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ZdC Studio

@zdc.studio

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Creative direction · Cultural research · Education
From insight to concepts, products and communication.
🖊️[email protected]
📌Milano

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Over the past few weeks, I have spent more time in Venice than I ever had before. I returned for the exhibitions, but what keeps me there often happens between visits: people meeting, talking, working. Behind its almost unreal beauty, Venice retains the tangible presence of those who live in it and keep it going.

In Italian Hours, Henry James called it “the city of conversation.” He described voices carrying across the canals, with no sound of wheels to drown them out. I thought of his words while visiting The Only True Protest Is Beauty, the Fondazione Dries Van Noten exhibition bringing together art, fashion, design, jewellery and material experimentation.

Palazzo Pisani Moretta makes this encounter both compelling and difficult. Its rooms already have a history and a powerful visual presence. What I appreciated most were the dialogues between the photographs, the garments and the palazzo’s paintings.

The exhibition has its surprises: iconic pieces, half-open doors offering glimpses of precious objects, works placed where you would not expect to find them. But walking through such a vast palazzo also made me think about how difficult it is to sustain a rhythm throughout a visit. Christian Lacroix, Comme des Garçons and Codognato recur often, lending continuity to the exhibition, though at times they left me with a sense that the balance had shifted too far towards them.

It is a delicate curatorial balance. A place with such a strong identity can reveal unexpected aspects of the works it holds, but it can also overwhelm them. I am curious to see how future exhibitions will inhabit these spaces and what relationship they will build with the palazzo.

My congratulations to Dries Van Noten and Patrick Vangheluwe for establishing the Fondazione and opening Palazzo Pisani Moretta to the public.

If you would like to see The Only True Protest Is Beauty, make time for it soon: it closes on 4 October.

#FondazioneDriesVanNoten #PalazzoPisaniMoretta #VeniceArt #CuratorialPractice taken in Palazzo Pisani Moretta by @zdc.studio

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3 days ago

With this collection, Louise Trotter made a convincing case for fashion’s future: one rooted in formal and material research. Fabrics are tested, techniques pushed further, and forms refuse to settle for what already exists. That’s creativity worth the name.

The clothes lead, with accessories just as compelling. What stays with me is the sense of possibility in the materials: ideas made tangible rather than simply declared.

#BottegaVeneta #BottegaVenetaSS27 #MaterialResearch #TextileInnovation #LouiseTrotter taken in Milan, Italy by @zdc.studio

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6 days ago

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11 days ago

As Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa wrote in The Leopard:“If we want everything to stay as it is, everything must change.”
It was only a matter of time.
We are no longer in the era of invention. We are in the era of reconfiguration.
This broader constellation - re-work, re-edition, re-issue, re-archive, re-loved, re-sale, re-constructed - is not just aesthetic. It is a grammar of the present. A structural tendency.
But what exactly is being re-authored, and on top of which structure?

In Liquid Life, Zygmunt Bauman describes a world in which stability dissolves into constant recombination, where the new is no longer produced but assembled, and where value lies in circulation rather than permanence.
From this perspective, what is happening with Zara and John Galliano is less paradoxical than it appears. It is, in fact, perfectly coherent.
On one hand, the language suggests awareness, a system that seems to metabolise its own critiques. On the other, the underlying mechanics remain intact. Capital acquires symbolic value, absorbs it, and redistributes it at scale.
What once stood as exception becomes input.
As Bauman reminds us, this sense of freedom is inseparable from instability.
 In this case, the gesture reveals its nature: not a rupture of the system, but its refinement, a change that does not transform the system, but allows it to keep functioning.

#fashionanalysis #fashionculture
#contemporaryculture #zara #johngalliano by @zdc.studio

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7 months ago

With Blazy, Chanel changed its attitude. Forget dreamlike, far-flung sets: the focus is back on real people. Chanel returns to a modern, democratic kind of desirability, because in Blazy’s view, everyone can find their ideal wardrobe within the house. Staging a show in the New York subway, in a city that somehow belongs to us all, is the ultimate coherent move. Chapeau.

#CHANELMetiersdArt #ChanelShow #Le19M #ChanelbyMatthiewBlazy #BlazyStorm taken in New York City by @zdc.studio

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10 months ago

Marni has officially announced the appointment of Meryll Rogge as Creative Director.

There’s no doubt that 2025 is a good year for Meryll Rogge. Winner of the prestigious ANDAM Fashion Award, the Belgian designer, who graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2008, honed her skills at Dries Van Noten and Marc Jacobs before launching her own label in 2020. She was also named a finalist for the 2025 Woolmark Prize, a key recognition that highlights her growing influence on the international stage.

In a recent conversation with Vogue, Rogge subtly underscored both the importance of wearability and the fact that her company is entirely women-led: “Right now, we’re an all-women team, and we wear our own clothes every day.”

