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I was privileged enough to be taken to a new zone that @tiger.climbs has been developing, the first boulder that has been scrubbed up is this behemoth of block! He put up a stellar highball V9 called Teahupo’o on the main wave feature. However this line wasnt so obvious, @robinsi joined the team and masterminded/scrubbed up this powerful and unique arete line! Robin has a wonderful vision for boulders and puts up many blocks in Quebec, naming this one “Nouvelle Vague” clocking in around V7 with an awesome sit start project and a maybe potential mega hard crimp low low start! 

#squamishbouldering #squamishclimbing #boulderingproblems #grippedmagazine #climbingphotography
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It turns out the best way to flash a 5.13a is to be too tired to care.

There is an interesting paradox in my climbing: the style of the attempt completely dictates the performance pressure. Unplanned onsights? Zero stress. Early redpoint burns? Anxiety prone. Heading to The Clampdown, pressure was low. The goal was simply to support @cocosabatini, especially while feeling sore and lethargic from hitting a highpoint on a personal project the day before. Even after a sluggish 1-hour gym warmup to wake up a bruised body, the feeling was still slow and heavy. There were zero expectations.

The route is stunning, a steep, overhung 15-meter face on a giant boulder, featuring a left-leaning ramp accessed through just enough face holds. When @robinsi asked if a proper flash attempt was on the table, I said « My fingers feel a bit tweaky, if anything feels off, I’m just dropping. » Watching Coco climb it was the final piece. Knowing her style made it possible to read the route’s demands. She made the high, bunched-up heel hook mantle at the top look like hard work, and she’s flexible and amazing at heels. After taking mental notes and asking a few questions, I started prepping with precision: alcohol-cleaned hands and shoes, a right kneepad (just in case), and a tight pair of Solution’s.

The intro went down using open 3-finger drags to save those tweaky fingers. It felt surprisingly good. From there, committing through sloppy, insecure holds meant skipping clips until hitting a solid hold to avoid terminal pump. A funky heel-kneebar rest appeared, and I stayed there until my leg went numb. At the mantle, the left hand crimp Corinne described felt practically nonexistent, and the ramp looked incredibly slick. I trusted that sensitive heel rubber, committed all my weight to it, and fought through the kneepad getting caught on the lip of the boulder. Kept the tension, and stood on top!

📸: @a.eggermont

@arcteryx @arcteryxqc @lasportivana @authentik_canada @orgearco @ontarioresoles @cafebloc

#sportclimbing #leadclimbing #climbingisbliss #rockclimbing #climbing
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