Instagram story viewer> @thebetatripper> Posts
Tahoe climbing w/ thebetatripper(@thebetatripper)'s profile avatar Download

Tahoe climbing w/ thebetatripper

@thebetatripper

62
posts
1.7K
followers
2322
following
Crush the Sierra! 💪 Routes, rigs, & refuels for Yosemite, Tahoe, & Lover's Leap. Don't get shutdown—grab the BETA. Your send is waiting. 👇
POSTS STORIES REELS TAGGED
Download All
Tahoe crags feeling a little too popular lately? 🚗💨 Next time the lines at Lover’s Leap or Donner Summit have you waiting in a queue, pull off at Highway 50 and head up to Echo Summit.  With pristine granite, jaw-dropping alpine views of Echo Lakes, and a fraction of the crowds, this area deserves a spot on your Tahoe tick list. Here’s the beta you need for a stellar day on the rock: 🧗‍♂️ The Classics to Chase: • The Ramp (5.8 Trad, 3 Pitches) | Flagpole Peak 🏔️ A true mini-alpine adventure! It starts with a bit of a scramble, but leads to an outstanding hand crack on P1. Pitch 2 is the money undercling/lieback ramp with awesome exposure and killer lake views.  • Jam Session (5.10a Trad, 2 Pitches) | Flagpole Peak 🎸 If you like clean, physical granite, this is the business. Pitch 2 offers a sustained corner system with a stout offwidth crux halfway up. You won’t find clean corners like this in many places!  • Berkeley Camp Rocks (Sport Option) | Echo Lakes 🌲 Looking for a quick sport session in the shade? Head down to Berkeley Camp for well-bolted granite face climbs. Classics like First Stage (5.9) and New Jersey Turnpike (5.11b) are incredibly fun and highly secure. (Just remember to be friendly and check in with camp staff if camp is in session!)  🗺️ Getting There: • 🚗 By Car/Road Bike: Take Highway 50 to Echo Summit Road. Park at the lower Echo Lakes parking lot (by the water tower). • 🥾 By Foot: Hit the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) / Tahoe Rim Trail (TRT) north. Most approaches to Flagpole and Mid Dome are under an hour. • 🛥️ Pro-Tip: Want to save your legs? Take the seasonal water taxi across Lower Echo Lake to cut down the approach hike!  💬 What’s your go-to Tahoe sleeper crag when the classics get too packed? Let’s build the ultimate crowd-dodging list in the comments—drop your favorites below! 👇 📌 Save this post for your next weekend trip to the Basin! 📸: Mtn project GizzardJones taken in Lake Tahoe, California by @thebetatripper
6
12 days ago
Download
Welcome to the Breakfast Buffet. 🥓🍳 Most climbers wait in line for Better with Bacon, but if you head 200ft right, you’ll find a bolted pillar with a history as “spicy” as its grade. We sat down with Leap legend Petch (@loversleapguide) to archive the real story behind the route most of us call Ham and Cheese. The Name Game 🐷 While the apps call it Ham and Cheese, the “Hog” theme runs deep here. As Petch puts it: “Steve at @livingonthedge calls that area ‘the breakfast buffet.’ We were just keeping it with the Hog theme: Better with Bacon, Piglet, Wilbur, etc.” But the real history is in the upper pitches. George and Jan bolted the finishes by hand—naming the common left route “High on the Hog” and the right-trending line “Hog Out.” The “Village” FA ⚒️ This route might have the longest list of First Ascensionist names at the Leap. Petch started the line but tells us: “I did the FA to the second bolt of the second pitch, but bailed because of the rock quality.” It took Tad and friends to push through the dihedral, and George and Jan to finish the bolting by hand. The Beta Archive (Read before you lead!): The Rope: 70M IS MANDATORY. The rap stations are ~34m+. If you bring a 60m, you aren’t getting down without a walk-off. The Spice: It’s listed as 5.6, but the consensus is shifting toward 5.7/5.8. Expect 20-25ft runouts on P1 and “hidden” pitons on P2 that you won’t see until you’re clipping them. The Menu: When we asked about the sandwich name, Petch laughed: “Not sure if you can make a sandwich, no bread routes. Unless you borrowed Gingerbread from the Spires.” The “Secret” Factor 🤫 Why climb the “grungier” lines? Petch says it best: “Most climbers just stay on the handful of classics, which is great. I still have my secrets, and will probably keep it that way 😂.” What’s your take? Is this a 5.6 snack or a 5.8 meal? Let’s settle the grade in the comments. 👇 #thebetatripper #loversleap #climbinghistory #tahoeclimbing #highonthehog 📸:MTN project: Wes P taken in Lovers Leap, Lake Tahoe California by @thebetatripper
