Instagram story viewer> @climbingmachines> Posts

climbingmachines

@climbingmachines

291

followers

1

following

LA based. Improve your technique, get stronger, become a climbing machine.
Online coaching also available. DM for info.

POSTS STORIES REELS TAGGED

It's time to address the crisis of unawareness of both the body and the mind among the general population.

The incredible nuance of climbing at your limit requires a level of focus and body awareness that must be intentionally cultivated in order to be applicable at will. It's unreasonable to expect to move well through high physical tension when you have never paid real full attention to how you walk, how you sit down, how you move about your daily life. This gap of body awareness must be filled in order to have any chance at consistently performing well on the wall.

Unfortunately this is only half of the problem. Energy flows where attention goes. If your mind is scattered on the wall then so is your energy, never being channeled effectively enough to direct the body towards peak performance. Again it's unreasonable to expect to have full control of your mind on the wall when you don't pay attention to the movements of your mind throughout the day.

The bright side is your body and mind are with you wherever you go. You have the option to be aware at all times.

#climbing #rockclimbing #bouldering by @climbingmachines

37

4

3 years ago

We often think of mobility in terms of just being able to get into certain positions on the wall, but what's often left out is the importance of being able to generate substantial force at the extreme ends of our range of motion. I would say MOST climbers are lacking adequate active mobility and even moreso lacking in the ability to create tension through these positions. I'll make a follow-up post to address my favorite methods of working on these concepts. #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #trainingforclimbing #climbingmachines by @climbingmachines

75

1

5 years ago

You will be what you tell yourself you are. Tracking progress via numbers (grades, strength) is critically important but doesn't even come close to displaying all necessary components of performing at a high level, especially in a sport as complex as rock climbing. I would need a book to talk about all the different psychological battles I and everyone I've coached has had to overcome, but to keep it short for now... believe in yourself and apply what you have worked so hard to achieve with absolute confidence. You'll will never reach your full potential otherwise.

A crazy sleepy man once said "I'll see it when I believe it". I have to go now.

#bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #climbingmachines by @climbingmachines

72

1

5 years ago

Note how much easier the foot transition looks in the second video compared to the first. When a foothold is too far to reach statically, use the previous foothold or the wall to create momentum by pushing in the opposite direction (video 2). Climbers often resort to pulling with the arms which in most cases moves them further from the target foothold (video 1). #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #trainingforclimbing by @climbingmachines

41

0

5 years ago

In about 30 minutes this went from looking like flailing legs and cutting feet on almost every move to what you see here. The benefit of being strong and flexible is that you just need to be focused on the right thing at the right time in order to successfully do a climb well. However the big downside to being strong before knowing proper climbing technique is that you learn to rely on that strength to get you up the wall, only to soon find yourself unnecessarily plateaued way below your limit. Strength should be an auxiliary to proper movement and body tension. #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #trainingforclimbing #moonboard by @climbingmachines

41

2

6 years ago

When trying to break a bad habit you really need to be mindful in the moment the habit tends to present itself, which in this case is not having the lower body properly loaded at the start of a movement. The first move in the second clip is an excellent example of this stage of learning, as you can see he clearly takes an extra second to make sure the right leg is loaded before initiating the movement. With more repetition this will soon be automatic, freeing attention to work on other bad habits like preventing the flagging leg from drifting away from the wall as seen during the second move. #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #trainingforclimbing by @climbingmachines

31

0

6 years ago

Sometimes you know exactly what to do and how to do it, but the confidence isn't there to back it up. It's crucial to be able to identify this scenario in order to avoid needlessly modifying movement or beta to compensate for something that is purely mental. Temporary fixes lead to development of bad habits, and the longer a problem isn't addressed the harder it is to break in the future. #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #trainingforclimbing #moonboard by @climbingmachines

38

0

6 years ago

Here's a sample climb on the new @climbingmachines 50 degree training wall -- now open for sessions! I think I had one big error on this ascent, let me know if you can spot it. #bouldering #climbing #trainingforclimbing by @climbingmachines

32

4

6 years ago

Can you identify all of the components of a dynamic movement? Here's a great example of what it looks like to use your whole body to your advantage to efficiently maximize distance on moves that look "too big". The next time you want to say a move is too big for you, ask yourself if you're using every tool you can to generate movement towards the target hold. #climbing #bouldering #rockclimbing #trainingforclimbing #moonboard by @climbingmachines

28

0

6 years ago

One of the easiest ways to identify whether or not a movement is being done optimally is to check how much drift is occurring after hitting the target hold (note: this is one of many factors that need to be considered). While it may actually help in rare cases, most of the time the goal should be to prevent it from happening as much as possible. Post- movement drift is almost always a waste of time and energy as it results in over-gripping to stay on the wall, usually a result of bad positioning upon contact with the target hold or loss of tension at some point during or after the movement. Here's an excellent example of proper positioning and body tension through full movements. #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #trainingforclimbing by @climbingmachines

36

1

6 years ago

When dealing with a foothold that seems too far to load properly, direct the initial phase of your movement toward the foothold THEN engage in the direction of your target hold. This will drastically increase your odds of maintaining body tension at the end-phase of the movement. #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #trainingforclimbing #moonboard by @climbingmachines

43

0

6 years ago

Some tips for when you're unnecessarily cutting feet or drifting/rotating during a movement #bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #trainingforclimbing by @climbingmachines

12

0

6 years ago