Her Fall/Winter 2025 collection continued to push boundaries, blending conceptual artistry with playful experimentation. It featured references to Gordon Matta-Clark, layers that evoked the charm of doll-sized dressing, and vibrant color palettes. One standout detail was her use of vintage wallpaper prints, sourced from the legendary Priem shop in Ghent, her hometown.

Rogge’s work is defined by nonconformity, a sense of joy, and an uncanny ability to transform artistic and intellectual research into compelling fashion narratives. With such a distinct creative vision, we look forward — with great curiosity — to the chapters she’ll write next in Marni’s history, hoping they will be just as bold and memorable as those of her predecessors.

Here is a selection of images showcasing her work. by @zdc.studio

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a year ago

I won’t sugarcoat it: I would have loved to see it live, to touch those pieces, to watch the fabrics move, to truly understand how they were brought to life. With this debut Artisanal collection for Maison Margiela by Glenn Martens, I was instantly struck by curiosity. I kept thinking how much future generations of designers could gain by studying the construction of each single look.

Even from afar, the atmosphere spoke of dark 19th-century romanticism. Martens’ vision felt almost phantasmagorical, like a dream teetering on the edge of a nightmare. As a metaphor for the times we live in, it also carried a post-apocalyptic undertone: a sense of excess, discomfort, and instability that echoes the unease of our present moment.

It was dramatic, yes, but also richly opulent and breathtakingly handcrafted. All I can do is offer my heartfelt applause and say congratulations to Glenn and his entire team.

@maisonmargiela @otb @glennmartens by @zdc.studio

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a year ago

With the presentation of Balenciaga’s Haute Couture 54 collection, Demna bids farewell to the house, passing the baton to Pierpaolo Piccioli and fully embracing his new role as Creative Director of Gucci. A heartfelt goodbye, surrounded by friends, muses, and his signature archetypes, closing a decade-long chapter that radically transformed the legacy of the Spanish couturier who never believed in prêt-à-porter. Instead of music, the names of his team members filled the space, culminating in a tearful finale to the sound of Sade’s “No Ordinary Love.” Good luck, Demna. by @zdc.studio

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a year ago

Step inside the pages of Chanel Haute Couture, ahead of its September release.
 During yesterday’s presentation of the Chanel Haute Couture FW 2025–26 collection, guests were gifted an early copy of the latest book curated and published by @sofiacoppola through her imprint, Important Flowers.

At just fifteen, Sofia Coppola began a summer internship at the Chanel studio in Paris, having left her family home in Northern California. That formative experience sparked a lifelong connection with the House, one that has evolved through decades of collaboration. The most recent result is this luxurious and evocative volume, where Coppola brings her signature aesthetic of collage and visual storytelling to craft a personal history of Chanel Haute Couture.
Spanning 450 pages, the book reveals the story of Chanel’s haute couture through rare sketches, intimate photographs of clients wearing @chanelofficial creations, runway imagery, and archival ephemera. It explores the eras of the House’s iconic artistic directors (Gabrielle Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld, and Virginie Viard) alongside their creative teams, legendary clientele, and era-defining models, all captured by celebrated fashion photographers.

More than a book, Chanel Haute Couture is a visual archive and cultural document, an ode to the artistry that has shaped generations of designers.

My favorite images? 14-year-old Sofia wearing Chanel Haute Couture in Vogue Paris (1986) (1) and Devon Aoki in Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1999 (2)
What are yours?

Image sources: Susie Bubble and Sofia Coppola Instagram account by @zdc.studio

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a year ago

Mert and Marcus + Marie Chaix
Vogue Italia set 2018

🍋

#archive #zdcstdioarchive by @zdc.studio

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a year ago

f there's something we truly enjoy in our work, it's creating color palettes for our clients.
As we wait for the September presentations and with RTW fashion weeks behind us, we can already say that lemon yellow - with its subtle shades leaning toward green - is shaping up to be one of the key color references for the SS26 season.
Brands like @ysl , @celine , @jacquemus , @paulsmithdesign , @prada , Zegna and @amiparis have all embraced it in their collections. And if we had to bet on the perfect shade, our pick would be Pantone 3-0746.

When life gives you lemons, make lemonade! 🍋

#zdcstudio #ColorTrends #FashionColors #SS26 #TrendForecasting #ColorPalette #DesignInspiration #FashionDesign #FashionIndustry #LuxuryFashion #FashionWeek #StyleTrends #CreativeProcess #DesignThinking #WorkWeLove #LemonYellow #ColorMood 🍋🍋🍋🍋 by @zdc.studio

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a year ago

A smart start… but does this collection truly warrant all the collective excitement? Only time will tell. For now, a low-risk vision, heavy on styling and packed with accessories seems like the perfect formula for cashing in.

#SS26 #celine by @zdc.studio

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a year ago