5
18 days ago
Download
The OG Rack: Why Passive Gear is Still King 👑 Before the cam revolution changed the game, there was the “Clean Climbing” movement. In the 70s, climbers like Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost pushed for a shift away from pitons, which scarred the rock toward chocks and hexes. These simple pieces of aluminum weren’t just gear; they were the catalyst that saved our crags. Modern cams are undeniably convenient, but passive gear remains the backbone of a traditional rack for a reason: The Art of the Placement: Placing a nut or hex requires reading the rock. You aren’t just slotting a trigger; you’re finding the exact constriction where the gear will lock. It’s a skill that sharpens your intuition. Weight & Simplicity: When you’re pushing into the alpine or on a long multi-pitch, ounces matter. Passive gear is lighter, cheaper, and has zero mechanical parts to fail. The “Impossible” Placement: Ever had a flare where a cam just walks or won’t sit right? A well-placed nut or hex is often the only piece of pro that will stay put in complex, irregular features. Cams might get you up the wall faster, but passive gear gets you up the wall with style. There is a specific kind of satisfaction in looking back at a perfect “seat” that no spring-loaded device can quite replicate. Do you still carry a full set of hexes, or are you strictly a cam-and-micro-nut climber? Let us know your “go-to” piece for tricky placements in the comments! 👇 #tradclimbing #climbinggear #passivepro #cleanclimbing #climbinghistory 📸: A rack discovered at @easywindgearshop @highmountaingear @petzl_official @blackdiamond @wildcountry_official taken in Davis, California by @thebetatripper
2
20 days ago
Download
Planning a trip to Castle Rock and the Sanborn area? 🧗‍♂️✨ This spot is a total Bay Area gem the density of climbing is incredible, from sport and trad to some of the best bouldering in the state. Whether you’re looking for technical face climbing or those signature “slap-happy” dynos on beautiful Vaqueros sandstone, this place has it all. But here’s the deal: Because it’s sandstone, it’s extremely fragile when wet. Climbing after a storm can permanently damage the rock, causing holds to break off. 🌧️❌ Before you pack the crash pads: 1. Check the conditions: Always visit wetrockpolice.com/castlerock to see if it’s been raining. If the rock is wet, please stay off it! 2. Consult the experts: Check the official Castle Rock State Park website for any active closures or park alerts. 3. Download your beta: Cell service is super spotty up there. Download your area photos and map guides in the app before you lose signal on the mountain. If the rock is soaked, don’t sweat it! There are plenty of great alternative spots nearby: 📍 Indian Joe Caves (Meta Basalt) 📍 Berkeley (Rhyolite) 📍 Table Mountain (Latite) 📍 Santa Cruz (Granite) 📍 Mt. Saint Helena (Volcanic) Pro-tips for your visit: Parking: The main Kirkwood lot costs $10 (worth it for the ease!), but watch out for the ditch—it’s claimed many tires! If you park outside, stick to marked zones or you risk a ticket. Keep our local rock beautiful! 🪨🙌 #CastleRockClimbing #BayAreaClimbing #SandstoneConservation #ClimbSmart #RespectTheRock @bayareaclimberscoalition @rimclub taken in Castle Rock State Park by @thebetatripper
1
a month ago
Download
The Paradox of the Project. Ever notice how the closer you get to a project, the further away it sometimes feels? We headed to the Main Wall recently with @evanwisheropp & @bigwalltrailrunner , eyes locked on a potential First Ascent roof pitch. The kind of line that haunts your dreams. But climbing isn’t a solo endeavor—it takes a village. Charles set up the portaledge, giving us the stable, hanging basecamp we needed to prep the gear. As Evan moved into the crux, the reality of the stone set in. The main crack was flared & became unprotectable. The FA wasn’t meant to be today. Evan felt the sting of disappointment. It’s easy to label that as a “failure.” But let’s look at the actual math of the day: We still climbed a stellar 5.9 pitch. We dialed in our portaledge systems. Even after a long day, Evan still had the gas to clean a beautiful 5.10 sport route. If we define success solely by the First Ascent, then yes—the project failed. But if we define success by the adventure, the skills refined, and the time spent with the crew? We walked away with a massive win. Sometimes, the “failure” to complete the objective is exactly what opens the door to the best parts of the day. How do you define success in your climbing? Is it the send, or the experience? Let me know in the comments. 👇 #LoversLeap #ClimbingMindset #TradClimbing #TheBetaTripper #FirstAscent taken in Lovers Leap, Lake Tahoe California by @thebetatripper
