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Tom Peckitt

@tompeckitt

2.6K

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Battling to sort out the work, life and rocks balance
Supported by @scarpa_uk @coreclimbing @frictionlabs @climbskinspain @citybloc

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Memento (8b+)

Words cannot describe how happy I am to top out this iconic world class bloc yesterday. I’ve dreamed of doing this ever since seeing the film all those years ago but never actually imagined I’d ever be able to.

You can probably tell a bit from my reaction how happy I am…and still buzzing today, if not a little hungover🍻🥳

@scarpa_uk @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @climbskinspain @citybloc taken in Silvapark Galtür by @tompeckitt

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4 years ago

Amandla (8b+)
Throw back to rocklands 2016 and some footage of a painfully close attempt. Did this twice in a row and had to go back to finish it off, not without slicing the end of my finger off first. Worth the pain. Dream line. by @tompeckitt

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9 years ago

Cypher (8b)

This iconic boulder needs no introduction. Very happy to finally see it off at the ripe old age of 41, feeling stronger than ever. I’ve essentially being doing laps on this thing since October, dropping the post crux bump, when it should be over, four times! It’s been a bit of a mental rather than physical battle.

I’ve had a very a long history with this thing. First tried in 2007, I found the start fine but couldn’t wrap my head around the leg flick and coordination as it was so foreign to me.

Never very good at projecting or commitment, I’d have a flurry of sessions in the years that followed, probably max 3-5 per season, but often skipping seasons with multi year gaps. This was mainly due to motivation, being terrible at projecting and quite frankly laziness.

Fast forward to 2019, and on a random session I stuck the leg flick crux, eyed up the next small bump move, and pinged off a shitty foothold as I went. With that frustration (thinking it was over), I lost interested again and stupidly didn’t return until last season - about 5/6 years later.

The thing that put me off most was the frustration of things that weren’t just climbing - typical hard grit really. Conditions on this are so important and being a weekend warrior, lining up perfect days was so hard. I would go on a very cold but sunny days and the rock would bake making it almost impossible, or I’d go on an overcast day hike up there and it’d rain. So I’d have many completely wasted trips up there. My skin also never lasted long, getting max 8-10 goes, before packing up for the slog home.

So this season I decided enough was enough and to persevere. Ive found a really good rhythm of work, rest and training recently so to turn up to the boulder first session this season and stick the crux was great. Then for it to feel so consistent was super satisfying.

Thanks to all of those I’ve played on this with over the years. Some really fun times. And thanks to @eesh_kebab for the support and tears (of joy I think) yesterday as I topped it 🥺. by @tompeckitt

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a year ago

One Summer in Paradise (8b)

Another iconic Magic Wood boulder. The moves aren’t too bad individually but it’s an absolute pump fest with a delicate and savagely crimpy heartbreaking end.

Spent the session with @katie_malinowski @jessewphoto @thomasbrandtkjaer and @liv_gyllenborg and just had really good fun. The benefit of a long boulder is you get to do lots of climbing. Positive vibes all round.

I was ecstatic to do it in my last possible try of my last day. A lot of the satisfaction came from a super healthy, fun and positive mental game which can be really hard to put yourself in on a trip.

It rained over night, and that morning, so I thought there was no way it was going to be dry but arrived at noon and it was pretty much perfect. It felt like climbing that day was a bonus and I couldn’t wait to try.

I warmed up, refreshing my sequence, and started having goes. After a nasty dry fire on the first go, second go I got to the crux end move but was too gassed and opened up a bloody hole in my right ring finger.

After long rests and some precise superglue work to patch up the hole, third and fourth goes saw me climb past the very last crux and dropped the easy last move to the finishing jug twice! I couldn’t believe it.

Yes, it was a bit frustrating in the moment but I was actually really happy with how I’d performed, having fun, and took a lot of satisfaction from that. I mentally turned off from clinging to the send and I would have been happy to walk away feeling pleased with my last day.

I thought I’d have one more burn but expectation was low. I rested ages, I was pretty exhausted and my tip wasn’t really staying together anymore with the glue. Feeling calm and with nothing to loose, I floated through and found myself topping out (and leaving part of my finger tip on one of the holds).

Such a fun and rewarding experience. I wish I could apply that mentality to all my sessions but I also get frustrated as fuck like most people when things aren’t happening 🤣

@scarpa_uk @coreclimbing @core.board @mountainbootuk @frictionlabs @climbskinspain taken in Magic wood, Switzerland by @tompeckitt

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17 hours ago

Pura Vida (8a+)

After doing Steppenwolf in a rush, as I thought it was going to rain, I was now warmed up and the rain was fortunately holding off. I wondered down to have a go at this. A sound German couple were just packing up but saw I was solo, took pity, and leant me their pad as they moved on.

Having had a brief play in summer 2022, but couldn’t remember any beta, I spent half an hour working out a sequence. I rested for a few minutes and first pull on took it to the top. A quality afternoon of crimping in a magical place!

@coreclimbing @core.board @scarpa_uk @frictionlabs @climbskinspain @mountainbootuk taken in Magic wood, Switzerland by @tompeckitt

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6 days ago

Steppenwolf (8b) 🐺

Iconic Magic Wood boulder and for good reason - it’s absolutely amazing. Beautiful clean line, perfect rock, crimpy, powerful, but also more technical and precise than it first lets on.

Tried a bit in Summer 2022 but was way too warm for me. I vowed never to try again in bad conditions. Had a go again at the start of this trip, and got very close in a handful of goes, but again it was over 20 degrees, too warm and frustrating.

