ropes to the top of the wall. 

Continued in comments…
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I built these climasheild belay mitts tonight. It has been a long time since I have made any of my own clothing. Had to start somewhere and these I need for next week. It feels weird to sew such light fabrics…. Makes me want to find a used overlock machine. These are built in 1.1 oz ripstop with climasheild apex 3.6 oz insulation quilted to the interior. Carabiner hang loops , orange. The blue loops are to easily pull them over my hands/gloves. Weigh 3 oz for the pair. Took  30 mins to cut and sew. Built these on my juki 5410, needle feed machine, this is the lightweight fabric model I use for non-woven Dyneema.  No plans build more….#alpineluddites #sewing #mittens #myog #mountaineering
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