1
a month ago
Download
Ever wonder how we went from hauling heavy gear up big walls to the lightning-fast clips of modern sport climbing? 🧗‍♂️✨ The history of sport climbing is a story of shifting ethics and pure innovation. While traditional (trad) climbing dominated the US for decades—focusing on the “clean” style of placing your own gear in cracks—the early 1980s changed everything. Enter Alan Watts at Smith Rock, Oregon. By opting for pre-placed bolts on lines that lacked traditional protection, he pioneered a new style of climbing that allowed athletes to focus on pure gymnastic difficulty rather than just the struggle of gear placement. This “sport” style didn’t just stay in Oregon; it revolutionized the way California’s crags were approached, turning places like Joshua Tree and Yosemite into testing grounds for the world’s hardest free climbs.  And the unsung hero of this revolution? The Quickdraw. 🛠️ Before the standardized “dogbone” we know today, climbers used loose slings with two carabiners. In the early 70s, legendary climbers like Barry Bates were seen using these “quick draws” in Yosemite’s Camp 4 to speed up the process of clipping into protection. The evolution was game-changing: 🔹 Rigidity: Moving from loose webbing to stiff, sewn dogbones made clipping bolts effortless. 🔹 Safety: The development of the “rubber keeper” (popularized by brands like Petzl) ensured the rope-end carabiner stayed perfectly oriented, preventing dangerous cross-loading and making falls much safer. 🔹 Efficiency: This shift allowed for “redpointing”—the ability to work a route’s moves and perfect them—which pushed climbing grades from the 5.12s of the 70s into the 5.15s we see today.  From the rugged granite of California to your local gym wall, every time you reach up to clip a draw, you’re clipping into a legacy of innovation. What’s the most “old school” piece of gear you still keep on your harness? Let us know in the comments! 👇 #TheBetaTripper #RockClimbing #ClimbingHistory #SportClimbing #ClimbingGear by @thebetatripper
0
a month ago
Download
The Granite Heart: The Evolution of Lovers Leap If you’ve spent any time at the Leap, you know it’s more than just a crag—it’s a living archive. 🧗‍♂️✨ To look at the Main Wall is to see the history of California climbing written in granite and dykes. But how did this iconic face go from a quiet wall in the 50s to the legendary destination it is today?  The Pioneer Era: The Architects of the Leap Before the crowds and the modern classics, there were the visionaries. The 1960s and 70s saw a wave of Yosemite-based legends and local legends alike shaping the cliff. Names like Royal Robbins set the standard, but the soul of the Leap was forged by developers like Bruce Cooke and Phil Berry. They saw potential in these monolithic granite faces when the rest of the world was looking elsewhere. They laid the lines that turned the Leap into a playground of moderate, multi-pitch adventures—establishing the “Leap style” of granite climbing that feels as timeless today as it did decades ago.  The Petch Era: Stewardship & The Modern Leap Fast forward to 1993: A climber named M. “Petch” Pietrolungo arrives at the base of the wall. He came for a quick trip, found home, and stayed for over 30 years.  If the 60s were about discovery, the “Petch Era” has been about deep, personal stewardship. Petch didn’t just climb here; he integrated himself into the fabric of the crag. Through his guide service, trail maintenance with CRAGS, and a string of his own first ascents, he bridged the gap between the old-school pioneers and a new generation of climbers. He transformed the Leap from a “locals’ secret” into a globally respected school for the next generation.  The Evolution The Leap hasn’t just survived—it has evolved. From the early days of raw exploration to the modern era of conservation and community, the Main Wall remains a constant. Whether you’re climbing the classics established by the pioneers or a modern line put up by Petch, you’re climbing a route that’s part of a much bigger story. Respect the rock, honor the history, and keep the tradition alive. 🤙 #thebetatripper #loversleap #tahoelife #climbinghistory #graniteclimbing @loversleapguides taken in Lake Tahoe, California by @thebetatripper
