Instagram story viewer> @daleremsberg> Posts

Mountain Guide

@daleremsberg

63.3K

followers

2098

following

Supported by Arcteryx-La Sportiva-Sterling Ropes-Petzl 🙏

POSTS STORIES REELS TAGGED

Twisty rope?😳
.
Lots of people have really twisted ropes. And often the cause is unknown!
.
Well here is one way you get twists. By threading through the rappel rings incorrectly which is causing lots of twists! When the rope rolls over the ring under slight tension it messes things up😬
.
✔️Make sure to run the ropes straight through and check how the rings will hang when loaded prior to threading!
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Eldorado Canyon State Park - Colorado Parks and Wildlife by @daleremsberg

255

15

a day ago

Dropped your device?😳
.
Yes you can use a Munter hitch but it will twist up your ropes and be hard to do multiple rappels🤪
.
This is a pretty simple set up with gear you likely have with you. I end up using this several times a year after a dropped device etc etc…
.
Practice setting this up in a controlled setting and don’t forget your hands free back up. I prefer the auto block!
.
✔️Have you ever had to improvise a rappel set up?
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in The Flatirons by @daleremsberg

3k

44

5 days ago

Connecticut Hitch🧐
.
A great hitch for anchoring your belayer to a small tree or rock pinch etc….
.
But like many hitches in climbing it can look correct but not be!!!! Practice Practice Practice…..
.
✔️Do you know how to tie it?
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Rifle Mountain Park by @daleremsberg

278

22

7 days ago

Tool Match 👍
.
The thumb match is my preferred method but there are two other main ways people match tools. The shoulder stow and the teeth match!
.
The teeth match seems to more popular among super high end mixed climbers as it allows for more shaking opportunities and the shoulder switch is an older method but still a good ole standby!
.
✔️What is your preferred method to match tools?
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Kananaskis Country by @daleremsberg

537

13

9 days ago

Ground anchor 💪🏻
.
We see it all the time! Ice climbing belayers way back away from the climb which is good but without being anchored! Which is bad🤡
.
You don’t need a full on anchor much of the time but you should try to find something to keep the belayer in place!
.
✔️Are you guilty? I know I’am but I try to avoid this trap
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Kananaskis Country by @daleremsberg

545

11

10 days ago

Lead with the heal💡
.
A simple but effective way to move laterally is to lead with your heel!
.
Easier to do and much less likely to snag those expensive pants😉
.
✔️How many holes do you have in your ice climbing pants from poor footwork?
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Rifle Mountain Park by @daleremsberg

5k

24

11 days ago

V-Thread the hard way🤪
.
I do carry a V-thread tool and my preferred one is the J-Snare!
.
But sometimes you drop it or sometimes you might have forgotten it. Either way it’s nice to have a back up method!
.
✔️Have you built and thread without a specific tool for it?
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Ouray Ice Park by @daleremsberg

646

10

12 days ago

Rope anchors🧐
.
I don’t use the tope that often as a guides as we tend to block lead but in this case I was at the top so it didn’t matter and…. I didn’t have any material left so I had to use the rope🤪
.
It’s an easy skill but you should practice it a few times on the ground as there are few subtle things to figure out!
.
✔️Have you ever forgotten your anchor material?
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Eldorado Canyon State Park - Colorado Parks and Wildlife by @daleremsberg

340

12

13 days ago

Plate defeat😬
.
If ropes enter the device at significantly different angles that can cause as situation where the plate will not grab both ropes. If one is weighted that may cause the other not to be blocked. Of course you want your brake hand on all the time but we all know the reality of belaying two ropes at once🧐
.
Gathering them into a single focal point can help alleviate that issue and makes your job as the belayer much easier!
.
✔️Have you ever experienced plate defeat?
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Field, British Columbia by @daleremsberg

680

40

14 days ago

Quad for the win💪🏻
.
This little video shows one of the reason why quads are so nice and likely my favorite ice anchor currently. I’m sure that will change🤪
.
You can easily see that while the right persons moves around it’s not affecting the left person and that right there is why the quad is so good!!!🎉
.
✔️What do you have against the quad?
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Super Secret Underground UFO lab by @daleremsberg

763

58

a month ago

It’s ice season🥶
.
Well at least there is some cool air in the mountains. Bring the water and the colder temps!
.
So no matter which is your stronger hand the left has a distinct disadvantage. That disadvantage is that when you stop rotating your hand is on the top of the screw so if you have a loose placement it’s much easier to drop😳
.
With the right hand you end up with your hand below the screw so if it falls out before it’s fully grabbed it’s much easier to catch it and recover!
.
✔️Are you as good with your weak hand placing screws?
✔️The ice is not always good on your strong hand side. Practice them weaknesses folks!
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Super Secret Underground UFO lab by @daleremsberg

226

6

a month ago

Via Maria Anchor final anchor7🇮🇹
.
Many of you did not like this single stanchion! I decided to girth hitch it to lower the leverage and I also found an ok back up cam to create a 2 piece anchor!
.
It seemed there were two very strong opinions on these anchors. One was that they are inspected and strong. I’m not so sure! They are very old and talking to local guides they did not have any information on how they were inspected. They might be just fine but there is no way of knowing!
.
I decided to back them up and the criticism to do so is just fine. I’ll take it 💯 of the time! 😘
.
.
✔️The Dolomites are amazing! The people our welcoming and the landscape is so so good!
.
#rockclimbing #mountaineering #climbing #climbinglife #myjhmgstory taken in Passo Pordoi by @daleremsberg

203

19

a month ago