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Ethan Berman

@ethan_berman_

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Climbing high, searching for solid ground.
@arcteryxab
@blueiceclimbing

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I’m honored to have an article featured in @alpinistmag 87 this fall. Like many others, I had a cathartic experience when I stumbled upon a piece of mountain writing for the first time. That chance encounter happened to be with Alpinist Magazine when I was 23.

This essay went through many iterations over the years. It has grown and evolved with me, rustling from a deep sleep at times when I needed it, but mostly laying dormant until I was ready to fully commit. All in, heart and soul.

So much love to the family and tribe who have shared this journey with me and continue to do so. Thank you @dstorm8000 for supporting my vision and helping to get ‘er done with the clock ticking.

I am proud of myself for feeling medium-comfortable putting something deeply personal out into the world. But as a friend told me, it’s not the actual person that a reader is thinking about, it’s the story. I hope “Tiny Changes” resonates with someone out there.

As the stack of journals I’ve been carrying around for months can attest, writing takes a lot of writing!

#aacgram #nepal #rolwaling #alpinist by @ethan_berman_

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2 years ago

We are excited to share that we are back in the Hunza Valley after eight wild days on Ultar Sar’s Southeast “Hidden” Pillar.

Often climbing at night, we felt the pull of a growing moon, illuminating the mountain above as the house lights of the Nagar Valley faded below. Pushed beyond our individual abilities, we found collective strength and experienced the richness of climbing as one.

We feel deep gratitude for the tireless effort of our team from @pakistan_higher_ground (Ghafoor, Usman, Wajahat, Rehmat, and others) and are thankful for the support from @johnlauchlanaward @americanalpine @mazamas1894

Shooting the Moon (3,100m, WI4 M5). June 6-13.

This one will take many flip-flop hours to process… taken in Hunza Valley by @ethan_berman_

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a year ago

Three climbers from three different backgrounds came together around one obsession and ended it with the 2026 @pioletsdor

Ethan Berman, Maarten van Haeren and Sebastián Pelletti returned to Ultar Sar after their 2024 failure, learned from the mountain, and came back to finally climb its long-unfinished 3,100-metre Hidden Pillar.

Six days of alpine-style climbing. Five hanging bivouacs. More than 70 rappels. And a line that had rejected climbers for nearly three decades.

They called it “Shooting the Moon.” In 2026, it became a Piolet d’Or ascent.

Read the full story at Sherpa Legend.
sherpalegend.com

#ultarsar #ethanberman #maartenvanhaeren #sabastianpalletti #sherpalegend by @ethan_berman_

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a month ago

The well goes a whole lot deeper than I currently understand: That bout of extra strength, that third burn, that “fitness lap” that ended at the chains.

A flash of brilliance.

Or a savage bargain I didn’t know I had made.

Days later, the pain runs hot, electric, starting at the base of my neck, shooting through my trapezius and onto the deltoid, tricep, forearm, and back of hand. I struggle to move. I struggle to think. Is it another dark tunnel ahead? I close my eyes. Time to start walking.

@arcteryxab @blueiceclimbing by @ethan_berman_

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a month ago

Spent April bailing in these beautiful mountains with @sebapelletti. What more you want?

@arcteryxab @blueiceclimbing #canadianrockies #aacgram by @ethan_berman_

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4 months ago

Another Field day with @sebapelletti as we wait for conditions to settle in the alpine. We climbed the upper pitches of Nasty Habit before establishing a new pitch to the right, Road Soda (M6 WI6 R, 35m), which climbed a thinly iced up corner to a rock roof and smear above. The lack of battery-powered protection kept me honest as I stood on small ice blobs below the roof, trying to excavate enough loose rock to find something solid enough to take a piece of gear. I didn’t, so cracked a cold one and started the engine. We finished by climbing twisted, making for a solid day of sky cragging!

P1: Seba on pitch 3 of Nasty Habit
P2-3: Nasty Habit (pitch 4)
P4-5: Road Soda
P6: Twisted
P7: Topo

@arcteryxab @blueiceclimbing #canadianrockies by @ethan_berman_

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6 months ago

Finally breached the castle of Mt. Wilson, a 1,500m road-side alpine wall, a winter climber’s El Capitan.

Experiences like this, so close to home, are some of my most cherished. To be so consumed with the rush of life, only to be rattled to awareness by the contours of a steep pillar of glistening ice, the building burn in the forearms and the wind-whipped spindrift stinging the face…Wake up!

The numerous pitches of steep, sun-baked ice on “Suntori” did not disappoint, and a blustery descent in the dark (sans summit) kept @grantwstewart and I guessing until we stumbled back onto the parkway.

@arcteryx.alberta @blueiceclimbing #canadianrockies by @ethan_berman_

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8 months ago

Nice outing a couple days ago with @ethanberman1 on Polar Circus with The Pencil.
#arcteryx #accesstheinaccessible #americanalpineclub #alpineclubofcanada taken in Banff National Park by @ethan_berman_

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8 months ago

Rad to see this article published in Rock & Snow 109. Thank you @kaoruintokyo for bringing it to fruition!

Kaoru told me that “Ultar holds a special significance for Japanese people as it is where Tsuneo Hasegawa, the legendary Japanese climber known for the first winter solo ascents of the three great north faces of the European Alps, died in 1991.”

Japanese climbers recorded the first ascent of the peak in ‘96 and Giri-Giri boys Fumitaka Ichimura and Yusuke Sato made the best attempt at the Hidden Pillar in 2011 before we completed the route last summer.

#rockandsnow @arcteryx.alberta @blueiceclimbing @americanalpine @johnlauchlanaward @mazamas1894 by @ethan_berman_

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9 months ago

January at Big Choss

@andre.sanc9 @arcteryx.alberta @blueiceclimbing #canadianrockies by @ethan_berman_

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9 months ago

Climbing overhanging ice blobs…don’t pull too hard!

“Drama Queen” at the Stanley Headwall

#canadianrockies @arcteryx.alberta @blueiceclimbing @iceclimbing by @ethan_berman_

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10 months ago

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a year ago