10
a month ago
Download
Trading the polished granite of Tahoe for the raw, weathered cracks of the Crystal Basin. 🏔️🔍 Basalt Bluff isn’t your typical Tahoe day out. It’s a bit of an adventure just to reach the base—expect some bushwhacking and a scramble up a scree field to get there. But once you’re standing at the base, it’s like stepping into a different geological world. The vertical basalt have a distinct, “Devil’s Tower-esque” quality that you just don’t find anywhere else in the region. It’s quiet, it’s steep, and it’s a refreshing change of pace from the standard granite fare. I’ve been diving into the history of this crag to piece together its story. As Bob Branscomb shared in our recent correspondence: “Most of our stuff was ground up. a couple of climbs on Basalt Bluff in the Xtal Basin were toproped to see if would go.” A quick note for the curious: keep an eye out for loose rock and “death blocks.” It’s a raw crag that demands respect, but the quality of the climbing makes it one of the basin’s best-kept secrets. Looking to explore this bit of history? You can find the full breakdown in Bob Branscomb’s Crystal Basin booklet, available at The Bookery in Placerville. Have you ever stumbled upon a “mini Devil’s Tower” in your own backyard? Let me know where to look next. 🧗‍♂️ #thebetatripper #climbinghistory #basaltbluff #crystalbasin #tahoeclimbing @laketahoeclimbingguides @loversleapguides @rimclub @climbingmagazine @bookeryplacerville taken in Loon Lake (California) by @thebetatripper
1
a month ago
Download
📸: Darren the president of the Rock Ice and Mountain club in action cleaning up. Climbing is a privilege, not a right. And the health of our crags is the direct result of our collective responsibility. 🧗‍♂️✨ This past weekend, we headed out to Robert Louis Stevenson State Park to give the Blind man’s bluff some much-needed love. Huge thanks to The Rock Ice and Mountain Club and the Bay Area Climbers Coalition (BACC) for organizing this effort. We spent the day pulling trash, performing essential trail maintenance, and focusing on sustainable crag management. The “Why” It’s easy to focus solely on the movement and the grade, but the “beta” for long-term climbing access starts long before you lace up your shoes. Stewardship is the foundation. When we organize for trail maintenance, we aren’t just cleaning up—we’re actively demonstrating to land managers and park authorities that the climbing community is a responsible, invested stakeholder. Small impacts matter. A well-managed trail prevents erosion; picking up a rogue micro-trash wrapper keeps the ecosystem healthy; respecting the crag boundary ensures the area stays open for the next generation of climbers. Supporting organizations like the BACC & The Rock Ice and Mountain Club is how we protect the future of the sport we love. If you’re climbing in the Bay, consider how you can give back to the places that give us so much. Have you participated in a crag cleanup recently, or is there a local area you’re looking to get involved with? Let’s talk about how we can better steward the places we play. 👇 #ClimbingAccess #Stewardship #BACC #TheRIMClub RobertLouisStevenson @rimclub @bayareaclimberscoalition @napavalleystateparks taken in Robert Louis Stevenson State Park by @thebetatripper
1
a month ago
Download