So I left for a bit, which was a really good strategic move. I came back and it was much fresher, managing to do it second go. Conditions are so important for me in Magic - not strong enough for them not to matter. Really impressed that people do this and other problems here in bad conditions.

On the send I was racing the forecast rain and could feel a few drops hitting, so I rushed my warm up (which is usually veeeery long nowadays) and totally pumped out for the top. A mate said…’looked like you’d be shot in both legs’ 🤣.

Really nice to bump into @liv_gyllenborg and meet @thomasbrandtkjaer and spend a few days with them. Effort to Thomas for sending later that day 💪

@scarpa_uk @coreclimbing @core.board @mountainbootuk @climbskinspain @frictionlabs taken in Magic wood, Switzerland by @tompeckitt

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7 days ago

Impromptu Swizzy trip 2026 (Magic and Gottardo)…didn’t disappoint. Photo dump of some core memories 🇨🇭🍄❤️🌲

Cover photo by @jessewphoto taken in Magic wood, Switzerland by @tompeckitt

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9 days ago

Sofa surfer (8a)

A Magic Wood classic from yesterday. Amazing problem and movement but shame it’s so polished. We barely had enough pads so didn’t really contemplate the top out unfortunately.

Felt completely destroyed from the day before, lugging pads around the forest and climbing a lot beforehand but thankfully managed to piece this together quickly yesterday evening as darkness was closing in. Cheers to @katie_malinowski and @jessewphoto for the spots, pads and video - was fun trying with you guys.

@coreclimbing @core.board @scarpa_uk @frictionlabs @climbskinspain taken in Magic wood, Switzerland by @tompeckitt

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12 days ago

Steppenwolf 8b & Pura Vida 8a+

Finally a day of good conditions in Magic Wood! Having climbed here in summer in the past, I vowed to only come back in good conditions. That’s wasn’t going too well at the start of the trip as it was over 20 degrees and little wind. So I left to Gottard for a couple days and arrived back to magic yesterday evening.

Today was the first day I’ve climbed here when stuff actually felt kinda grippy. Still not perfect but massive improvement from anything I’ve had before (about 17 degrees today with a breeze).

Started at Steppenwolf and rushed my warm up as the rain was due any time. Fired it off in a couple of goes, but got the shakes so bad on the top as I’d powered out.

Then moved on to Pura Vida. Tried that very briefly in summer 2022 but too sweaty for me. So I spent 30mins working out some beta today and fired that first go. Wanted to try One Summer but I don’t have enough pads unfortunately (thanks to the kind German couple who left me one of theirs for Pura 🤟)

Pretty pleased with the day and feeling honed in to executing things. So much of a trip is much more than the psychical ability itself. Tactics, decisions, weather, rest, skin, psychology….it all comes into play. Frustrating as fuck when things don’t work out (as often the case) but super rewarding when it does!

@scarpa_uk @mountainbootuk @coreclimbing @core.board @frictionlabs @climbskinspain taken in Magic wood, Switzerland by @tompeckitt

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13 days ago

Suworow (7b+) - San Gottardo.
Definitely up there with the best 7b+s anywhere! Also the landscape in Gottardo is just breathtakingly beautiful.

Only had a few climbing days and they were all trying hard things so today was about sampling the area a bit. Warmed up on Cafelat e Campari (8a) with a cruxy first dynamic move - had my puffer jacket on just playing with the start then surprised myself by hitting it and having to climb the rest of the long boulder in my big jacket 🤣

Spent a couple of days in Magic Wood but decided to bail as it was a bit too warm for me for harder stuff. Had a frustrating session on Steppenwolf where it was purely conditions letting me down so didn’t want to keep doing that. So landed in gottardo for a couple of days.

Had a great first session on Hazel Grace - conditions were perfect yesterday evening, linking it all except the tricky first move. I’ve trashed myself a bit now though so will need a rest then decide whether to stick here or back to magic for my last few days. Tough decisions for first world problems haha 🫣

@scarpa_uk @coreclimbing @core.board @mountainbootuk @frictionlabs @climbskinspain by @tompeckitt

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17 days ago

Diary of a Mad Dam (8aish) - first ascent

A Scottish bouldering day-hit took me to Glen Lednock with @suzyla5. Met up with my buddy Andy e with Dunc and @gareth.harris. Quality times were had!

First tackled Inhibited Mania - a mega 7c through the obvious line of the roof from sitting.

Dunc then kindly showed me a known proj coming in from the right avoiding the arête then joining the end of Inhibited. It starts with some tricky undercut moves followed by a class toe hook section and a big span to finish. Definitely many other beta options. Not sure on grade, worked out the beta and dispatched first go - but somewhere in the 8a range I presume.

It’s definitely got me psyched for some Scottish trips in the future. Cheers all for a class day.

*combined credit with Dunc for the name (he was thinking Diary of a Madman) which I tweaked slightly 😉

@coreclimbing @core.board @scarpa_uk @mountainbootuk @frictionlabs @climbskinspain taken in Glen Lednock by @tompeckitt

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a month ago

A few pics of Verna (8a flash) some weeks ago courtesy of Andy E. Been out once or twice since but a bit warm for harder stuff. Got a decent selection lined up for the cooler temps arriving and my next outings amongst my hectic schedule. Managed Drums in the Deep (8a) in wales a couple of weekends ago in less than ideal temps which is up there with the best in the area. Can’t wait for the season to arrive!

@scarpa_uk @coreclimbing @mountainbootuk @frictionlabs @climbskinspain by @tompeckitt

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2 months ago