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@roap.c

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Robin O'Leary and Alex Puccio have joined forces to offer industry leading climbing coaching

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I’ve found that treating my body to a proper warm up results in an overall better session while training- and also helps provide a line of defense against injuries. Obvious? Yeah, probably. But here’s my warm up routine— I hope it helps!

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The ROCK-OVER

One high foothold (the foot you’re rocking over), with the other foot on a lower foothold or simply smearing against the wall.

Often, the opposite hand hold is higher than the hand on the rock-over side, helping to create opposition (pushing down and across) and control the movement.

The key objective is to move your centre of mass across and over the high foot before standing up.

Rather than immediately pushing/pulling upwards, think about shifting your hips laterally towards the high foot, progressively transferring your weight onto it.

If it’s a dynamic rock-over, you can shift your weight over the higher foot and then extend the day and stand up too.

The key? Move across before moving up! Avoid trying to stand too early, as this can pull your hips away from the wall due to internal rotation of the foot - pushing the knee in and bum out. Making you lock-off more.

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Easy climb from Tufas competition @roap.c @usac.youth.82 @lasportivagram #climbing #rockclimbing #climbingcompetition #bouldering #boulderingcomp

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27 years of climbing and my warm ups look a bit different than when I was in my teens and twenties but I’m so grateful to feel healthy and capable 🙏

just takes some more warming up (probably would have been smart all along)!! I’ve learned so much from training with @roap.c even amidst all the travel of this year 😅

Let me know if you want a video on the whole warm-up routine, I’ve found it to be an unlock for a good session

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Wouldn’t climbing be so much easier if you knew what technique to use — and when to use it?
We see climbers struggle with this all the time. You arrive at a move, try it one way, adjust a foot, change your hips, pull a little harder, come back down and try something else. Eventually you might find the solution, but you’ve already spent time, energy and potentially your flash attempt.

The best climbers aren’t simply better at performing techniques. They’re incredibly good at recognizing the patterns that tell them which technique is likely to work before they even pull on.

In this video, Alex and I break down four of the major movement patterns we see again and again in climbing, and the clues you can start looking for on the wall.

DROP KNEE
Two established feet, typically relatively wide apart
An opportunity to rotate one foot and drop the knee
Directional handholds or sidepulls that reward opposition
A target that becomes easier by rotating one hip closer to the wall

ROCK-OVER
One high destination foot, with the other foot much lower or becoming irrelevant
Often the opposite hand is higher than the hand on the rock-over side
The key objective is moving the centre of mass across and over the high foot before standing

STEP-THROUGH + FLAG
One dominant foothold rather than two equally useful feet
A relatively high leading hand that gives you space to rotate underneath it
The opposite foot can cross through the body
The original supporting leg becomes the flag, counterbalancing the rotation and preventing a barn door
Of course, climbing movement goes far beyond these four patterns. There are dynos, coordination moves, pogos and countless variations. But these are positions you’ll encounter constantly, whether you’re climbing V2 or V12.
The goal isn’t just to add more techniques to your toolbox. It’s to get better at looking at a sequence and understanding why one technique makes more sense than another.

Hopefully this video changes the way you look at your next climb. check out the full YouTube now!
Thanks to ⁠ for hosting us @climbing_collective
#climbing

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Update…
I got distal bicep tendinitis back in March, just before a red rocks trip. It was due to holding Rya so much.
It persisted for months and actually stopped me climbing for a few sessions.
Chatting with @theclimbingphysio he told me to try shockwave treatment, so I headed to @laurenrudolphmd and it has seemed to be working a treat! I probably need a couple of more sessions, but I’m able to climb more.
It’s definitely been a test of patience!

I’ve been avoiding pain when climbing and doing a lot of “maintenance” climbing - repeating a lot of board climbs and playing it “safe” on the @kilterboard
Sessions @g1climbing where I look after my shoulders and fingers, warm-up and then do a flash session/quick try boulders before hitting the board.
Yesterday I repeated 12 x V10s on the board.
Looking forward to the next shockwave session and then trying hard late Autumn/Fall and winter! 🤞 #climb #climbing #bouldering #roapcoaching

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Thanks for sneaky film on this one @larsen_schla . 😉
I like the WAY TOO LONG hesitation on weather or not I’m going to double hand jump. BUT I did! 😄

Saying it’s a flash, but might have done it before getting pregnant with Rya?!?

V11 ⚡️@50 @kilterboard @larsen_schla , what’s the name??

@roap.c training 💪
@scarpa_world @scarpana

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New Proj V8-10 range, it’s not been finalized grade wise yet. Consensus seems to be V9 but we’ll see.

Finally got through the first section of the new project without major mistakes, the mental challenge of remembering what goes where and when on this boulder up to my crux has been a big one. It’s hard to stay cognizant when trying so hard to just stay on the wall.

Very psyched on this boulder though as it’s on a part of the wall I don’t climb on much in a style I’m not the greatest at. All the holds are so glassy and bad which means they don’t take much skin per attempt which is definitely a blessing and a curse 😂

#bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #climb

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Oh how I love Montana!!! This outdoor comp that the @westernmtclimberscoalition puts on is absolutely amazing! We came down for this comp 2 years ago and ever since I knew I had to come back to get this climb! This climb has a little bit of everything and is very mentally challenging as they call this boulder “the bolted boulder” I am very stoked to have came back with a mission and to walk away with it completed! I now have another mission and will be returning next year!

Corn Fed (V7)

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ELIMINATION BOULDERS!

We absolutely love elimination boulders, and for so many reasons!

1. 💪 Develop power. By eliminating certain holds, you can force yourself to make bigger, more powerful moves. You’re essentially taking an existing boulder and changing the physical demands of it, without needing a new set!

2. 🧗 Endless possibilities. Whether you’re climbing V2 or V9, there are so many variations to explore. Take away one hold, two holds, or five if you’re feeling ambitious! Eliminate handholds, footholds, or both. One boulder can suddenly become ten completely different challenges. If you are in a small gym or one that doesn’t set often, this can be a game-changer!

3. 🧠 Get thinking! This is one of our favourite benefits. You might know exactly how to climb a boulder with all the holds available, but what happens when you remove one? Does the sequence change? Do you need a different body position, a new technique, or a completely different approach? Now remove another hold. And another!

Better still, try to flash your elimination! Read the moves, visualise the sequence, anticipate the challenges and commit to your plan before pulling on. It’s a fantastic way to develop your route-reading and problem-solving skills.

4. 🙌 And finally, it’s FUN! Especially with a partner. Take turns eliminating holds, challenge each other to flash your creations and see just how difficult you can make an otherwise familiar boulder.

Next time you’re at the gym, give it a go! You might be surprised how much you can get out of a single climb.

Let us know what you think! 👇

#ClimbingTraining #Bouldering #ClimbingTechnique #RockClimbing #ROAPCoaching

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Welp, I had @paradigm_climbing_coaching video about what a Lemay was on my mind yesterday and I might have taken it too far 😂

Finding the sort of bizarre kneebar Lemay hybrid actually made the sequence go for me because i didn’t have the bicep power for the intended beta, so thanks!

#bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #climber

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Fun cordo from last night @roap.c @lasportivagram #climbing #rockclimbing #bouldering #dynoclimbing #boulderclimbing

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