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The Wren

@the_wren_pub

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Pub. 1712 Aliceanna St.
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Roast chicken at home. A roast chicken is a dance every time. There is no definitive technique. This one was trussed, stuffed with a tomato that my dad gave me as I was leaving his house the other day. A stuffed cavity will slow the cooking. The tomato was getting on in age much like himself. I cored it and put it into the cavity with some bay leaf, garlic and herbs de provence. Roasted in a high oven and turned every half hour until it was done. A long rest and a small glass of water made a delicious jus gras. by @the_wren_pub
A reminder that we are now closed Saturdays. by @the_wren_pub
Menu for the next three days. by @the_wren_pub
Beginning tomorrow October 14th The Wren will cease to take reservations and we will be operating the pub more informally. A smaller daily menu will still be on offer. If you fancied the cooking before, you still will. If you didn’t… there are bags of crisps & nice pints. Hours will now be Tuesday through Friday: 5:00–9:00 for food. 10:00 for drinks. We will be Closed Saturday through Monday. Millie & I will be moving to Dublin in February and so we are in a period of transition at The Wren. In my opinion this is a beautiful pub and a distinct and natural setting to enjoy some solitude, a book, drinks with friends, maybe something nice to eat. It’s a very comfortable pub. It’s always been an obstinate restaurant. This is for us a happy development and I look forward to the slow cooking of autumn and winter. Please stop in and enjoy the pub. by @the_wren_pub
Late into service as the gratin became cool I decided to begin serving it fanned out, seared on the plancha through a piece of parchment. The salted duck was very keen on it. by @the_wren_pub
Pork rib ragu over polenta. After amassing a tidy collection of spare ribs from the bellies we process to make country pâté and petit salé, a ragu seemed like a nice idea. A deeply caramelized soffritto lengthened over hours with red wine and stock form the base. I like to make a fairly wet polenta, pour it into a terrine and allow it to slowly cool, serving it in evolving manner as it begins to set throughout service. by @the_wren_pub
A family emergency is bringing Will & Millie to the west coast this week. @rosemaryliss will be on the hobs. The pub will be closed Tuesday the 15th. Opening hours will be Wednesday the 16th—Saturday 19th, 5:00–9:00 pm for food, 10pm for the bar. We will not be taking reservations and we’ll be offering a limited menu of nice things. Please come through and say hello. by @the_wren_pub
What goes on when meat becomes mince? It becomes a bit populist. Sometimes in a very good way. Instead of making beef mince into a smash burger, you could make mince on toast, or meatloaf, or meatballs, a stew, a sauce, so many possibilities… by @the_wren_pub
Trout, creamed datterini’s & mint by @the_wren_pub
Steak tartare, fresh horseradish & toast One of my dads favorite lunches at home was raw mince & onions on saltines seasoned only with salt and pepper. Just as good as tartare in my view but something else entirely. There is a balance to tartare that gives the beef some finesse. Raw beef is both very bland and very rich. Onions add sweetness and acidity. The water content of the onion allows things to breathe. Salt brings focus and pepper contrast, complexity and depth. Everything in service to the beef. It’s Enough. Its simplicity is its strength. Just a proper marriage. By contrast, tartare is essentially a beef salad, or beef in the service of a sauce. Egg yolk, or vinaigrette emulsified with egg yolk muddles the flavor of the beef and diminishes it methinks. In my experience, balancing a tartare is quite deft as it’s firmly within the realm of a sauce. When it is on the money, it’s a very fine thing indeed. by @the_wren_pub
Ratatouille really is lovely. Millie proclaimed it to be her favorite food just last night after having a small bowlful. I love long cooked veg like the French, but with ratatouille I stew only the tomatoes along with the peppers which have been carefully roasted and peeled. They stew with sticky cloves of garlic and fists of basil in good olive oil and a bit of vinegar. Off the heat the fried aubergines and courgettes are folded in and the full assembly begins to seep their juices and basks together in summers blood. by @the_wren_pub
Trout & ratatouille on tonight by @the_wren_pub

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