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@sethgraham00 took this photo at the finish line Sunday morning and it may be one of my favorites of all time. It captured just about everything in one still shot. My broken body. My son and his love. Darkness and the stillness of the morning before dawn. Pure fucking grit, guts and determination that ended in this moment where I could finally be done.
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This is what it’s all about.
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@ltraceseries LT100.
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In July 2006 I went on a six week trip to Indonesia with my great friend, Daniel Bobis.

It was the best surf trip I’ve ever taken.

We spent a few weeks in Bali & got great waves. Then we did a boat trip out of Bali for a week, on a boat owned by a Balinese pirate named Doggy the Man. The bunk I had in the hull was near the engine & I inhaled diesel fumes while I slept for a full week.  But it was so worth it!  We scored Desert Point 2x overhead & so perfect that it was like a dream.  After that we got a massive swell at G-Land, 2-3x overhead, a close second to Desert Point in its perfection.

Danny was a 7th grade math teacher from Long Island, he played drums in a punk band, he was sober & proud of it, he loved hip hop & especially Mob Deep, & he had so much stoke & energy & laughter.

People sometimes would ask him what his ethnicity was, bc of his dark skin & Long Island accent & NYC rap-influenced dressing style. Once someone asked him if he was mulato & he responded, “Nah son. Jewish.” He was as classic as they come.

Danny died 12 years ago today, on July 24, 2011.  He was surfing a remote wave in South Sumatra & apparently it was 2x overhead & he pulled into a huge tube, & got clipped & wiped out. It’s likely he hit his head on the reef, was knocked unconscious & drowned.

I’ve thought a lot about his death these past 12 years.  Despite the shock & pain his early departure caused so many family, friends, loved one, & his then wife, Danny absolutely loved surfing & getting tubed. & he died, without knowing it was coming, but full bore into the face & embrace in doing what he loved.  I think if I had a choice on how I exit, those would be some of the conditions I’d hope for.

His presence has always felt close, & warm, & like a keeper of my personal safety.

I carry Danny in my heart, as do many others. I hope reading this today brings you a glimpse into something similar for yourself. Life is precious, & beautiful, & unpredictable, & I view Danny’s life an example of how to live in life’s awesomeness & mystery with arms wide open.

Love ya, my brother.
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