They named it “The Pie Shop.” 🥧 And yet, in all my trips here, I have never once been served a warm slice of apple pie. I’m honestly starting to think it’s a conspiracy. But if you’re looking to get your fill, the local supply of “stiff” grades and granite classics is pretty much endless. If you’re planning your first trip out, here’s the menu I recommend: 🧱 The Boulder Must-Do: The Whopper (V4) – Iconic name, even better moves. It’s the kind of problem that makes you feel like a hero for a split second before the granite reminds you who’s boss. 🧗 The Trad Essential: Crepes Corner (5.7) – If you’re looking to build your confidence on Tahoe granite, start here. It’s pure, old-school climbing that feels like history under your fingertips. ⚡ The Sport Burn: Gimpy Old Men (5.10a) – A local favorite for a reason. It’s got that perfect blend of pumpy moves and technical footwork. The Beta: Since there’s no pie, bring your own snacks. And please, be respectful—these walls are close to homes. Pack it out, keep the noise down, and leave the neighborhood better than you found it. Have you climbed at The Pie Shop? What’s your favorite route (or boulder problem) that keeps you coming back? Drop the name below! ⬇️ #TheBetaTripper #TahoeClimbing #ThePieShop #ClimbingBeta #GraniteClimbing 📸: Mtn project Blitzo Pie Shop @loversleapguides @laketahoeclimbingguides @norcalcrags @bayareaclimberscoalition @rimclub taken in Lake Tahoe, California by @thebetatripper
0
2 months ago
Download
Climbing has changed a lot since back then so that it feels, at least to me, that it’s harder to feel that lunatic sense of adventure that we were fortunate enough to experience.” — Bob Branscomb. I’ve been diving deep into the history of the Cosumnes River Gorge (CRG) and the Highway 50 corridor, and I recently had the privilege of chatting with local legend Bob Branscomb about the “ground-up” era of the 1970s and 80s. Before sport climbing and modern hardware took over, the CRG and Mosquito Bridge were the training grounds for a small, tight-knit crew—mostly Bob, Ron Vardanega, and the late, great Don Garrett. They weren’t just climbing; they were preparing for the big walls of Yosemite, flinging themselves at local granite to get stronger. The vibe? Extremely bold. We’re talking run-out friction slabs protected by just a few 1/4” bolts, and fierce, sustained cracks led on nothing but hexes and stoppers. As Bob puts it, they were “very strict about the ground-up thing” to emulate the heroes in the Valley. While the gear has evolved and modern legends like Bobby Hutton and Nye Grant have retrofitted these routes to be safer, the history remains in the stone. Whether it’s the early 1960s “Pioneer Route” or the 70s-era classics like River Daughter and Grizzly Green, the Gorge is a testament to an era where the adventure was as much about the mental game as the physical movement. Huge thanks to Bob Branscomb for sharing these memories and for his decades of dedication to documenting this “granite gem.” 🧗‍♂️✨ #TheBetaTripper #CosumnesRiverGorge #RockClimbingHistory #TradClimbing #NorCalClimbing @bobbyhutton1989 @loversleapguides @norcalcrags tahoeclimbingcoalition @rimclub taken in Folsom, California by @thebetatripper
1
2 months ago
Download
Split personality. 🪨✨ Short on time but need to get some reps in? Head to Split Rock at Ring Mountain. This Marin County gem is a “quick-hit” favorite, packing over 20 top-rope routes into two 50-foot long 20 foot high boulders. While the climbing is undeniably short, the variety is surprisingly huge—ranging from 5.6 cruisers to tricky 5.11s. It’s the perfect spot to train endurance, introduce beginners to top-roping, or just squeeze in a session when you don’t have time for a long approach. 📍 The Beta: The Rock: High-quality serpentine. It’s great for crimps, but keep an eye on your feet—it can get slick! Anchors: You’ll find drilled holes (bring dyneema slings/cordelette) on the right side and a large chockstone in the split for other routes. Bring some long slings and a small trad rack (offset nuts/cams) just in case. Getting There: Park at the end of Taylor Rd, take the trail due west for ~50 yards. You’ll see the rock immediately. Pro-Tip: The climbing here can be quite “contrived”—but that’s part of the fun! Use the chimney to catch your feet or keep things spicy by avoiding it. ⚠️ Local Reminder: This is a popular hiking area, so be aware of folks passing by or even walking near the top. Always inspect fixed gear/anchors yourself before trusting them! Have you climbed at Split Rock? Drop a comment on your favorite route or tag your favorite climbing partner below! 👇 #thebetatripper #bayareaclimbing #marinclimbers #ringmountain #splitrock @bayareaclimberscoalition taken in Corte Madera, California by @thebetatripper
0
2 months ago
Download
×

Download all media on this page

Photos Videos
back to up