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Part I : on first impression, Coque d’Or strongly reminds me of a more raffined version of Jacques Guerlain’s famous Mitsouko : the first fruity chypre. So the story goes, in 1919, Jacques Guerlain responded to Coty’s Chypre with Mitsouko : a classical oakmoss chypre with an added, most beautiful, note of peach.
Made c1937, Coque d’Or also contains peach and oakmoss, but the mood is different. It opens on peach mixed with a rich plumb note, a hint of ripe apple and all sorts of dried fruit, along with spices and anise. If De Laire’s prunol base, now made by Symrise, was available at the time, it must have been included in the composition. 
As to the oakmoss, it smells much lighter, mellowed by orris, vanilla and a very soft musk. The overall effect is both lush and extremely smooth : Mitsouko with a smile on her face.
And the parallel doesn’t stop there. Mitsouko was inspired by La Bataille, a novel by Claude Farrère, set during the Russo-Japanese war in 1905 ; Coque d’Or draws its name from Le Coq d’Or or The Golden Cockerel, an opera first written by Vladimir Belsky, in order to mock Tsar Nicholaï II’s role in the very same war.
The Russian gouvernement censored the opera, which is really quite farcical, turning the figure of the Tsar into a ridiculous, old coward. In La Bataille, to the contrary, Mitsouko is a tragic character, who eschews modernity and forsakes freedom, when widowed, in order to embrace tradition and retire from the world.

Coq d’Or is a lush, velvety twist on Mitsouko, which remains austere with a heartbreaking streak of the softest peach.

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C’est la Vie! Such fun table hopping at Le Bilboquet on my birthday with @thisweekwithgeorgeledes Achim Daub & Chantal, @jerrylauren and his nephew Michael & his wife...#lebilboquet #symrise #thisweekwithgeorgeledes #ralphlauren
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